Puma 2nd row seats in older Defender - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 22nd, 2015, 11:00 AM
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Puma 2nd row seats in older Defender

I have a few second row rear seats of new Puma 110. Installing these in an older Defender requires some modification to the tub. Has anybody done this or does anybody now of a conversion kit.


With google I found this one:



This is NOT how I want to do it....with wood......


Want to do it the nice way.
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  #2  
Old October 22nd, 2015, 11:09 AM
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Johan,
It looks like you could use 3/4" square or rectangular steel stock and make some spacers so the bracket is elevated in place. Spray it black and it should look stock.
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  #3  
Old October 31st, 2015, 04:21 AM
apeerlessdude
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If you'd like pm me and I will point you in the right direction.
Thanks

------ Follow up post added October 31st, 2015 02:31 AM ------

If you'd like pm me and I will point you in the right direction.
Thanks
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  #4  
Old October 31st, 2015, 10:56 AM
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Am very interested in this too. Let us know what you come up with, Johan. Preferably a full kit that we can buy to do the install! :thumb
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  #5  
Old October 31st, 2015, 01:06 PM
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I'm doing this conversion right now in my Td5.

110 Td5 renovation thread - Defender Source

As easy as the video makes it seem, there are a couple HUGE things that are just sort of skipped over.

A) Is he really anchoring the seats to the aluminum upstand? There is a cross member that runs behind the upstand that the original seats were bolted to. The old 60/40 bencjh bolts through the aluminum to that steel cross member, The new seats are anchored in different locations. If you anchor to the aluminum floor, and not to the frame there is no structural strength, he's put a large square washer there instead., In an accident it would just tear through the aluminum floor.

B) the rear plate they say "Steel anchor plates were fitted under floorpan" Easier said than done. There isn't any room there to mount to the frame (space for the brackets, but no room to bolt them in) Again, he's just mounting the seats to the aluminum floor. Completely un-safe. Not to mention, with the plywood spacer there, the seats are in an almost vertical position, making them extremely uncomfortable. When you see him in the seat, look at how high up he is in comparison to the door.

There are 2 options to properly fit these seats:

1) lift the body to gain access to the frame and cross members, install the correct crossmember to bolt to the frame and seats, bolt the correct brackets for the rear plate mounting. Now the seats are securely mounted to the frame, not the floor.

2) the route I am going, removing and replacing the rear upstand, which gives access to replacing the crossmember and being able to have clearance to bolt the rear mounting plate brackets in. Modify the front of the inner fender well for clearance of the seats.

In the first photo you can see the old style bench seat front mounts. Compare to the front mounting points for Puma seats in photo 2. They don't line up, and there are actually 4 points to mount the seats and this is affixed directly to the frame. The 2 tab crossmember can be replaced with the Puma one once the upstand is removed.

In the second picture, you can see the rear plate mounts are bolted to the frame crossmember. Unless you lift the body, or remove the upstand (as per photo1) you can't get in there to secure the brackets.

Third photo shows just where the mounting plate will bolt through the floor. Without those brackets, you aren't bolted to the frame.

With his method you do have Puma rear seats, but they are unsafe, and would be uncomfortable to sit in.
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  #6  
Old October 31st, 2015, 05:41 PM
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Very good points, Scott. You are taking a good approach there. So the brackets and crossmember are genuine LR parts then? I guess the option 3 would be to buy a Puma 110 rear tub if you can find one. Fabbing a revised seat box sounds well beyond my limited skill set ...
It looks like you would have to remove the tub to get those brackets in place, no?
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  #7  
Old October 31st, 2015, 07:22 PM
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YRM - Galvanised 110/Station Wagon Mid Crossmember tdci onwards (2007) Product no.: 053B
Land Rover Defender Hot Dipped Galvanised
110/Station Wagon Mid Crossmember tdci onwards (2007) - YRM Metal Solutions



YRM - LWB 2nd Row Footwell to Rear Floor UpstandProduct no.: 114B-0001
Land Rover Defender 110/Station Wagon & Series LWB 2nd Row Footwell to Rear Floor Upstand - YRM Metal Solutions


Land Rover Defender & Series Floor End Caps (next to C post) Product no.: 108-0001
Land Rover Defender & Series Floor End Caps (next to C post) - YRM Metal Solutions

Rear seat plate are Genuine LR - part # AQR710290

AQR710290 | REINFORCEMENT - REAR SEAT SUPPORT DEF | Land Rover | | Britcar (UK) Ltd

I'll be updating my mod post on the process as I move along.


110 Td5 renovation thread - Defender Source

Next step is to cut out the floor. I should be on that early this week.
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  #8  
Old October 31st, 2015, 08:00 PM
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What a great thread. This is really useful info. Thanks!
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  #9  
Old October 31st, 2015, 08:04 PM
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Thanks for the comments. I will keep watching this. Very interested.
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  #10  
Old November 1st, 2015, 01:16 AM
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Oops... forgot 1 part....

110/Station Wagon & Series LWB Underfloor Support Aluminium
Product no.: 117A-0001

Land Rover Defender 110/Station Wagon & Series LWB Underfloor Support Aluminium - YRM Metal Solutions
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  #11  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 08:21 AM
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I put a Puma 2nd row seat into my NAS D110 - I agree that video posted doesn't work - the resulting seat position is really unusable (leaning too far forward no matter how much you shim the mounts) not too mention the other issues around safety concerns. I saw no way to do this without cutting the rear tub inner fender well as Scott notes above. Someone should make a kit for this. I ended up buying 4" x 4" square aluminum tubing and cutting it so I had a drop in recessed cavity which I could rivet in place. I saw other posts here and elsewhere about how they did this - not easy or necessarily as clean looking as I would want but it works and using the square stock as a base made it somewhat simpler as less pieces to have to cut and blend together.

AndrewT
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  #12  
Old March 14th, 2016, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lesandjes View Post
I put a Puma 2nd row seat into my NAS D110 - I agree that video posted doesn't work - the resulting seat position is really unusable (leaning too far forward no matter how much you shim the mounts) not too mention the other issues around safety concerns. I saw no way to do this without cutting the rear tub inner fender well as Scott notes above. Someone should make a kit for this. I ended up buying 4" x 4" square aluminum tubing and cutting it so I had a drop in recessed cavity which I could rivet in place. I saw other posts here and elsewhere about how they did this - not easy or necessarily as clean looking as I would want but it works and using the square stock as a base made it somewhat simpler as less pieces to have to cut and blend together.

AndrewT

Can you show me pictures AndrewT. I am in the progress now.
greetings,
JNN
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  #13  
Old March 14th, 2016, 05:55 PM
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Before I started using Puma tubs, I had a 1 inch rail cut. Powdercoated and covered in carpet. It leveled the seat, but the down side is that 1 inch does make a difference for seating comfort on shorter legs. Taller people are now 1 inch closer to the ceiling.
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  #14  
Old March 21st, 2016, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Himalaya View Post
Before I started using Puma tubs, I had a 1 inch rail cut. Powdercoated and covered in carpet. It leveled the seat, but the down side is that 1 inch does make a difference for seating comfort on shorter legs. Taller people are now 1 inch closer to the ceiling.
How did you attach the seats to the chassis? Did you follow the above? Thanks, Mark.
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