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  #1  
Old November 10th, 2006, 03:34 PM
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Brian Terpstra
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Question on Axles

Don't beat me up - I did a search first, but didn't get much.

Since I've got 4.10 gears, a 4-1 case, and ARBs in the front & rear, I feel like it's only a matter of time before something goes crunch. Keep in mind, I'm a banker not an engineer so if you respond with any technical stuff use 2 syllables or less. I doubt I ever go over 33" for the tires but i'd like to be able to do 35" without having to worry.

Considering a few options- remember this is from a guy who can barely fix a bicycle, so breakage for me is a VERY bad thing.

-MD/Rovertracks axles - 1541H material, but case hardened not through hardened. If i remember right, not a wasted design.

-GBR axles - base material is less impact resistance but through hardened (again, assuming i remember correctly). Design is wasted so less susceptible to shear near the splines.

-CV's - I assume you replace those along with the front axle shafts.

-Toyota- much more expensive, but if I spent the extra cash do i get enough add'l strength to make it worthwhile? Would have to have the e-locker naturally. Doing it right, doesn't that involve changing the entire housing or just the 3rd & shafts?

So questions:
1) Any opinions on GBR vs. MD vs. Toyota?
2) What about the R&P? If I change the axles shafts, am I really accomplishing anything or am I just moving the problem further up the driveline?
3) Finally, if I generally have a light foot and aren't going super-extreme, does it really matter which one of those options I go with? (Most extreme thing I've done is Holy Cross in CO, Wheeler Lake, some Moab stuff like Poison Spider.)
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  #2  
Old November 10th, 2006, 04:04 PM
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Jeff B
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Brian, I would call Keith at http://www.rovertracks.com/ . He is a little better on prices and the new "LongTracks" cvs is probably gonna be exactly what you need.
He's also right in your area!
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  #3  
Old November 10th, 2006, 04:55 PM
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Keith's stuff will cure all your worries forever for around a grand, call him.
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Old November 10th, 2006, 05:53 PM
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Brian Terpstra
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Talked to Keith a bit earlier, so I got his opinions actually before I posted. I'd certainly be comfortable with his stuff but before I part with some cash I'd like to do a bit of surfing here for opinions.

Naturally, as concerning the value of opinions, you get what you pay for.....

BT


PS. Before I get yelled at - yes, I know the GBR's are MD & the Rovertracks are Moser. Switched it in the original post.
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  #5  
Old November 10th, 2006, 06:25 PM
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How often do you wheel? I have 33 inch tires and ARB's and a 4.6 been to Moab, colorado, mud pits, rock piles etc and haven't had a problem with the stock axles. Longest you arent abusive on your truck and use the winch after 10th attempt at something, you're normally fine. Actually the only thing i ever did break was GBR axles because i thought i was invincible and did something real dumb.. I also don't have a grand to spend. Then again, if and when i break an axle i will replace it with something "stronger," but until then don't change it if it ain't broke. Although these are just my experiences other guys on this forum have their d-90s almost purpose built and go through axles like water.
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  #6  
Old November 10th, 2006, 06:38 PM
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Well I'm long in the tooth with doing mods, although I have a few, they were decided upon in the course of many years.
I have been looking at axle & CV upgrades for a while, and I'm still running with stock. I go off road but haven't done extreme bouldering in a long while. The stock axles are pretty good if your Rover is being used for what it was designed for, treking, hard obstacles, and heinous two tracks. A good foot and technique goes a long way. Right now I carry spare stock axles. I have recently repaired one of my CVs.

My point? it depends on how hard your going to off road, and nothing is indestructible. If you go hard with axle upgrades
Arbs, 35s etc.. you will eventually break something anyway. Maybe less, but it will happen. I can vouch for the 110
type CV/ axles, as they are very strong for advanced course. As for Toyota set up, I don't feel comfortable with non Rover specific stuff, least of all Toyota. (Thats why Rovers don't sport Nissan diesel engines). But thats me!.
To each his own.

GBR is nicely engineered, and the package well sold. Very tempted in that direction. But the prices are a major consideration to me, as I know that replacement will be expensive.

Keith at Rovertracks is good equipment, and designed to work. Less fufu I suppose, but looks solid. He is also always developing , and tries to bring it in at a decent and affordable price. Is it a compromise compared to GBR? not really as all stuff breaks, and both are comparable in strength.

As for me, saving money for axles/CV upgrades and will go with Rovertracks. At least when I buy the gear, I will also be able to buy extras as spares, which in my book is most important.

Just a point of view from a guy thats been mauling this in his head way too long..
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  #7  
Old November 10th, 2006, 07:08 PM
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The Rovertracks / Toyota / Longfield 30 spline axle components are extremely robust, and have been surviving in the Swampslut under repeated and frequent trashings, w/35's, w/ stupid driving fully locked under the worst conditions.

I'd feel really comfortable with the new Rovertracks 24 spline direct bolt in Rover products as they are well researched, developed and tested, and backed up with a knowledgeable manufacturer and honest guarantee, as well as the best pricing in the business.

As for running stock axles.....it's only a matter of time.
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  #8  
Old November 10th, 2006, 10:41 PM
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"...As for Toyota set up, I don't feel comfortable with non Rover specific stuff, least of all Toyota."

I think you better research this setup more effectively. As Matt hinted, it's probably the best cost effective setup - especially when you can pickup Toy diff/locker combo new for $1000 average.Or, used for $350 each - yep, rear and front HP (I got lucky on that one).

Granted, by cost effective I mean your willing to do most of the work. Even if you're not, you're still getting a much stronger diff, several r&p combos, Keith's great axles and lifetime warranteed CV's.
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  #9  
Old November 10th, 2006, 11:01 PM
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ca

I would feel like I was driving a Toyota, Might as well get a Toyota.. .. not into it. But thats just me.
I guess I'm a little bit purist, and don't mind dealing with the limitations (or capabilities) of the Rover.
I've been checking out Mcnamara Hypoid diff/locker, looks interesting, but not much info on it.

I hear you about the stock axles. I broke a few on my series 2A. I'm sure I will bust my Def. axles eventualy.
THAT will surely be the time I finally splurge on upgrading.
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Old November 10th, 2006, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewap
I would feel like I was driving a Toyota, Might as well get a Toyota.. .. not into it. But thats just me.
I guess I'm a little bit purist, and don't mind dealing with the limitations (or capabilities) of the Rover.
I've been checking out Mcnamara Hypoid diff/locker, looks interesting, but not much info on it.

I hear you about the stock axles. I broke a few on my series 2A. I'm sure I will bust my Def. axles eventualy.
THAT will surely be the time I finally splurge on upgrading.
Your engine was made by Buick. Do you feel like you drive a Buick?
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  #11  
Old November 10th, 2006, 11:25 PM
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So, you'll feel fine driving a McNamara or Keith-mobile?
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  #12  
Old November 10th, 2006, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewap
I've been checking out Mcnamara Hypoid diff/locker, looks interesting, but not much info on it.
The McNamara Hypoid center uses a Toyota 8" R&P. Basically it is the same as going the Toy route for more money. McNamara has been doing the "Toy" swap for decades.

For what you sound like, get the Rovertracks Longfield bolt in replacement shaft and CVs for the front and Rovertracks 24 spline axles for the rear and you'll be fine.
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Old November 11th, 2006, 12:34 AM
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I understand that the V8 is a Buick design, and we are the only ones in the world stuck with it. I would feel much better
with a TDI under the hood. If I culd flash 20K out of my pocket right now to "revert" I would. Everytime I'm in Europe, friends can't believe I'm running a V8 in the Defender (why the hell would anyone put a V8 in a Landrover?)..
But to answer your question, it doesn't feel right running the V8 in the defender.. Defenders should be diesels.
But right now, I have no choice.

Didn't know Mcnamara was a Toyota based design. Shows how much I kow. The Rovertracks route sounds the way to go.
I think inovative upgrading or customizing a Rover is all good. Wether some want ultimate strength with Toyoya CV's,
is cool, and informative to me. But personaly just not for me.
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  #14  
Old November 11th, 2006, 05:18 AM
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i with you on keeping it all rover

its like these dudes with "jeeps" and its really a 3/4 ton Chevy
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Old November 11th, 2006, 08:33 AM
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My vote is to go with the GBR/Maxidrive half shaft, it's all about the waisted design. I have run these for almost 2 years now on trails rated 7-9 without problem. I did break a CV on the Rubicon, but that was my fault entirely (forgot I had front locker on and had wheel cranked hard). I run the HD front axle which utilize the larger 110 CV. They're pretty awesome.
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Old November 11th, 2006, 09:44 AM
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I don't really get the "If I break it then I'll upgrade" mentality. Murphy will rear his ugly head when you are on a steep narrow switchback at the National Rally with 15 trucks behind you and force everyone to wait while you get strapped up and down a mountain. That or one afternoon when you are alone and just explore an easy forest road with your wife to end up breaking an axle as it starts to snow and get dark.

You are going to spend it anyway, buy the best and cry just once.
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Old November 11th, 2006, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY
I don't really get the "If I break it then I'll upgrade" mentality. Murphy will rear his ugly head when you are on a steep narrow switchback at the National Rally with 15 trucks behind you and force everyone to wait while you get strapped up and down a mountain. That or one afternoon when you are alone and just explore an easy forest road with your wife to end up breaking an axle as it starts to snow and get dark.

You are going to spend it anyway, buy the best and cry just once.

Most people can't afford every upgrade before they go wheelin'. Carry some spares and tools and try to avoid the "I absolutely have to be home before 6PM".
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  #18  
Old November 11th, 2006, 10:22 AM
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quote:[ You are going to spend it anyway, buy the best and cry just once]

Hard to argue when you put it that way..
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Old November 11th, 2006, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheki
My vote is to go with the GBR/Maxidrive half shaft, it's all about the waisted design. I have run these for almost 2 years now on trails rated 7-9 without problem. I did break a CV on the Rubicon, but that was my fault entirely (forgot I had front locker on and had wheel cranked hard). I run the which utilize the larger 110 CV. They're pretty awesome.

That is a silly option with the $660 Longfield axle and CV combination being available. Really anyone putting anything else into a Rover front axle with a Rover center likes wasting money for no reason.
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  #20  
Old November 11th, 2006, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
That is a silly option with the $660 Longfield axle and CV combination being available. Really anyone putting anything else into a Rover front axle with a Rover center likes wasting money for no reason.
What seems silly to me is paying $660 for a product no-one has any experience with.

Are any of these Rovertracks CV/axles out on trucks being tested prior to them being available for public sale ?

To dismiss a recommendation from a guy that has been running the AEU2522/MD axle combo, consistently on hard trails, with one CV failure (which admittedly was driver error), in favor of the 'latest greatest' bling on the market.

That's silly.
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