Purists avert your eyes! I went and dun it - Page 2 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #21  
Old July 24th, 2014, 09:27 AM
tim
Status: Offline
Timothy Homewood
Defender 50th going topless
Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 114
Hi, Overfinch back in the day installed the electric windows an I assume the central locking on my 50th. It's a bit basic, involving bending the small arm of the anti-burst lock on the inside, a small section of coat hanger wire connected to a piston/servo mounted beneath to the door card...with a 'nice' leather covered alu box to cover it. Tim
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #22  
Old July 24th, 2014, 10:35 PM
Bill Larson's Avatar
Bill Larson
Status: Offline
Bill Larson
97 D90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: AUS
Posts: 6,563
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
Ha! you only have one door to open on a 2 door vehicle constantly!

Unlocking each door seperately gets old fast.
I just don't lock it...whats the point, the truck isn't designed for security...If someone broke into one of our trucks they would have to be crazy, First because of all of the crap on them and second because we drive/use them. You truck already says...yeah go ahead...screw with me if you'd like, punk! lol...
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old July 24th, 2014, 10:51 PM
Talleyrand's Avatar
Talleyrand
Status: Offline
John
1998 Defender 110 CSW 300Tdi
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Queens, NYC, NY
Posts: 812
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
as a token of effort to get that stupid mug.
Oops. You dissed the mug. No mug for you!
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #24  
Old August 1st, 2014, 01:28 PM
Overlander's Avatar
Overlander
Status: Offline
mark kellgren
in between D's in an 04 D2
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,531
Registry
So question to all. Before I install the powerlocks, I want to install convoluted grommets to all 4 doors for running the wires to the pillars. Doing some research, looks like the later model doors use part no YQQ000070



Is this the best one to use? Does anyone have these in their 110 that can share pics? Or is there a better one to use for my vehicle. What did pre-07's use, if any?

I also see AMR3963 which looks like it would be easier to install since it just needs a round hole drilled, not a shaped hole.



__________________
Mark Kellgren
KM4BOR

ISIL and al qaeda can go F*ck themselves...
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old August 2nd, 2014, 09:20 AM
Bill Larson's Avatar
Bill Larson
Status: Offline
Bill Larson
97 D90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: AUS
Posts: 6,563
Call Zack for the round hole tube. The door tubes are nla but you can use the rear door tube instead.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old August 2nd, 2014, 10:16 AM
Rover110
Status: Offline
Steve
1993 Defender 110 NAS #472
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: New York
Posts: 280
Do you think the tubes will affect the door closing properly/smoothly?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
So question to all. Before I install the powerlocks, I want to install convoluted grommets to all 4 doors for running the wires to the pillars. Doing some research, looks like the later model doors use part no YQQ000070



Is this the best one to use? Does anyone have these in their 110 that can share pics? Or is there a better one to use for my vehicle. What did pre-07's use, if any?

I also see AMR3963 which looks like it would be easier to install since it just needs a round hole drilled, not a shaped hole.


Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old August 2nd, 2014, 10:28 AM
KKilo23's Avatar
KKilo23
Status: Offline
Kenny
NAS SW l NAS ST l 110 SW | 110 Crew
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posts: 2,065
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
Call Zack for the round hole tube. The door tubes are nla but you can use the rear door tube instead.
Do you know the part number for the rear tube? Is it long enough?
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old August 2nd, 2014, 10:43 AM
rankar's Avatar
rankar
Status: Offline
Randy
97 SW #2236 (Maggie)
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 1,117
Registry
Isn't the rear door tube even longer, risking some binding when the door closes?
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old August 5th, 2014, 10:06 PM
crown14's Avatar
crown14
Status: Offline
Verticalscrote
Volkswagen Super Beetle
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: 44 Nas Row, Inter Net, USA
Posts: 3,285
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
I'm surprised you aren't doing the safari door. Overland equipt trucks like ours have so much stuff in them, that I get paranoid every night if I don't go out in the driveway and check every door to make sure I lock them. I usually don't lock my doors when I pull in the driveway, and If I'm doin some project, then a few get unlocked, and I forget which ones. Even more so in parking lots of retail stores. I know for a fact that there are a LOT of lookyloos in parking lots when I'm not there.
PROTECTED BY VIPER! STAND BACK!

http://youtu.be/3p06XHHRvpk

http://youtu.be/vEbXOxGbIUI

------ Follow up post added August 5th, 2014 10:14 PM ------

http://youtu.be/Dm5RHhqTeF4
__________________
Note: The maximum size of your custom image is 500 by 100 pixels or 19.5 KB (whichever is smaller).
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old August 21st, 2014, 03:40 PM
Overlander's Avatar
Overlander
Status: Offline
mark kellgren
in between D's in an 04 D2
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,531
Registry
So Trevor has my grommets on the way. Dave at Urban confirmed that grommet was the correct part all four doors. In the meantime, would someone with this later TD5 style grommet installed in their doors please take a pic so I can see where exactly the grommet fits in the pillar and door frame? I would also really appreciate a measurement of how far up on each side they go so I know where to drill and cut the hole for the grommet, that will allow the grommet the correct slack for opening/closing of the door. I'm going to have to make a template for both ends of the grommet to cut and file to shape, and don't want to F' that up.
__________________
Mark Kellgren
KM4BOR

ISIL and al qaeda can go F*ck themselves...
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old September 14th, 2014, 03:08 PM
Overlander's Avatar
Overlander
Status: Offline
mark kellgren
in between D's in an 04 D2
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,531
Registry
It is DONE! Central lock is such a damn luxury now. I love it! It was easier than I thought, but tougher than I though in certain steps. Here's the skinny:

Pulled muduk console panel, as I wanted to install the central lock control module, and remote module (two seperate ECU's..now I have 3 including AC) well above wading line and easily accessible for maintenance. The remote module also has a 6" antennae so you want that up high and not behind a bunch of metal because it effects your remote FOB range.

So once console was out, I cut a hot to fit a grommet in the muduk backing plate, so i can run the harngess behind trim and through bulkhead to engine bay.



Once those modules were installed and grommet installed in backing plate, I connected the harness and then using my long coat hanger fishing tool, I ran harness out through the oval plug on top right side of bulkhead for shortest distance.

first tip:
-the harness is sided. that means wires meant for one side of vehicle are not same length as wires on the other side. The front doors are both wired as master actuators with 5 wires to each one. Master means if you manually lock/unlock that door, all the rest do the same automatically. The back door actuators are 2 wire slaves. Since I am centrally mounting the modules relative to the vehicle centerline, what I found was that I had excess wire length on one side, and insufficient length on the other. you need to be prepared to splice wires for extra length if you do this with the CK4000. I had to extend the 2 wires harness for each back door by about one foot each, and cut about a foot from drivers side front to passenger side front. This was unexpected and added about 1.5 hour additional time to project. knowing this, if I did it again, I would cut all the bullet connectors from the harness off at about 6" and prepared to extend them all in length with colored wire I have onhand. (brown, green, white, orange, yellow).

once the wires were in the bulkhead, I split the harness to left and right side. I also added a battery and ignition feed wire running from my aux panel in the engine bay to the modules. Both modules need power and ground, separate from the actuator leads, and the remote module has a bunch of extra wires (negative trigger) that can be used for add on functions which is cool. I will add a relay to get the parking lights to flash later.

So next was to figure out how to feed the 5 wires to the front doors from the engine bay. There is a engine bay side grommet that is nothing short of a BITCH to try and feed stuff to, that is used for the door switch that controls the courtesy lights. That's the best spot.

I had a hole drilled on the opposite side of that on both sides of the A pillars (right where that little screw goes that holds the plastic L shaped trim pieces that covers the doors stop), but those holes are not factory. I'm assuming pendy drilled those after painting my bulkhead during my restoration and they are convenient, but also require something bespoke to allow that trim pieces to fit back on held by that screw, which I will solve later with some kind of plug.


This exercise of how to run wires to the doors is by far the biggest effort of this whole project. Through those holes, I cut hanger wires fishing tools through each one to the bulkhead side, then attached my front door 5 wire harness to each, tapes all together, and pulled them through. This is where not having the bullets on there would have made it much easier. Now the hole where they need to come out of the A pillar to cross over to the door doesn't exist in old bulkheads, so I had to create the hole on the A and B pillars to complete my job.

In this pic you can see the hole for a driver side courtesy light switch and it's retaining screw, but no hole for a factory convoluted door grommet


If you want to go fancy like I did, I used the proper later model convoluted grommet (LR part no YQQ000070) which requires a rectangular hole. I had a harbor freight nibbler which was perfect for this job. With grommets in hand (sourced from Trevor), I made a cardboard template, then transfered to a clear plastic template, and then I cut the hole out of the template to use on the pillars.


Then I place the template in standardize location from a known point on both front pillars (I think about 1" below the courtesy light switch retention screw, but the grommet allows for tolerance in variation. I used a sharpie to mark the hole ID outline, drilled a starter hole and went to town with the nibbler. Finished it with some filing than a coating of POR15 to prevent rust.




After that, used another coat hanger fishing tool ( I needed about 5 for this project) to pull the 5 wires I had pulled through to the higher hole, down to my new grommet hole and then out.


Once those were out, this is point where you pull excess completely through, run the harness across to the door, and determine how much additional length you need to reach the actuator at end of the door. Again, about 1 foot is a good safe assumption.

With that, done, I spliced the wires to correct length, then used a coat hanger fishing tool to run them through the grommet, then installed the grommet. TIP: spray grommet interior with armor all to make the wires slide through easily.
Install the grommet, and that pillar is done. same steps for opposite front door.
Completed, I had a tidy grommet harness.
__________________
Mark Kellgren
KM4BOR

ISIL and al qaeda can go F*ck themselves...
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old September 14th, 2014, 03:12 PM
Arcadeus's Avatar
Arcadeus
Status: Offline
Mark Bichin
97 NAS Station Wagon LE
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,209
Registry
Any pics of that back door setup?
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old September 14th, 2014, 03:28 PM
Overlander's Avatar
Overlander
Status: Offline
mark kellgren
in between D's in an 04 D2
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,531
Registry
Now it was time to install the actuator in the door. This part is easy. remove the door card off. you may have to pull away your range dust plastic if you have it so you can get to the outer door part with the door latch linkage. Then you figure out where to best put the actuator. It needs to operate up and down parallel to the vertical linkage for the door lock. You can bend the provided actuator linkage in right turns to make up the horizontal difference, but no angles other than 90 deg. you mount the actuator using a mounting strap. For the front doors, the metal strap provided to mount the actuators was sufficient length, but for the back door the ones that came with the CK4000 were too short for Defender doors. You need at last 9 inch straps for the middle row doors. ordered these online for about $1 apiece, but had to wait for them to come in. I would recommend for a 110 or 130, order 4. while I was able to get the fronts on with the provided straps, it would be better to have the strap secured at two positions, not one.

I drilled a screw hole on the middle support for the upper screw, and installed a rivnut for the lower strap mounting, then bent the strap to fit and position, making sure the actuator was inline and parallel with the linkage, would clear the glass when lowered, and would clear the trim door card when on.

Once the actuator is in, you have to use pliers to bent the actuator rod, to line up with the vertical lock linkage. I trimmed off the excess so it wouldn't foul the door when unlocked. The actuator rod connects to the linkage using a little 3 screw adapter clamp. If you screw the screws too tight, the clamp fractures and there are no extras. I had to have Autoloc tech support send me extras to finish the job since I broke one.


once the actuator is in, I put some wiring clamps in using existing 10mm bolts to secure the harness along the door width, connected the harness and then tested the remote. you may have to adjust the clamp to make sure it opens and closes consistently. I was impressed with how quiet the actuators are. So much so that I am motivated to hook up the parking lights to the module so I know it locks/unlocks.


------ Follow up post added September 14th, 2014 03:30 PM ------

I'll finish this story with the backdoor little later.
__________________
Mark Kellgren
KM4BOR

ISIL and al qaeda can go F*ck themselves...
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old September 14th, 2014, 03:36 PM
Videoguy
Status: Offline
Ron
1997 Defender 90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Palm Desert, CA
Posts: 35
I just did my 97 D90. The front doors are a little tight but the actuators mounted ok. I used all two wire actuators from ebay to simplify the process. Mounted the Viper control in the console next to the radio. Range is good..
The back door is another story. The problem is clearance for the linkage. I had to put a dog leg in the middle of the linkage and a small slot in the door cover panel for the linkage. It must travel vertical to work right. The linkage attached to the lock tab, there is no other choice. The linkage must travel up and down with no interference from the door panel. I even put a couple washers between the panel and door to keep the panel out away from the door a little.....and finally, the door latch must be adjusted so that the locking arm travels fully around the mating stud. If it does not, the actuator cannot push the tab up enough to lock.
Sorry I do not have pics of this.
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old September 14th, 2014, 03:37 PM
Bill Larson's Avatar
Bill Larson
Status: Offline
Bill Larson
97 D90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: AUS
Posts: 6,563
There goes the resale value...would you mine if I stole your 110 for the weekend...it needs some TLC...I'm in the mood for a weekend of Southpark, Firebirds and my favorite 4 Star Hotel...oh yeah the Rock Store for some real NC BBQ!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
400hp engine swap? purists skip this thread.. phoenix37 Smaller Projects 54 February 21st, 2012 01:23 PM
Purists, don't look here!!! Buckon37s Misc. Chit-Chat 45 September 16th, 2009 09:50 PM
Avert your eyes! LenB Misc. Chit-Chat 16 March 30th, 2007 12:52 AM
Nice little tidbit for your eyes!! Bowtracer Misc. Chit-Chat 7 August 31st, 2006 06:01 PM
Keep your eyes open Coiler Misc. Chit-Chat 1 July 24th, 2006 11:15 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:56 PM.


Copyright