Question for those with rack mounted rear work lights - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 25th, 2011, 02:26 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Question for those with rack mounted rear work lights

How are you routing your wires? I'm not very happy with my current set up (see picture) and I am considering drilling a hole and inserting a grommet in the rear of the roof next to the light for a cleaner look. Has anyone done this?
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  #2  
Old September 25th, 2011, 02:51 PM
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Any way you could snake it inside the ladder and go in at the license plate light? On my rear work light, I drilled a small hole in bottom of the plastic part of the license plate light ($10 part) and snaked it in through the existing hole in the body that the license light goes through. I hate the idea of putting a new hole in the body.
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  #3  
Old September 25th, 2011, 04:23 PM
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On my old 90, i used a marine deck gland for my cables. It was about 1.5" diameter, aluminium, with a decent rubber grommet in the middle.

One of these ones

I had my CB, spots, GPS and radio antenna cables go through it, and never had a drop of water come through.
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Old September 25th, 2011, 04:25 PM
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I've been nipping away at the metal lip under the door seal, and the door seal itself, sealing up with butyl.
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  #5  
Old September 25th, 2011, 05:21 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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My old work light was hooked up like that. I have two identical rear work lights mounted on the rack so this particular set up will not work that well for what I'm doing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reese_D90 View Post
Any way you could snake it inside the ladder and go in at the license plate light? On my rear work light, I drilled a small hole in bottom of the plastic part of the license plate light ($10 part) and snaked it in through the existing hole in the body that the license light goes through. I hate the idea of putting a new hole in the body.
------ Follow up post added September 25th, 2011 04:23 PM ------

That's exactly what I was thinking about. If it is guaranteed to seal properly I have no problem drilling a hole in the roof. I will look into this. Then when I get a GPS (with antenna) I can route it through that as well. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel_jim View Post
On my old 90, i used a marine deck gland for my cables. It was about 1.5" diameter, aluminium, with a decent rubber grommet in the middle.

One of these ones

I had my CB, spots, GPS and radio antenna cables go through it, and never had a drop of water come through.
------ Follow up post added September 25th, 2011 04:27 PM ------

Does anyone knows who sells those in the US?
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  #6  
Old September 25th, 2011, 09:54 PM
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Rather than adding screws in addition to drilling a hole, why not just use a weatherproof grommet? A few different versions out there

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/t...71-377497.html
(roughly matching white which might be appealing for your application)

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/p...401-38742.html
(smaller)

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/p...39-494896.html

Other examples on this page: http://www.directindustry.com/indust...met-80472.html
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  #7  
Old September 25th, 2011, 10:06 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Wow. Even better Geoffrey. Thanks! I much prefer this direction. Nice.
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  #8  
Old September 25th, 2011, 10:35 PM
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similar
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=10612
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  #9  
Old October 30th, 2011, 10:25 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I ended up getting a pair of glandular fittings from Future Electronics (Part# LTG-39897) similar to what Geoffrey suggested, to route the work light wiring through the roof. Underneath the braided sheath you see in the picture I heat-shrinked the entire section of electrical wire that is outside of the vehicle in order for create a good seal. The glandular fitting is completely water proof. I love these things. I'm also thinking about using these for the wiring coming through the rear of the tub and they would also be a good option for routing GPS antennas etc
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  #10  
Old October 30th, 2011, 10:30 PM
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Looks nice.

What's everyone using for a rear light?
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  #11  
Old October 30th, 2011, 10:43 PM
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Nice work!
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  #12  
Old October 30th, 2011, 10:50 PM
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Thanks!

I'm using JW Speaker: http://www.jwspeaker.com/products/work-lights I plan to replace headlights with JW Speaker LED's as well once the price comes down a bit. Everything on my truck except headlights are LED.
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  #13  
Old October 31st, 2011, 09:50 AM
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I ran mine along the frame rail, then came up behind the license plate (into the passenger compartment) using a wire loom and popped out where I mounted it near the rain gutter with a CB antenna bracket
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  #14  
Old October 31st, 2011, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Thanks!

I'm using JW Speaker: http://www.jwspeaker.com/products/work-lights I plan to replace headlights with JW Speaker LED's as well once the price comes down a bit. Everything on my truck except headlights are LED.
These are the way to go for LED headlights (I'm having a set installed - both ICON and Predator Inc use the Truck-Lite LEDs):
http://www.levineautoparts.com/truck...-headlamp.html
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  #15  
Old October 31st, 2011, 04:50 PM
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Looks like icon uses JW lights
http://www.autoblog.com/2011/10/31/i...k-spin-review/
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  #16  
Old October 31st, 2011, 04:56 PM
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I really like the idea of replacing my Matador with an LED for the rear worklight. After a lot of thought, I decided I'm never going to go LED headlight, since they run so cold that they won't be able to melt snow/ice off which is bad. If someone in the NE with LED headlights can report back after snowmageddon II to confirm or deny my assumptions, I'd appreciate it.
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  #17  
Old October 31st, 2011, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
It seems they've started to mix things up; in the pic below, you can see the Truck-Lite headlights.
http://icon4x4.com/sites/icon4x4.com..._NS_LA_Dam.jpg

I haven't seen the JW's in person, although I've heard good things. A friend with a JK has the Truck-Lite headlights, and they look amazing. I'm sure light output is equally good, so it's a matter of personal preference - I prefer the look of the Truck-Lites.
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  #18  
Old October 31st, 2011, 08:51 PM
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I use the Anchor through deck fittings frequently. I also use them to run battery wires etc into the battery box instead of the silly factory grommets.
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  #19  
Old November 1st, 2011, 01:16 AM
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I'm not buying lights from someone who is not willing to disclose the light output (in raw and effective lumens) for their products. JW Speaker has all that info on their site. Truck-lite and Rigid Industries do not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by keiphers
These are the way to go for LED headlights (I'm having a set installed - both ICON and Predator Inc use the Truck-Lite LEDs):
http://www.levineautoparts.com/truck...-headlamp.html
------ Follow up post added November 1st, 2011 12:25 AM ------

Mark. Granted I haven't completed the wiring yet, I think you're off on this one. They run cooler but not cold. They're still warm/hot compared to a standard light with comparable output. Especially the high intensity ones are going to be warmer. I know the new Rigid Industries work lights have temperature sensory circuits in order to preventing them from over heating. If they're too hot they run at reduced output. Perhaps someone who owns one can attest to this. Either way it sounds like a crazy ass reason not to buy one. ; )

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander
I really like the idea of replacing my Matador with an LED for the rear worklight. After a lot of thought, I decided I'm never going to go LED headlight, since they run so cold that they won't be able to melt snow/ice off which is bad. If someone in the NE with LED headlights can report back after snowmageddon II to confirm or deny my assumptions, I'd appreciate it.
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  #20  
Old November 1st, 2011, 06:19 AM
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I have been happy with the Rigid Industries light I have as a rear aux light. They sell as single or in pairs.

https://www.rigidindustries.com/category-s/131.htm
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