Re-Sleeve ing Rear Brake and Clutch Master Cylinder - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 22nd, 2006, 01:53 PM
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Steven Reed
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Re-Sleeve ing Rear Brake and Clutch Master Cylinder

After 3 clutch master failures and now I am on the 3rd failure on the right rear Drum brake cylinder, I am thinking that a resleeve ing option and then rebuilding - may be a better option than the genunine parts option.

Has anyone gone down that direction of resleeveing?

http://www.resleeve.com/sleeving.htm
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  #2  
Old June 22nd, 2006, 02:18 PM
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My only concern would be price, not quality. Normally that type of work is reserved for parts that are no longer available or prohibitively expensive. If they are good machinists, there theoretically wouldn't be any problems to worry about.

British Pacific shows new parts at $85.00 for the wheel cylinder and $59 for the clutch master. That would be hard to beat when you are talking about the work going into sleeving the originals. You need to disassemble, clean, set-up, bore, press in sleeve, then assemble it with the new $20 seal kit ($10 for the clutch master). And don't forget the downtime also while you are without the parts.... unless you have others available to part with.

Have you been using new cylinders? Rebuilt? or rebuilding yourself? How often do they fail?

-Hans
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  #3  
Old June 22nd, 2006, 02:39 PM
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Steven Reed
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Agreed, I have been buying Genunine Parts from Rovers North.

Have flushed the entire system twice (Castrol LMA) and still had 2 Clutch Cylinders fail within 13 months, and the Brake Cylinders on my rear 110 Drum Brakes that fail in about 8 month intervals.

I was approaching the problem from a longevity angle, hoping that the cylinders (seals) would last longer if the sleeve was Stainless as compared to the machined aluminum. I would pay more up front and avoid the down time and labor time (mine or a shop) if I can get the components to be in service longer.

Or..... am I seeing average failure rates and should just suck it up?

ALSO..... they quoted 85.00 for the Clutch and 75.00 for the Brake Cylinder for Resleeveing.

Thanks!

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Old June 22nd, 2006, 03:12 PM
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disc brake conversion . . .

I can't see why they are failing other than bad installs or a bad batch of parts. Are the wheel cylinders cast iron or alum?
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Old June 22nd, 2006, 04:32 PM
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OEM Cast Drums on the rear. I guess I should just go for the Disc replacement ........
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Old June 22nd, 2006, 04:38 PM
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You might look at the surface finish in the new parts. When I was working on forklifts the mfgrs would send us parts that had such a smooth, glass like finish in the bores that they wouldn't seal. We would always take the new cylinders apart and lightly hone them to break the glaze...parts life was much improved. When I rebuild LR stuff I typically glass bead the inside of the bores which also breaks the glaze and I have had no problems that way either....just make sure you clean everything well before reassembly.
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Old June 22nd, 2006, 05:03 PM
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Cast drums but cast iron wheel cylinders or alum wheel cylinders. Iron is much better.
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Old June 22nd, 2006, 07:50 PM
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Steve. Those prices really aren't bad at all for the work. Might be worth giving it a shot.

Those failure rates are definitely not average, far from it. And the castrol LMA is what is called for in the manual, correct?

-Hans
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Old June 23rd, 2006, 11:34 AM
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Ron, I thought the Master Brake and Brake Cylinders are always cast Aluminum? I just pulled them out of my old parts box and they look like aluminum....
Hans, Castrol LMA is the recommended fluid due to the rubber in the seals, so I have read on these and other boards.
Are there actually Iron Cast Brake Cylinders? Maybe that is my issue......
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Old June 23rd, 2006, 01:10 PM
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I have seen them in iron on other vehicles. Easy way to tell is to use a magnet. If it sticks it's iron, if not it's aluminum.

Also, on the failed cylinders. Are you having scoring on the inside of the cylinder bore or on the pistons? Are the seals noticeably damaged or hardened? Or does everything look ok, but fluid is still leaking out?

One thought is possibly heat damaging the seals somehow? Do you use your brakes a lot coming down the mountains or something that uses them unusually?

-Hans
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Old June 23rd, 2006, 01:11 PM
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I think the rear wheel cylinders can come in cast iron. I am pretty sure NAS 110 salisbury ones cross with Series III parts which I know come in iron. These last better, or at least should. FWIW . . .
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Old June 24th, 2006, 12:10 AM
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Checked and the Lucas OEM Brake cylinders are make of Aluminum, same with the Genuine Clutch Master Cylinder. I will take the old ones apart next week and check the condition of the bores.
Regarding Failure, they just start to leak slowly, evident on the inside of the tire. Mountain driving can test the limits of brakes, but I always use them sparingly, so they keep cool, utilizing the gearing of the transmission to manage speed coming down hill (that is a sure sign of a flatlander vacationing in Colorado, Brakes lights on all the time in the mountains)
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Old June 24th, 2006, 12:33 AM
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I kinda figured you were driving it right, but I had to ask :-)

-Hans
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