re-powder coating NAS 97 D 90 brush guard/ plastic winch cover - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 9th, 2016, 12:41 PM
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re-powder coating NAS 97 D 90 brush guard/ plastic winch cover

Can someone suggest how/who to handle the re- surfacing of my front brush guard? The original coating has lifted in a few places, especially the horizontal plates that connect it to the bumper. The truck is in MASS

Secondly, has anyone ever seen another D90 NAS with the factory WARN winch plastic cover still in place?
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  #2  
Old January 9th, 2016, 12:44 PM
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sand blast and powder coat
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no thanks whatever I tell you, you will low ball me
I would rather keep the parts in storage
good luck with your search
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  #3  
Old January 9th, 2016, 12:57 PM
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barry f
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The cover was an option. Bunch of people on here have them.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #4  
Old January 9th, 2016, 01:05 PM
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any recommendations for source in southern Mass?
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  #5  
Old January 9th, 2016, 01:06 PM
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Smile

or you can buy this one already done.. your in Orleans correct....
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no thanks whatever I tell you, you will low ball me
I would rather keep the parts in storage
good luck with your search
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  #6  
Old January 9th, 2016, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ron View Post
sand blast and powder coat
As long as there are no holes in the BB, that's the way to go. Though you could also go with a rattle can or linex type finish.

Those Warn plastic covers are rare as hens teeth.
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #7  
Old January 9th, 2016, 01:17 PM
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Jim Cheney
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I've got a cover in my basement, how is it supposed to be held on?
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  #8  
Old January 9th, 2016, 01:20 PM
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Thank you. I would like all the brush guard components to be in place. The truck is on Nantucket, and has been for the last 10 years or so.

------ Follow up post added January 9th, 2016 01:23 PM ------

The cover actually just snaps into place with a friction fit. The prior owner had a bungee cord holding it in place, but it lost elasticity and I have left it off. The bungee probably was not a bad idea.
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  #9  
Old January 9th, 2016, 03:11 PM
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Factory powder coat on the bumpers is very difficult to sandblast off. I would recommend having it burnt off, and then sand-blasted. Many larger sandblasting companies have an oven to burn off coating, it's just more efficient.

If you go the extra mile and galvanize the bumper, and then powder coat, it would be the last time you ever need to do it. It won't ever rust, and if the coating is don properly, it won't ever blister either. (NAS factory rear bumpers were all galvanized before coating)
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  #10  
Old January 9th, 2016, 04:39 PM
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Great. Thank you for the timely and well considered info. I will see if I can't pull this off as you describe.
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  #11  
Old January 9th, 2016, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDN38 View Post
Factory powder coat on the bumpers is very difficult to sandblast off. I would recommend having it burnt off, and then sand-blasted. Many larger sandblasting companies have an oven to burn off coating, it's just more efficient. If you go the extra mile and galvanize the bumper, and then powder coat, it would be the last time you ever need to do it. It won't ever rust, and if the coating is don properly, it won't ever blister either. (NAS factory rear bumpers were all galvanized before coating)
Nas bumpers were galvanized? You sure?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #12  
Old January 9th, 2016, 07:08 PM
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Yes, the rears were so far as I know. Just had the coating burned off a 110 rear bumper, and had to bust off some of the grave to repair one of the tubes. You can weld galvanized steel, but the zinc can compromise the weld, and there are also issues with the gasses with the zinc plume. Need to cut away part of the tube on the right and replace it due to a nasty dent.
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  #13  
Old January 9th, 2016, 07:46 PM
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barry f
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Anyone else know the answer to this? Mine didn't look like that after the coating was removed and I know people who had theirs dipped after burning the coating off.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #14  
Old January 9th, 2016, 08:48 PM
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David Frank
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Mine is, but I'm not the original owner. Either way, the PC chipped in a couple places and I've just been doing touch up spray.

Scott, that bumper is coming along nicely. It doesn't look nearly as bad now in just Rover Chrome, but it made a mighty fine spoiler on my rack! ;-)
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  #15  
Old January 9th, 2016, 10:25 PM
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barry f
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Anyone else?

I can't see them galvanizing just bumpers.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #16  
Old January 9th, 2016, 11:13 PM
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...ok, so who has (or has seen) a rusted out rotten original NAS rear bumper? Anyone...?

Fronts peel and rust all the time, as well, the rear brake arches, and swing away carrier, but not the rear bumpers.
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  #17  
Old January 10th, 2016, 12:23 AM
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I've seen a rusted one on the ecr site that was repaired.

I striped mine and it was not coated that I saw.

My nas 110 basket had what looked like galv on it when stripped but I don't think it was galvanized under the coating. Not sure what it was but had to have it chemicals stripped to get it clean.

Anyone want to chime in?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #18  
Old January 10th, 2016, 10:00 AM
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Here is one pic I had laying around
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