Ran out of gas...refilled and won't start..HELP - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old July 9th, 2013, 04:35 PM
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John B.
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YOU need to trace the electrical system to find the fault. The wiring diagram and troubleshooting guide in the workshop manual is quite clear to follow.
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  #22  
Old July 9th, 2013, 04:40 PM
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Bill Adams
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I think it's the pump.
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  #23  
Old July 9th, 2013, 04:53 PM
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Jake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
YOU need to trace the electrical system to find the fault. The wiring diagram and troubleshooting guide in the workshop manual is quite clear to follow.
Yes, if you look at the diagram I posted there's not much to the circuit. Fuse, Fuel Pump Relay, Inertia Switch and Fuel pump. If you reset the inertia switch (check it for continuity to make sure its good) and jump the fuel pump relay the fuel pump will turn on if it hasn't crapped the bed. If the fuse is good and you jump the relay and the pump doesn't run then the pump is a goner (likely since you ran it dry). If the pump runs then check the relay by swapping another relay in its place.
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  #24  
Old July 9th, 2013, 06:09 PM
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Justin Tebbenkamp
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Ultimately replaced pump...still doesn't start. Mech stated he jumped fuse #20 and pump will work. No power present on #20....mech stated it has something to do w solid white wire on #20 fuse....and once he gets power to this white wire it should start. The way I read the diagram the solid white went to ignition switch. Where does this wire get its power?
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  #25  
Old July 9th, 2013, 06:42 PM
psykokid
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Jake
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Fuse #20 in the satellite box just supplies power to the switch leg of the fuel pump relay which receives an rpm signal from the alternator to trigger the relay. The white wire from the ignition switch gets its power from the brown wire coming into the ignition switch when it's turned on. Back probe the ignition switch using the brown input line and the white output line and see if its getting power when you turn the switch to the run position.

Fuse #6 is a 15A fuse in the engine compartment fuse box which supplies power to the 30 lead of the fuel pump relay socket.
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  #26  
Old July 9th, 2013, 06:59 PM
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joe heins
1995 defender 90
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Just went through something similar with mine, wiring under the truck down range of the fuel relay burnt through (corrosion?) and fried the pump. New pump would not run until wires were run and the troubled wire was replaced.

I have also seen a loose wire on the bottom of the coil shut off ignition and pump, maybe check spark as well as pump.

Joe
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  #27  
Old July 9th, 2013, 07:24 PM
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Jake
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Have your mechanic check the supply side for the fuel pump like I said HERE buy jumpering the fuel pump relay. If the fuel pump runs that way, then the problem lies in the switching part of the circuit.
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  #28  
Old July 9th, 2013, 09:00 PM
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Mike Doligalski
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I go back to what Scott said at the beginning: air bubble in the fuel line. If I were you, I would try to really prime the hell out of the fuel pump/line/filter/whatever else.

I had the same thing happen to me years ago (6-7 years now?). Truck ran great as a daily driver and I -stupidly- ran it out of gas. I had intermittent stalling and starting issues for a long time after that. During that frustrating period I replaced the filter but never found a real "fix." It just took several weeks of driving and stalling for the truck to drive normally. I haven't had any of those related problems in the years since... And never replaced the pump.
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  #29  
Old July 10th, 2013, 03:28 PM
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Justin Tebbenkamp
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Problem Fixed

The white wire to the ignition switch had burned through. A new section was spliced in and I'm good.
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