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  #21  
Old July 16th, 2007, 06:25 AM
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Chris Hinkle
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I've had mine for over two years without problems. They didn't have dimensions, so I sent one for them to model it after. It fit perfectly and has cured my overheating problems. (I had already tried coring and everything else). Anyway, I would do it again without hesitation, and hopefully they still have the measurements.
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  #22  
Old July 16th, 2007, 08:38 AM
Monkeyboy

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Originally Posted by pendy
... It will take a few weeks so don't get your hopes up for overnight delivery.....


Oh wait ... you're not using the guy that we had to pay in liquor any more ...
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  #23  
Old July 16th, 2007, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoosier
I've had mine for over two years without problems. They didn't have dimensions, so I sent one for them to model it after. It fit perfectly and has cured my overheating problems. (I had already tried coring and everything else). Anyway, I would do it again without hesitation, and hopefully they still have the measurements.
Interesting report. The rad I am using is for the Chev 350 which matches the motor in both trucks (350 in the CrewCab, 283 in the Serious One).

I'm thinking of having a *fourth* rad built here locally. Leaky radiators suck...but expensive leaky radiators suck even more.
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  #24  
Old July 16th, 2007, 10:07 PM
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Tom More
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I ran a a Ron Davis rad in my 3.9 D-90 for about 5 years with no problems, it cured all my over heating problems, I could run all day in moab without creeping past 190F.. I am thinking about having one built for my 300tdi if i cant find another option.. the recored unit I have now can't seem to keep up on the mountain passes at higway speeds ( mountain pass high way speed for my rover being about 40-50 mph).. I also ran a Ron Davis in my 69 Bronco that ran a 450hp S.C. 5.8..

If any fabrication wizards are interested I have one that is close to the same width as athe rover 3.9 rad and about 2" taller ( also has the built in oil cooler) that I will pass on for cheap cheap.. shoot me a PM if you want dimensions or any details..
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  #25  
Old July 16th, 2007, 10:35 PM
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Dammit! Now I sound like a pitiful whiner. I must have gotten the only three bad radiators they've ever made then.

I do have to agree though...when they didn't leak they were the shiat!

Sounds like I might have to give them yet *another* chance. :
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  #26  
Old July 16th, 2007, 11:25 PM
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Mike, would they warranty--or at least fix--your busted radiators?
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  #27  
Old July 16th, 2007, 11:29 PM
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You'd think they would, but all they would offer is to *sell* me a new radiator...at cost.

Some kind of a deal eh? I think that's what got me sour on them as a company...practically NO dealer support.

The side tanks are held on with some funky epoxy and they say it can't be serviced. I JB-welded the living crap out of one of them and it still leaked.
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  #28  
Old July 16th, 2007, 11:45 PM
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that may be the differance, the one I still have has the headers TIG welded to the tanks.. Maybe they have changed their processes in the past 5 years?? The first Aluminum radiator I put in my bronco was built with epoxy( I think it was made by BeCool) and it failed rapidly...
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  #29  
Old July 17th, 2007, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmore
that may be the differance, the one I still have has the headers TIG welded to the tanks.. Maybe they have changed their processes in the past 5 years?? The first Aluminum radiator I put in my bronco was built with epoxy( I think it was made by BeCool) and it failed rapidly...
So we can deduct that it's not so much that Ron Davis radiator's suck...but it's the epoxy glue that holds the tanks to the cores that suck.

epoxy = suck

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  #30  
Old July 17th, 2007, 12:24 AM
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Tom, How did you order your Ron Davis radiator w/ oil cooler? Is there a part number or did you just ask for one that fits your 90? I'm looking for a bulletproof never-gonna-overheat solution.
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  #31  
Old July 17th, 2007, 06:21 AM
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If you go to their web site, they stress "no exopy" used. Mine was totally TIG welded, no epoxy. Land Rover is mentioned as a vehicle supported, but call an see what they can do.
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  #32  
Old July 17th, 2007, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoosier
If you go to their web site, they stress "no exopy" used. Mine was totally TIG welded, no epoxy. Land Rover is mentioned as a vehicle supported, but call an see what they can do.
That's funny...all three of mine were epoxied. Maybe they quit doing it after I started complaining.
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  #33  
Old July 17th, 2007, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmore
If any fabrication wizards are interested I have one that is close to the same width as athe rover 3.9 rad and about 2" taller ( also has the built in oil cooler) that I will pass on for cheap cheap.. shoot me a PM if you want dimensions or any details..
What part#/model/... for that one?
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  #34  
Old September 8th, 2007, 04:07 PM
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Trevor K
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i just installed my pendy upgraded radiator, it's probably 35% thicker then the stock one(the core I mean), it looked great and works even better, so far i've driven it to raliegh nc the back way through the hills of VA(rt29) and the whole way i never saw the temp indicator budge past the middle mark... i'm very happy with paying the very little extra and waiting the extra time. thanks pendy!
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  #35  
Old September 8th, 2007, 04:27 PM
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jim pendleton
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Thanks for the kind words Trevor. And your patience. Between my national rally trip and the shippers I know it held you up a few weeks. I am glad it make it to you unscathed. Shipping something like this is always a challenge for us little guys.

Most of all I'm glad it meets your needs . And I was glad to help. We are building one for Charles D90 next. I'll snap a few pictures of his after it is finished before shipping it to him and post them here. If nothing else people can print images of it and get there local guy to copy it for them. But I would be glad to provide them as well, as long as I can keep getting the cores back to make ready for the next guy in line.

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  #36  
Old September 8th, 2007, 05:02 PM
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Jim, need a core for a '93 lwb? I'd think it crosses over to other rrcs. It is partially blocked, but the core should be sound. It's yours if you want it.

TB
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  #37  
Old September 8th, 2007, 05:51 PM
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Just doing Defenders for these guys.

Thanks Tony. But I do have quite a few of those extra. It is a bit different and makes more work for the radiator shop to try to use those cores for the defender. Also its longer length confuses them when they order the core. The inlet and outlet are different. It has extra brackets soldered on. it has two sets of coolers. the bottom pins are configured wrong on the strap. Actually its larger size is one reason the disco and rrc hold temps better with good radiators. I'll take pictures of them side by side later as well.

The real problem is this. The factory designs a radiator to transfer heat at its optimum range for their specifications. with everything working like new. Not for larger tires. Not for an overweight vehicle. Not for reconfigured drivetrain gearing. Not for larger capacity engines. And they do it with an industrial tube style radiator core. That clogs up very easily. So if it is not keep clean and flushed it will loose efficiency early in its lifespan. I am talking about the brass and copper radiators here. Aluminum is its own set of problems. And they do it right on the edge of its parameters with no redundancy built in to the cooling system. Why. Because they need it to maintain heat at a particular level for the engine to meet its correct air/fuel ratio and burn clean with reaonable horsepower and MPG. Often the model produced from the factory can be improved upoun on a vehicle by vehicle basis. But it can just as easily be made to perform at less then factry performance.

With increased load and output of the engine the cooling capacity needs to be increased. And I am a firm believer in redundancy in this case. I would much rather deal with longer warm up cycles then an overheated engine. The factory design does not have this option because it has to make correct air-fuel in a certain time frame.

There are other options, But IMO this is the most cost effective.

JP
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  #38  
Old September 9th, 2007, 09:54 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Great to hear Kevin! If you haven't sent your core back to Pendy yet, H U R R Y
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  #39  
Old September 9th, 2007, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkavan01
So a brand new radiator from RN is 550ish+shipping, and it's still a rover radiator...
getting my radiator recored is going to cost 550+, thats the best quoote i got out of three tries...

so has anyone found a suitable replacement that is reasonable in price? Two radiator shops around me quoted nearly the same price for a recored as a new one...

another question would be is an upgraded recore better then a new stock radiator?

Thanks for any help, and if someone has any recommended shops in MD to work on the radiator let me know...
Rad place near me gave me a four core for $400.
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  #40  
Old September 9th, 2007, 03:16 PM
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jim pendleton
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Putting together five row cores with improved strapping for core. R-fin. For these guys

Jim Pendleton
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