purpose of relays? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 14th, 2014, 10:39 AM
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Kevin C. Doyle
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purpose of relays?

Anybody willing to tell me the purpose of the two square relays (fuses, whatever) under passenger seat?

I can't find a diagram. Square, right next to each other about 1 inch by 1 inch?

1995 NAS Wagon...
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Old October 14th, 2014, 10:42 AM
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fuel pump
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  #3  
Old October 14th, 2014, 10:48 AM
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Fuel pump. Isn't it in the owners manual?
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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Old October 14th, 2014, 10:52 AM
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prolly...but..

Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Fuel pump. Isn't it in the owners manual?
don't have one at the office...

Why would one of them get hot to the touch and the other not?
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Old October 14th, 2014, 10:53 AM
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You're touching them in your office and one is hot and the other is not? Are we still talking about relays?
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Old October 14th, 2014, 11:04 AM
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Kevin C. Doyle
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Hah!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
You're touching them in your office and one is hot and the other is not? Are we still talking about relays?
Exactly...

I now have 3 issues with the 90 although I think the ignition switch is an easy fix, a bit more worried about the rear half axle or whatever, and the flickering of random lights on the dash warning panel...

I'm going to order the ignition switch from RN, replace it, and run it over to dealer for diagnosis...



Thanks Board!

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Old October 14th, 2014, 11:18 AM
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You might try rovahfarm for the switch. Lots less then genuine, unless that's what you want.

I'd also get 2 of the special shear bolts that mount the switch. Male Torque head bolts that snap off at the correct installed torque to prevent tampering. QRH100030

And you'll probably cut up the bottom steering lock clamp when trying to make a groove in the bolts to get them out with a screwdriver. I got a new one so it didn't look crappy. QRG100100 or QRG500010
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Old October 14th, 2014, 11:34 AM
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Are you sure you need the whole ignition lock & switch assembly ?
The switch is available as a separate item and Trevor at Rovahfarm has Lucas and other brands of the switch too. Also he ships USPS Priority which is much faster than UPS.
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Old October 14th, 2014, 01:01 PM
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Kevin C. Doyle
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Talked to Trevor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
You might try rovahfarm for the switch. Lots less then genuine, unless that's what you want.

I'd also get 2 of the special shear bolts that mount the switch. Male Torque head bolts that snap off at the correct installed torque to prevent tampering. QRH100030

And you'll probably cut up the bottom steering lock clamp when trying to make a groove in the bolts to get them out with a screwdriver. I got a new one so it didn't look crappy. QRG100100 or QRG500010


and sent him both posts to get his thoughts..

Thanks guys!!

------ Follow up post added October 14th, 2014 05:02 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
Are you sure you need the whole ignition lock & switch assembly ?
The switch is available as a separate item and Trevor at Rovahfarm has Lucas and other brands of the switch too. Also he ships USPS Priority which is much faster than UPS.
Thanks Source!
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  #10  
Old October 14th, 2014, 02:42 PM
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Chris Davis
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I opened up a spare switch that had "failed" and I don't have a clue what fails on these (or what was wrong with my switch). You have a few copper pads permanently mounted on the bottom half and then a pad that floats on the other half with with springs between the case and the pad that provide pressure contact between the two . There is also a spring with a ball bearing to make positive position feels and there is a "wound" spring that you have to turn your key past to start the starter and it returns you to the run position. Before I ever buy a new switch, I will always take a good look at my existing switch to see what went wrong.

There are only a few things I could see going wrong---either a spring or piece of plastic fails (which you would probably be able to feel), one of the contactor-to-connectors works loose, the contacts get dirty, or the case starts to come apart. All of which (with the exception of plastic breaking) would be an easy fix. I cleaned mine up and tossed it in the truck for a quick spare.

Here is an article on that you may find useful if you decide to go this route: http://www.jpurnell.com/rr/repairs/IgnitionSwitch.htm It is from a RRC, so not exact, but similar. These are very easy to take apart--there are three little intents on the case that you carefully pry out. When you press them back in, they make break, but that isn't such a hard fix...

best of luck---
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