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  #1  
Old March 22nd, 2009, 10:30 PM
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Putting windows in a van side panels need template

Looks like I just bought Ren Ching's hand top. I have some fixed windows out of a fiberglass top and want to install them. Anyone have measurements or a template so I can put them in the right place?

Also, will a sawzall work to cut the hole?
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  #2  
Old March 22nd, 2009, 10:39 PM
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I think a sawzall will damage the sides, but you might be able to get away with it if you try a really fine tooth blade.

Maybe a nibbler or mark them and have someone with a plasma cut them?

Is the location the same as a SW side? I need a template for a factory SW
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Old March 22nd, 2009, 11:18 PM
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I want them the same as on a factory SW. They are the same size, they just don't open. If you find that template, I would like a copy.

Ron

PS might have to buy a nibbler.
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  #4  
Old March 22nd, 2009, 11:23 PM
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Ron, would a template out of the fiberglass top work or are they different? Also, what about water jet cutting?
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  #5  
Old March 22nd, 2009, 11:35 PM
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Fiberglass is different. Water jet would cost more than the top.

Ron
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  #6  
Old March 22nd, 2009, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
If you find that template, I would like a copy.
If anyone in Colorado has one I can copy I would be happy to share it with you.
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  #7  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 06:12 AM
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LenB did exactly what you are talking about. Shoot him a PM.
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  #8  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 07:51 AM
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I'd say if you can clamp a 2x4 (both sides) as both a guide and stiffener, it will cut fine with a sawsall, fine tooth blade, gentle touch and patience.... Oh who am I kidding. No Ron.

charles
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Old March 23rd, 2009, 08:45 AM
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jigsaw is probably better. they did one in one of the mags a few years ago. starting hole for the blade was done with a hatchet. they just put the window up, trace around it, then move the line in by 1/2" or just over the thickness of the mounting flange. the flange on my windows and one the ones madcow bought looked to be about 3/4" so the hole does not have to be perfect.

ron are you saying the tupperware-top windows do not open? I would look for some sliders if that is the case. something like this maybe:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Windo...mZ260303602922

or...

http://www.hehr-international.com/1900vanhome.htm


Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
I'd say if you can clamp a 2x4 (both sides) as both a guide and stiffener, it will cut fine with a sawsall, fine tooth blade, gentle touch and patience.... Oh who am I kidding. No Ron.

charles
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  #10  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 09:59 AM
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I don't want sliders.

Ron
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  #11  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 10:29 AM
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aah, ok. security issue? or just personal preference? I always wished my 109 had sliders to let some more air in/out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
I don't want sliders.

Ron
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  #12  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 10:31 AM
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No, just preference. Sliders rattle and break.
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  #13  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Sliders rattle
Same reason I am going to go with solid windows, most of the SW's I have been in the windows would rattle and leak.

If I change my mind and want the airflow later I can always install sliders
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  #14  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 01:03 PM
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A Sawzall is a dis-truction tool! VERY difficult to control under the best of circumstances !! I'd use a variable speed jig saw myself, with a new, very fine blade. Also, I'd duct tape over the whole area 1st, then draw my cut line on the duct tape. The fine cuttings will get under the saw and scratch the crap out of the finish on the paint. If possible, do it on the inside surface. Also, aluminum will tend to "gaul or load up" the blade, so the blade needs so type of lubrication on it to prevent this situation.

Dennis
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  #15  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 03:17 PM
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use a thin cut off wheel on an air grinder...
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  #16  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 03:26 PM
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Does it matter that I plan to paint after I cut?
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  #17  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 03:30 PM
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It's more about warping/bending the metal and the fact that aluminum likes to clog blades. A grinder with a cutting blade is probably the least damaging. Otherwise use a jigsaw and some fresh blades, but I'd still clamp some 2x4s to stiffen it and give you a guide edge.
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  #18  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 03:30 PM
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I would mask the area with blue painters tape or the like. you don't want any gouging caused by swarf getting under the shoe. Since they are off the car it should be pretty easy to just lay em flat and do a nice cut with a jigsaw. That is how I mostly did the cut for the bulkhead bar. if you get the template ready I can maybe borrow my neighbors jigsaw when I come up.

Quote:
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Does it matter that I plan to paint after I cut?
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  #19  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 03:35 PM
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I have a jigsaw somewhere.
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  #20  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 08:51 PM
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My vote would be for a plasma cutter or a cut-off wheel.
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