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Puzzling No Start Issue RRC

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2K views 27 replies 11 participants last post by  lordhelemt 
#1 ·
Picked up a non-running '94 LWB RRC a few weeks ago. Once I got it here I discovered it did not have spark at the coil. Decided to replace the amplifier and in doing so I discovered a bad spade on the ground wire to the dizzy. I ran a new ground and went ahead and replaced the amplifier since the dizzy was already out. Truck would start sometimes, other times not. Looked at the code and continued to throw 23 so I replaced the fuel pump. The code went away and the truck was running fine. Only issue is it would take a 10-15 seconds, sometimes longer, to start when cold. Once it was running if you turned it off and restarted it within 30 mins or so it would restart immediately.

Drove it around town a bit and it started stalling at red lights. It would restart without issue but couldn't find idle. Tried to clean the stepper motor and it didn't help. Replaced the stepper motor and it idles. Drive it around a bit more and drives as it should. Drove 20miles west on 66 then back on side roads and the truck ran great. Code free, no CEL, and running great other than the slow start when cold.

Son has a tournament and wants to take the new truck. The trip is about 250miles away. Decide this would be a nice long test drive so we went for it. About 70 miles into the trip the CEL goes on but the truck it running fine. We drive about 125miles and my son wants to get something to drink so we take the next exit and truck is wanting to stall as we come to the light. We hit the gas station and top off (we were just under a 1/2 tank) and poke around the engine compartment everything looks good. CEL is showing code 44 (left 02). Start it back up and the truck running fine.

Since its running fine full I decide to keep it above 1/2 tank and continue on our journey. The rest of the drive there was fine and no issues running around to games once we are there. Tournament is over so head home. We're approaching 1/2 tank and the truck is feeling sluggish so I take the next exit to fill up. It wants to stall as we come to a stop but i'm able to get to the pump. Gas up but this time when it starts it doesn't sound great. I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep idle and when we pull away it has no power. We pull over and catch a ride home with a teammate.

I grab a bunch of spares and head up this morning. Went to change the 02 sensor and noticed it was very loose, though maybe that was causing the fault. Pulled a plug and they were pretty white. Tried starting but the engine wouldn't start. Replaced all plugs and still no start.

Any ideas?

Would the coolant temp sensor or fuel temp sensor not allow a cold start?

How do I tell if the evap canister is venting properly? If you remove the gas cap after trying to start it for a while you can hear a gurgling in the tank.
 
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#2 ·
Ha ha ha I was gonna buy that truck! look for simple things first. Dying at stop light is classic vacuum leak symptom. Check all the hoses connected to the intake plenum especially the vacuum take off for the cruise control and the bypass air hose. white indicates lean condition as if it is getting too much air. Could also be the mass air sensor.
 
#7 ·
+1 on that, and check the fuel pump relays under the pass. seat. It has a fuel pump ECU under there too but those are usually pretty rock solid. My money is now on relays.
 
#9 ·
Finally trying to take another look at this. Fixed the vacuum leak for the cruise control (thanks Bill) and tried to start it again. All cylinders are firing, but it still won't start. Replaced the plugs with the AC Delco R43 XLS, local parts store does not stock the Champions. They are getting wet with fuel but won't ignite. Plugs are gapped and timing was set when I replaced the amplifier.

Any ideas?
 
#20 ·
I replaced the coil and ignition module on mine once. Drove fine for a few days in the city but crapped out on the first longer drive out of town. It had spark on all cylinders, but it was a little weak looking. Couldn't figure it out so towed it back to town. Replaced the brand new Lucas ignition module with the old original. Car fired back up immediately. It might be worth a try?
 
#25 ·
my Go to is always the Disti Rotor first - of course be careful pulling it off - replace and see what happens first.
they crack at the rivet and at the base and a hairline crack will arc down to the shaft and ground out.

kinda a classic no start issue - all rotors are crap these days
 
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