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  #1  
Old July 26th, 2015, 10:36 AM
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Kevin C. Doyle
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question about hot air....

I drove the 95 NAS 90 SW the first time on the highway when it was really hot outside. Say 100 degrees F and 60% humidity.

Averaged 70-75 mph for about an hour. 90 runs like a dream. The only problem is the gale force winds that are the temperature of lava coming up through my defroster vents.

No amount of manipulating the temp or vent controls would stop it. Kinda overwhelmed the air conditioner..

Is this just the design or do I need to adjust something so that the outside air does not melt my drinking straw again?

Thanks in advance as always..

KCD
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  #2  
Old July 26th, 2015, 11:02 AM
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Ryan Phelps
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Check that the Hot/Cold lever moves the cable attached to the top of the heater box. That lever moves a flap inside of the box that forces air through the heater core or bypasses the heater core. In the full heat position the lever will be pointing towards the passenger side and full cool it will be point towards the driver side. If thats good you probably have leakage by the flap due to a failed seal.
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Old July 26th, 2015, 11:19 AM
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Kevin C. Doyle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RovingRyan View Post
Check that the Hot/Cold lever moves the cable attached to the top of the heater box. That lever moves a flap inside of the box that forces air through the heater core or bypasses the heater core. In the full heat position the lever will be pointing towards the passenger side and full cool it will be point towards the driver side. If thats good you probably have leakage by the flap due to a failed seal.
Thanks! I'll check this out and let you know!

KCD
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Old July 26th, 2015, 12:59 PM
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Kevin mine has the same issue. Turns out it was the linkage cable. It is hung up/stuck somewhere along the line between the hot/cold lever and the heater box. I haven't solved the cable but in summer I manually moved the heater box to "cold" setting and it improved the heat flow quite a bit. Obviously these 90's throw off cabin heat of their own but it helped a lot. Then in Winter I just pop the hood and move it back to "hot". On the box there is no hot cold label but just move the control to its opposite position and you should be good to go.
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Old July 26th, 2015, 01:11 PM
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Kevin C. Doyle
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OK..

Quote:
Originally Posted by wmatos1001 View Post
Kevin mine has the same issue. Turns out it was the linkage cable. It is hung up/stuck somewhere along the line between the hot/cold lever and the heater box. I haven't solved the cable but in summer I manually moved the heater box to "cold" setting and it improved the heat flow quite a bit. Obviously these 90's throw off cabin heat of their own but it helped a lot. Then in Winter I just pop the hood and move it back to "hot". On the box there is no hot cold label but just move the control to its opposite position and you should be good to go.


I tried that and my cable seems to be working perfectly.. I am now going to research the seal failure option....

When driving and moving the cable to the "cold" position, it certainly reduced the hot air coming through the defroster vents but.....

Think Category 1 hurricane vs Category 4, or EF1 vs EF4 for those of us in the Midwest...

Of course, if anyone knows this seal solution or test for it as I search, kindly ding me!!

KCD
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  #6  
Old July 26th, 2015, 03:23 PM
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Jeff Payne
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Also check the fan speed cable. You should be able to push it all the way up to the top and seal off the air flow to the cabin
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Old July 26th, 2015, 05:22 PM
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William
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
Also check the fan speed cable. You should be able to push it all the way up to the top and seal off the air flow to the cabin
That doesn't work so well on mine. It stops the fan completely from blowing but does not stop air flow through the floor vents. Still quite a bit comes through. I just wear shorts and flip flops in the summertime to stay cool
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Old July 26th, 2015, 07:01 PM
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James Wallace
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For whatever reason I noticed the same on mine coming back from Burning Man last year. When I got home I loosened the connections of the cables at the heater box and checked how far they traveled without being hooked up. Found mine where rigged wrong, needed a bit more throw than it was set for. So put the internal lever in the closed position and then move the flap lever as hard closed as you can. Then tighten the screw so that the lever actually closes the flap before it hits its own internal stop in the dash. Do the same with the coolant valve. Cleared mine up completely. A little Tri-flow oil on the cable housing helps a bit as well.
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