Raising bulkhead off of frame - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 5th, 2013, 03:39 PM
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Raising bulkhead off of frame

I need to raise my bulkhead/body about 1/2" off the frame in order to get the chassis harness through the gap between the passenger outrigger and bulkhead. I forgot to have them leave the plugs off of the harness (where it connects to the main harness) when I ordered it and it's not going to fit through the gap with the plugs on.

I figured the I would remove the large bolt that connects the passenger side outrigger to bulkhead and loosen the nut on the drivers side. Then I'd use a 4x4 on top of a floor jack to raise the bulkhead up just a bit.

Am I missing something? I don't want to bend the bulkhead or body doing this.
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  #2  
Old January 5th, 2013, 04:00 PM
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Can't you lube up the loom with something slippery and slide the actual cable through the gap, instead of the plug?

But yes, if you undo the big bolt, AND the support bracket that bolts onto the back of the footwell, then you should have enough give in the wings and floor plates to use a hi-lift under the corner of the bulkhead to just lift it up a little bit.
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  #3  
Old January 5th, 2013, 04:54 PM
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Unfortunately, the plugs are at least 1/4" too big for the gap. What I should have done is order the harness with the plug inserts (the wire terminals) already crimped on and insert them into the plug shell once the harness wire was passed through. Hindsight...

On a positive note, I found a source for 1994 engine harnesses, brand new, made to order. I'll post a write-up on that later, once I finish this.
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Old January 5th, 2013, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Am I missing something? I don't want to bend the bulkhead or body doing this.
Why not just route it next to the transmission and tcase? There should be plenty of room when you remove the tranny tunnel?
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  #5  
Old January 5th, 2013, 06:38 PM
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You are going to twist a lot of things trying to lift one side of the bulkhead a 1/4". Rollcage, wings, seatbox, tub, etc are all interconnected in one way or another. Take the floor plate out and the tunnel out. I'm sure I've done this a couple of times with everthing in situ.
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Old January 5th, 2013, 06:58 PM
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The harness routes out of a hole in the frame and then up over the frame outrigger, across a small section of the wheel well and up into the engine bay. There is a branch that runs over to the t-case/gearbox are but that's not what I'm having trouble routing. There's not enough slack built into the harness to route it any other way.

I either need to figure out how to raise the bulkhead enough to squeeze the plug through or I need to clip toff the plug and install a new one, and hope that I have enough slack to do this.
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  #7  
Old January 5th, 2013, 07:43 PM
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Bulkhead is also tied in from the frame to the floor with 2 bolts on each side. I do not understand where the issue is take a picture and post it.
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Old January 6th, 2013, 04:56 AM
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How about taking the plugs off? they go both ways and would seem to me a bit easier than lifting the frigging bulkhead up.
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  #9  
Old January 6th, 2013, 10:05 AM
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Reread Chris' H's suggestion- we have done it that way numerous times as well
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Old January 9th, 2013, 05:10 PM
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So here's what I'm looking at. Removing the floor plate and tunnel would not help with my problem. I'm having trouble getting the very end of the harness over the outrigger and into the engine compartment:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...in/photostream

As you can see in this photo, the gap lies in between the bulkhead and the outrigger. The floor plates are to the rear of the gap:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...n/photostream/

The plug is just a little bit too big. Maybe 1/8 - 1/4" tops:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...n/photostream/

I'm just trying to avoid chopping this harness up. If I could raise the bulkhead 1/4" and then lower it back into place, I'd be done.
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  #11  
Old January 9th, 2013, 05:17 PM
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Hey Chris,

Have you tried looking inside the harness to see if there are little clasps that will release the individual metal prongs? I have had good luck with most electronic plugs like that. Just press on the little clasps and the wire will just pull out. Worth a look, maybe you'll get lucky and that plug works like that too.

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  #12  
Old January 9th, 2013, 05:17 PM
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Take the tunnel and floorboard off and it will be fine.
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  #13  
Old January 9th, 2013, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Take the tunnel and floorboard off and it will be fine.
Shit, I think I finally understand what you're getting at. So I would remove the floorboard and tunnel, then pull the harness over those brake lines and then forward of the outrigger, at which point I only have to move the wires over the outrigger, not the plugs?
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  #14  
Old January 9th, 2013, 05:24 PM
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Yup!
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  #15  
Old January 9th, 2013, 05:26 PM
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Thanks. Shit. I was stuck on this idea that the harness had to go over that outrigger and never considered going around it.
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  #16  
Old January 9th, 2013, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Thanks. Shit. I was stuck on this idea that the harness had to go over that outrigger and never considered going around it.
great success!
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  #17  
Old January 10th, 2013, 02:38 AM
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That is one clean chassis and underbody!
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