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  #21  
Old January 10th, 2013, 06:44 PM
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mark kellgren
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I appreciate it Jeff. Alot. Leaving for2 weeks of grueling military command post exercise fun-ness, so parking and solving when I get back. I have a tranny jack in the garage that meeds a dusting off.
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  #22  
Old January 10th, 2013, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
Im going the ashcroft route. Picked up 110 and driving to buddies house. I havent pulled the tranny before. whats ballpark time for replacing tranny? any special tools required?

------ Follow up post added January 10th, 2013 03:17 PM ------

Ive replaced a CJ manual tranny before btw.
I took the floorboads and the center console out, pushed the hoist in and strapped the tranny and tc to the hook and lowered it down and dragged it out. On my own (at 65).

I used the strap ratchets to adjust the tranny on the hoist. Better and safer than jacks. But jack or hoist up the truck one side to drag it out.

Putting it back with the replacement Ashcroft went just as well in a couple of hours, singlehanded.

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  #23  
Old January 11th, 2013, 09:08 AM
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Here's the quote I got directly from David:
"R380, rebuilt outright 845 + carriage, dispatch Thursday , approx 4-5 days depending on customs"

And the shipping estimate to my nearest major airport in NC:
"I can give you an approximate shipping cost at the moment as I don't have the exact pallet size.
Door to Airport via DHL approx 200-220 this doesn't include duty, customs, clearance or local delivery."

Definitely cheaper than a rebuild done here.
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  #24  
Old January 11th, 2013, 09:29 AM
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Price has gone up a little, but that's life. I declared mine as tractor parts, so it was less duty. Mine came into Dulles and it was a two day effort to get the mess straight with the paperwork, but I just played dumb and they walked me thru it. It didn't help that I went after work so it was late in the day for them. The customs people walk out at 5 PM sharp no matter where you are in the paperwork stream.
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  #25  
Old January 11th, 2013, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Price has gone up a little, but that's life. I declared mine as tractor parts, so it was less duty. Mine came into Dulles and it was a two day effort to get the mess straight with the paperwork, but I just played dumb and they walked me thru it. It didn't help that I went after work so it was late in the day for them. The customs people walk out at 5 PM sharp no matter where you are in the paperwork stream.
Its just exchange rate variation - which I believe should be more favourable now than when I did it 2 years ago. The price on its own is below the comercial duty rate. I believe the customs rate was 2% declared as 'repair parts'.

------ Follow up post added January 11th, 2013 10:14 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
Here's the quote I got directly from David:
"R380, rebuilt outright 845 + carriage, dispatch Thursday , approx 4-5 days depending on customs"

And the shipping estimate to my nearest major airport in NC:
"I can give you an approximate shipping cost at the moment as I don't have the exact pallet size.
Door to Airport via DHL approx 200-220 this doesn't include duty, customs, clearance or local delivery."

Definitely cheaper than a rebuild done here.

Same as mine. He had a good price on a clutch too which I had them add in the box. And if you dont have a crossdrilled intermediate TC gear have them throw that in too. Better spline lube, but you will have new female spline for the new 380 to mate with - and its simple to drop in to the TransferCase (just get it in the right way round!)
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  #26  
Old January 11th, 2013, 12:48 PM
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Uncanny but Barry is right. The r380 cross member usually drops readily so I have never had to use a jack and if I did I would use a porta power but pulling the floors and the bulkhead flange give you total access and the process goes quickly. Buy a clutch to include throw out and make sure you get the damn plastic staple. Removing the trans and transfer case as one unit can be hairy if working by yourself with a marginal tranny jack.

I had no problem picking up mine like Bill did but I do this for a living. Expect to pay DHL about $175 for some undisclosed "handling"fee. You will first have to go to dhl and get their paperwork and then go to the customs office @ the airport and fill out a 7501 and pay some minimal duty then go back and pick up the trans from dhl. I played dumb and the customs officer filled the form out for me. Whole process took about an hour.
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  #27  
Old January 11th, 2013, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
Uncanny but Barry is right. The r380 cross member usually drops readily so I have never had to use a jack and if I did I would use a porta power but pulling the floors and the bulkhead flange give you total access and the process goes quickly. Buy a clutch to include throw out and make sure you get the damn plastic staple. Removing the trans and transfer case as one unit can be hairy if working by yourself with a marginal tranny jack.

I had no problem picking up mine like Bill did but I do this for a living. Expect to pay DHL about $175 for some undisclosed "handling"fee. You will first have to go to dhl and get their paperwork and then go to the customs office @ the airport and fill out a 7501 and pay some minimal duty then go back and pick up the trans from dhl. I played dumb and the customs officer filled the form out for me. Whole process took about an hour.
Thanks Doug for the vote of confidence, HA!

I pulled mine to do the clutch but yeah having a clutch ready would be smart. The tranny, transfer case coming out as one piece was very unwieldy. Going back in though is harder as you have to line up the dowels.

I was lucky in that the studs and seals for the manifold were available at the dealer near by. Keep this in mind if you are working on a ROW. You may want to pre order the crap that breaks. The dealer even had the drive shaft bolt Jeff lost in his coffee.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #28  
Old January 11th, 2013, 01:32 PM
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For a clutch alignment tool I used a short piece of copper pipe and wrapped it with blue painter's tape until it was the right diameters for both the pilot bushing and the clutch splines. Worked great and I think I still have it laying around somewhere. Or maybe I tossed it.
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  #29  
Old January 11th, 2013, 01:34 PM
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I have an engine hoist too.
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  #30  
Old January 11th, 2013, 02:22 PM
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I do have the tool if anyone needs it.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #31  
Old January 11th, 2013, 09:21 PM
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R380 Swap Advice

I've done a dozen or so and always with a lift.
Have tried several different ways, but for me it was easiest to remove the engine fan if it is in a schrod, interior shifters, propshafts, remove any exhaust in the way, take out removable crossmember, disconnect any spedo connections and wires handbrake linkage, then unbolt the transmission mounts (one mount will attach the transmission and the other the transfer case (if my memory is correct)), unbolt the transfer case from the gearbox and pull it away (be careful with the seal), then you can tilt the transmission down and undo all the nuts and swap the transmission without removing the floorboards or tunnel.
This method takes about 6 or 7 hours with air tools if you do not encounter any unusual difficulty. Don't forget to drain the fluids before you start. You'll need to support the engine.. I use a scrap piece of wood between the oil pan and a transmission jack.

If the exhaust nuts are stuck use a torch on them and only try to twist them when they are close to or red hot.

With no lift at my age, I wait until I can get on the lift!

You may want to also buy a cross drilled final drive gear, particularly if yours is not because the non-drilled gears often cause the rear of the main shaft splines to wear out and you don't want that to happen to your new box.

Another trick is I take a little extra time to remove all the studs. Then you can use long bolts when putting the transmission back in and 1 in each "corner" lets you slide the transmission right into place with guaranteed like up. Then use short bolts to bolt to the engine and transmission back together. install the other stuff and drive it away. Don't forget to fill the transfer case with gear oil and the R380 with the correct grade of ATF.

Hope this helps!
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  #32  
Old January 11th, 2013, 09:27 PM
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To avoid damaging the seal, you should take out the input gear before pulling the t-case (which also permits inspection for wear).
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  #33  
Old January 11th, 2013, 09:48 PM
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Good Point

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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
To avoid damaging the seal, you should take out the input gear before pulling the t-case (which also permits inspection for wear).
It will usually stay with the T-case, but could damage the seal if it hangs on the end of the main shaft.
I usually chance it because we have a whole bunch of new seals if needed and it avoids having to pull the T-Case cover which if I remember correctly you'd have to do to swap for a cross drilled gear anyway..
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  #34  
Old January 12th, 2013, 07:19 AM
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When replacing the clutch while it's out, is it normal to replace the pressure plate and friction plate together, or just friction plate? the throwoit bearing is a given.
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  #35  
Old January 12th, 2013, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
When replacing the clutch while it's out, is it normal to replace the pressure plate and friction plate together, or just friction plate? the throwoit bearing is a given.
Ive always replaced them both, dont forget to have the flywheel machined.
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  #36  
Old January 12th, 2013, 07:36 AM
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and you think I should do it with only 50k on the clutch?
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  #37  
Old January 12th, 2013, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
and you think I should do it with only 50k on the clutch?
its probably fine for another 100k
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  #38  
Old January 12th, 2013, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
and you think I should do it with only 50k on the clutch?
If the pressure plate looks good and worked fine before and the flywheel surface is also good, just scratch them up with some coarse sand paper and install a new disc. I usually scratch the disc a little as well to ensure it will grab.
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  #39  
Old February 13th, 2013, 07:45 AM
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Just paid via paypal for my new R380 with Ashcroft. should ship today.

Total with shipping from UK to CLT was $1,541.69 USD (960.00 GBP). Shipping is via DHL on a Door to Charlotte/Douglas Int Airport (this doesn't include duty, customs, clearance or local delivery). Shipping ended up being half of what they originally ballparked. It was only 115.

I ordered a new clutch kit from M&D (they sell the kit on ebay now), and they shipped the kit to Ashcroft (2 hours away in London). Ashcroft added the clutch kit to my tranny crate, so shipping for the clutch was only 15, saving me that cost.

Anybody provide insight on what I should expect to pay in customs and other miscellaneous fees?

I'll report here on final all in expenses so others have a point of reference.
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  #40  
Old February 13th, 2013, 10:26 AM
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Mark expect a #160 "handling fee" from DHL when you go to the airport. Your price sounds to be almost exactly what I paid two years ago, duty will be minimal.
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