Question about Mallory Unilite distributor & Coil combination compatibility - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 22nd, 2010, 08:28 PM
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Question about Mallory Unilite distributor & Coil combination compatibility

I searched but didn't see anything specific regarding this combination and was wondering if anybody has tried these parts or have anything to chime in. Specifically regarding the Mallory Unilite 4768901 & the Mallory coil 30451 which states does not need a ballast resister. I talked to a tech at mallory and he told me to buy these 2 parts and that should work on the D90. Course I'm wondering, is it true I can use that coil with the 8901 with no ballast and have no problems (coil overheating / dying etc)? Anyone ever used that coil with your Mallory? Any help is appreciated, thank you.

Neil
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Old November 22nd, 2010, 08:37 PM
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dont remember part numbers but i had the mallory distributor with mallory coil with the ballast built in to it and it blew up. replaced with a msd coil and external ballast- no problems while i had it
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Old November 22nd, 2010, 08:44 PM
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Wish I knew your part numbers, this guy at Mallory said it would be fine. sigh.

------ Follow up post added November 22nd, 2010 05:51 PM ------

Here is the link to the coil, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product It says quote
Quote:
Product Features
  • Effective to 6500 RPM
  • Easily install by connecting directly to 12-volt wire
  • No ballast resistor required
  • 30451 is red. Available in black #30450

Any opinions?
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Old November 22nd, 2010, 09:29 PM
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I have a mallory unit, changed the ignition mod to the e-spark, cheaper and apparently better, but to chime in on your question, I do have a ballast resistor hooked up. I recently changed to a Bosch coil and put in a new resistor. Unfortunately don;t know if it would work without..... I also added a mallory ignition coil filter to help regulate voltage spikes...... all in all seems to work fine..... hope it helps, if you want I can take a pic and send it to you....
cheers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley View Post
I searched but didn't see anything specific regarding this combination and was wondering if anybody has tried these parts or have anything to chime in. Specifically regarding the Mallory Unilite 4768901 & the Mallory coil 30451 which states does not need a ballast resister. I talked to a tech at mallory and he told me to buy these 2 parts and that should work on the D90. Course I'm wondering, is it true I can use that coil with the 8901 with no ballast and have no problems (coil overheating / dying etc)? Anyone ever used that coil with your Mallory? Any help is appreciated, thank you.

Neil
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  #5  
Old November 22nd, 2010, 10:03 PM
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neil- ill try and find out which one it was but it was not the one you posted. the mallory coil i used with the built in ballast looked like the original
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  #6  
Old November 22nd, 2010, 10:06 PM
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That was the part number he gave me for the coil, then I found it on Amazon. I'm just trying to find out if he knew what he's talking about or not, don't want to make any judgements til I know for sure.
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Old November 23rd, 2010, 08:30 AM
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I believe the optical trigger distributors are not dependant on a coil with a specific resistance unlike the Pertronix conversion units which are coil resistance sensitive.
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  #8  
Old November 23rd, 2010, 12:56 PM
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I will call them again today and talk to another tech, will update later this afternoon. Thanks everyone.
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Old November 23rd, 2010, 02:42 PM
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I'm using that model distributor with coil number 30440, and WITH a ballast resistor.
I also swapped in the e-spark module.

It did run like crap initially, but there is a new "alternate" wiring diagram that comes with the e-spark modules, and once I went with that it's run great ever since.

-Hans
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  #10  
Old November 23rd, 2010, 03:43 PM
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Ok, here we go. Just got off the phone with the tech at Mallory who said he actually has tested and helped with some aspects of improving the unlite distributor and this is what he said. When using the Mallory unilite distributor part #(4768901) and if your using with a coil that has less than 1.2 ohms than you DO need a ballast resister. If your using one thats over 1.2 ohms than you don't need one. He said its your choice weather you want to use one or not but thats what you should know. I bought the Promaster E-Series ignition coil part # (30451)and that puts out 1.4 ohms so he said the ballast resister is not needed at all, he said to trust him that this is the best combo for a D90. (crosses fingers) He also said you don't really need the optional power filter and that it can help but it dosen't make your internal ignition module bullet proof so basically he said don't bother with it. Just go straight from coil to distributor. I asked him about your coil Hans and he said your coil is really used for those high output MSD ignition systems and that I should stay away from that set up because its not neccesary and also with that coil you do need the ballast resister (like you have) due to it having less than 1.2 ohms. Also he said that we (as older rover owners) should get out of the 1920's and toss out the oil filled coils that can heat up and explode and upgrade to current technology which are these epoxy filled firewall/wheel well mounted coils. He said they are much more reliable than our old junk. hmm So there you have it, I ordered my parts, gonna put it all in and cross my fingers. Thanks for reading.


Cheers


PS I will post my results of course.
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  #11  
Old November 23rd, 2010, 10:37 PM
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Neil-

Please post what you think with that new style coil. I had a Mallory coil that was given me so many issues unknown to me (was less than a year old). Also the first ballast resister I had cracked in half. Currently I'm on a Bosch coil (the local garage popped it in when they determined the coil was cooked). But this past week I've been having a really weird problem that I won't be surprised if it is coil related again. Will jump into it when the Turkey Day weekend is over.
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  #12  
Old November 24th, 2010, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley View Post
I asked him about your coil Hans and he said your coil is really used for those high output MSD ignition systems and that I should stay away from that set up because its not neccesary and also with that coil you do need the ballast resister (like you have) due to it having less than 1.2 ohms.
If you're running the stand-alone distributor, yeah, either setup will work. I wanted to leave the option open for adding the hyfire ignition box in the future, so that's why I opted for the eternal resistor style coil.

-Hans
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  #13  
Old November 24th, 2010, 12:23 PM
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Distributor is here, coil not yet, sexy distributor ::touchesgonads::
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Old December 27th, 2010, 01:07 PM
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Ok so far everything works, and I am running NO ballast resister with this particular coil and I drove around all nite around town and so far it works great. After the install, I did let it run for about 30 minutes while installing my car amps and I noticed the coil was very hot, I don't know if it was normal but once I drove around, the coil cooled down, I did have the headlights on so im not sure if this had something to do with it, but now after a drive around town its just warm, not hot. I'm keeping an eye on it since it seems im the first guy here to put in a mallory coil that isn't suppost to be used with a ballast resister. I'll update periodically.
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  #15  
Old June 1st, 2011, 11:59 AM
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Hey Neil-

Any updates on how that Mallory 30451 Promaster E Series Coil has been working?

I've been having some running issues with my truck (one being a fuel pump/inertia switch). The other thing I noticed while under the hood was my 2nd cracked ballast reisitor (pic is attached)

I am thinking that replacing the Bosch coil and the ballast resister with the 30451 and seeing if that is any more durable.
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  #16  
Old June 1st, 2011, 12:32 PM
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If the coil is a true 12v coil, the ballast resistor is not needed and will reduce the output of the coil -- not good for performance. The ballast resistor is there to drop the current to the coil. Generally they cut it from 12v to about 9v, because even though it says it's a 12v coil, it's really a 9v coil. During starting the charge to the coil is 12v to help starting, then once the ignition switches to "run" the resistor is back in and the coil only gets the needed 9v. Obviously internal resistor coils only ever put out the choked value, they're more common on smaller engines that need less juice to crank over.


I'm SO glad I have a diesel now...
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  #17  
Old June 2nd, 2011, 03:06 PM
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No problems so far, drive it practically everyday, love this set up.
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  #18  
Old October 17th, 2011, 05:45 PM
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My ignition module left me stranded in the street this afternoon. I am having a hard time bringing myself to do something that is not genuine but I would really like to improve the ignition system. So how much altering of the factory wiring harness do you have to do to install the 30451 4768901 combination? Is anything else required besides these the coil and distributor?
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  #19  
Old January 10th, 2012, 11:11 AM
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So I have a Mallory dizzy and had been using a NAPA coil and resistor.After reading this thread I bought the Mallory coil from Amazon. Two months later the truck up and dies on me.I found that the optic sensor in the dizzy was bad.I replaced it and it still would not run.Turns out the new coil went bad.Mallory says the optic sensor usually goes bad due to a voltage spike.I wonder if I had a voltage spike due to NoT running a resistor?
Jeff
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  #20  
Old January 10th, 2012, 11:39 AM
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this is why I paired a mallory dizzy with mallory coil. Its been all this time and I have not had one problem yet. Runs great. Required no wire modifications to the original harness at all, all you need is pos and neg to run it.
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