Rear A arm ball joint - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 26th, 2010, 07:38 PM
DesertRat
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Bryan Barnes
95 D90 2.8TGV
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Rear A arm ball joint

Replacing the rear A arm ball joint and all the bushings. I was able to get all the bolts/nuts
loose surprisingly easily but I'm stuck (literally) on the final point. Guess I should say I'm
removing the entire A arm. Everything is loose except the ball joint itself from the axle housing
bracket. The castle nut came off pretty easily. Is the ball joint threaded into the axle bracket?
I put the other 2 ends of the A arm back into their brackets and placed the jack under the end
that attaches to the ball joint end. I lifted the whole weight of the Rover about an inch off the jack stands
and it didn't let go. I've PB Blastered and hammered the crap out of it. Would welcome any suggestions
and an answer to the question above.

Thanks guys.
Bryan
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  #2  
Old November 26th, 2010, 08:06 PM
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Hit the housing with a big hammer. It is not threaded into the axle housing, it's just a regular big tie rod end. Rocking the truck forward and back can help too.
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Old November 26th, 2010, 08:14 PM
DesertRat
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Bryan Barnes
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Thanks Kevin

Let the pounding continue.
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  #4  
Old November 27th, 2010, 04:06 AM
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Jamie Austin
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What i tend to do, is refit the large castle nut (only on a few turns,) then with the aid of a long bar or somesuch, smack the "end" of the threaded bit upwards, this usually free's it off (the nut stops the whole thing flying out, and protects the threaded part should you be just changing the axle.... so obviously if the ball joint is FUBAR'd anyway, you won't be worried about saving the threads on the end of it)

Like Kevin says, it's just a tapered fit, once it's been loosened it just comes out.
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Old November 27th, 2010, 07:48 AM
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You might try a traditional tie rod removal tool or "pickle fork." Usually about $10 at the auto parts store.
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Old November 27th, 2010, 09:25 AM
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Ball Joint

If you have the assembly off the truck and it was anything like mine, take it to a machine shop with a big honk'in press. I gave up after shop press tools, ball joint tools and lengthy beatings.

Basically it should be fixtured under a decent sized press and pushed out
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Old November 27th, 2010, 03:18 PM
DesertRat
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Bryan Barnes
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Rear A arm ball joint

Thanks guys. I ended up putting some pressure on it with the jack....just enough to start
to lighten it up on the jack stands. Then I followed Kevin's advise. Beat the sh*t out of the housing.
After a couple of minutes it finally let go.

Mark...I was able to tap the ball joint out the housing, but I will going to a machine shop
to press the new one in.

Now, on to sand blasting and chassis paint.

Thanks again.
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  #8  
Old November 27th, 2010, 03:33 PM
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Jamie Austin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Mark...I was able to tap the ball joint out the housing, but I will going to a machine shop
to press the new one in.

Top tip.... get some threaded bar, or a couple of bolts that fit the thread in the ball joint "holder" (later versions are M8 thread, earlier ones are some stupid imperial thread, can't remember what it is at the moment)

anyhow, screw in a couple of bolts, and offer the ball joint up over said bolts prior to pressing it into place, this makes sure that it goes in "square" over the holes, so that you can then insert the proper fixing bolts. nothing worse than pushing the ball joint in then finding it's out of line with the mounting holes.
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Old November 27th, 2010, 03:58 PM
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You guys are making this way too hard. Next time, loosen the castle nut so you see a gap. Leave the nut on. Before you loosen any other bolts, go driving around. Hit the brakes a few times. Done.
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Old November 27th, 2010, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s View Post
You guys are making this way too hard. Next time, loosen the castle nut so you see a gap. Leave the nut on. Before you loosen any other bolts, go driving around. Hit the brakes a few times. Done.
That's a good way to do it, but I think he was way past that point!
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