Radius/Trailing Arm Install - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 27th, 2007, 12:35 PM
pcscharfe
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Thumbs up Radius/Trailing Arm Install

How involved will it be to install new Radius Arms and Trailing Arms on my D90?
Tools/equipment required?
A quick list of steps to follow?
Tips/advice/lessons learned?

Sorry for the novice request, but I AM a novice at the mechanical stuff and want to learn.

Thanks!

Paul
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  #2  
Old August 27th, 2007, 12:57 PM
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Tom Rowe
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If the bolts aren't rusted, you can easily do all 4 in a day. I spent 2 days doing mine a couple weeks ago because it was so hot. That included replacing all the bushings.
Two jacks
Sockets to fit
A punch maybe
1-2 lb hammer
A small wrecking/pry bar
!!!!!Never Seize!!!!!
New bolts and nuts
6 -- class 10.9 16mm x 100mm x 2mm pitch
6 -- class 10 16mm x 2mm pitch nylock nuts
4 -- class 10 30mm x 2.5mm pitch nylock nuts
Sawzall if the bolts are rusted into the bushing sleves.
A hydraulic press if you're removing old bushings. (the arm to axle bushing can be drilled out in a pinch, but the arm to frame bushings sometimes need to be pressed off)

After removing one of the 16mm bolts I sawed it off to about 1 1/2" and ground a taper on it to use as an alignment pin for reinstallation.
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Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
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  #3  
Old August 28th, 2007, 08:11 AM
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Randy
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Tom spelled it out. Just a nuts and bolts job. Do one arm at a time so you do not get confused.. Soak every bolt in WD-40 a day early.

Remove the tire of what ever arm you are working on for more room and you should be fine..
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  #4  
Old August 28th, 2007, 11:57 AM
pcscharfe
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Thumbs up Great!

Tom, thanks for your thorough reply! That is exactly the kind of detail I was hoping for! Sounds like a feasible job for me, though I will need to find someone in my neck of the woods for the press work (no space in the garage or spare cash for one right now).

* Perhaps this is a stupid question--is the second jack to set the radius arm in position?

* Any pieces of the suspension or other parts in the way that need to be removed in the process to get the job done, beside the relvant tire as Randy pointed out?

* Do you have an online source for the fasteners--boltdepot.com doesnt seem to have grade 10.9 30mm nylocs?


Randy, thanks for the heads up on the WD40--I'll soak the fasteners overnight.

Thanks again,

Paul
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  #5  
Old August 28th, 2007, 12:03 PM
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Michael Steil
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Try here http://www.mcmaster.com/


And DO NOT forget the never sieze.
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  #6  
Old August 28th, 2007, 12:25 PM
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nate
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i anti seeze the sh*t out of every bolt whenever I have things apart. Makes tweaking things easier in the future. Just throwing it out there.

Follow-up Post:

i neglected to address what i initially meant to address- I never even bothered moving said tire. I just set up wheel chocks so the axle doesnt drift, get under there with a creeper/ crawler/ whatever your term of choice may be, and drop out the bolts and have at.
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  #7  
Old August 28th, 2007, 04:52 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Heres a trick in case you cant get access to a press: Get a heavy duty gear puller (i.e. one with big parts) and some sort of backing plate. The backing plate would ideally be just a little bigger around than the bushing with a hole in the middle for the "point" of the gear puller to seat into. You just reverse the arms of the puller (to make it a "pusher"), stack the new bushing on the old, stack on your backing plate, and get a breaker bar spin the gear puller. This technique uses the new bushing to push out the old and you're done in one step. I learned this from an old Alfa Romeo guy who helped me change the trans support bushing on my GTV. Nothing worse than pulling a trans just to press out a bushing.
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  #8  
Old August 28th, 2007, 09:23 PM
pcscharfe
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Thumbs up

So if I understand everyone correctly here..... Antiseize is optional?

Sounds like I need to get a bottle of Permatex...

Jim, thanks for the home-brewed press technique, it sounds like a good idea.

- Paul
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  #9  
Old August 29th, 2007, 04:07 AM
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Tom Rowe
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Just make sure you have a real press lined up in case the homemade method doesn't work. Nothing worse that having it to the point where you can't get it apart and it's too far apart to put back on.

Yes, the second jack it to lift the radius arms. I used a floor jack and my land rover bottle jack.
I few blocks of wood are handing. Maybe a couple of 2x4's and I had a 1' section of 6x6 I braced my wrench on the blot head against while using the impact wrench to remove the nuts.

You'll need to remove the tie rod to drop the front arm. That's the only unrelated part you have to remove.

I use Bostick Never-Seize. Been using it for over 30 years, it's great stuff. It comes in regular, pure nickel (pretty toxic), nuclear and marine grades. Well...also food grade but I never needed that on any Land Rovers.
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Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

62 88 Regular
67 109 6cyl NADA x2
74 Lightweight - The Antichrist
95 DI 5-speed
95 D90 5-speed
97 D1 Automatic
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  #10  
Old August 29th, 2007, 05:29 PM
pcscharfe
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Thumbs up

Thanks Tom, that sounds like a pretty complete "how to" for the install--I apprecaite the time you put into it. Now I'll be properly prepared.

Now to order my parts....


Paul
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  #11  
Old August 30th, 2007, 06:30 AM
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Tom Rowe
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I just wish I could go back and edit my last post...sorry about all the typos, but I guess you figured out what the hell I was trying to say. LOL
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Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

62 88 Regular
67 109 6cyl NADA x2
74 Lightweight - The Antichrist
95 DI 5-speed
95 D90 5-speed
97 D1 Automatic
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