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  #1  
Old October 30th, 2014, 01:48 PM
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Danny Harrington
1983 110 3-door
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Quick brake parts question

I need new brakes on my 1983 110. I want to replace at least the front rotors and pads

The few foreign parts shops around me (including AB, Eric was out) couldn't really verify what parts were correct for my truck.

I have the LR part numbers out of the LandroverWeb PDF, but that says 1987 onwards.

Front brake rotor FRC7239
Front brake pads STC2952

Is what it says. Can anyone confirm that?

Also, if I went into Napa or somewhere, what vehicle could I tell them it was for (that would be in their catalog) so I could just get the right dang parts for this weekend?


Thanks so much fellas.
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  #2  
Old October 30th, 2014, 04:02 PM
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J. Michael McCaig
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My Parts manual says FRC7329 for the rotors which you may not need to replace unless they are thin, scored or have ridges. I don't have any info on a crossover listing for pads from another vehicle...sorry
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Old October 31st, 2014, 10:44 AM
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Caved and ordered from Rovers North.
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  #4  
Old October 31st, 2014, 11:18 AM
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John B.
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According to the factory manual all 110s use the same pads from day 1. There are only two discs used, vented and solid. You should be fairly safe as long as someone did not play Lego with your truck at some point....
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Old October 31st, 2014, 11:19 AM
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John B.
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Also, if you are replacing the discs, you need to remove the hub and will need a lock washer and should replace the hub seals.
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Old October 31st, 2014, 11:34 AM
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Danny Harrington
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Well shit.
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  #7  
Old October 31st, 2014, 11:37 AM
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John B.
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If you have not done this, you should probably have a read of the manual. Changing a disc on a classic Land Rover is not like a normal car.... Only replace if really needed. Changing pads takes 5 minutes.
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Old October 31st, 2014, 11:38 AM
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John B.
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One last thing.... Make sure all of the caliper pistons are free (4 on each). They can rust in place.
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  #9  
Old October 31st, 2014, 11:48 AM
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Thanks John. Will do.

The rotors are visibly shot on the truck and the pads are just about there.
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  #10  
Old October 31st, 2014, 12:32 PM
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Danny Harrington
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So you're talking about number 8 & 14 here?

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  #11  
Old October 31st, 2014, 12:39 PM
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Bill Adams
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This is just me but I like to put a good lick of copper grease around the back of the hub where the rotor seats. Next time you go to replace the rotor, you'll thank yourself.

PS you can turn your regular disk brakes into vented disks by adding the spacers (and seals, and bolts) from a set of D1 or RRC vented rotor calipers to your calipers.
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  #12  
Old October 31st, 2014, 12:40 PM
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Haha. It looks pretty nasty. I'm thinking it's going to be a hammer and torch operation.
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  #13  
Old October 31st, 2014, 12:41 PM
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Yes. Might as well get a 5 as well. some people use sealant, but I prefer gaskets myself.

On #14 order an OEM RTC3511 and not the FTC4785 listed in the manual. The RTC3511 is a better seal design and will fit fine.
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  #14  
Old October 31st, 2014, 01:08 PM
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Danny Harrington
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Thank you.
Thank you.
Thank you.

For anyone who searches this later:

On an EARLY 110 front axle with a key cut in the spindle not a flat

#5 Joint washer = FRC3988

#8 Lock washer = 217353
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  #15  
Old November 5th, 2014, 12:42 PM
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Danny Harrington
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Quick brake parts question

OK! Job well done! Thanks for the tips fellas. It was well overdue! RoversNorth sent the wrong caliper pins, but Atlantic British came through in the clutch. Those 12 point bolts are no joke when they get old...

New rotor thickness = .554"
Old rotor thickness = .453"






Now I need to figure out why the truck has starter motor failures...
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