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  #1  
Old May 14th, 2014, 08:49 PM
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mattarm
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Matt
1993 D110
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Prune Harness

Looking for advice or thoughts relative to whether you would prune unneeded parts of wiring harness or just tape or tie it off. Example would be going from fuel injection to motor not requiring computer. Thoughts?
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  #2  
Old May 14th, 2014, 08:57 PM
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Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
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Registry
get the proper harness
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  #3  
Old May 15th, 2014, 10:24 AM
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Sam
1994 NAS SW
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If you do use the existing harness just tape off for you don't need. You never know, maybe in five years from now you'll want to switch it back to fuel injection
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  #4  
Old May 16th, 2014, 09:42 AM
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Chris Davis
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My exception are the lousy bullet connectors that are exposed to the elements.
Those I cut and either swap to a proper wet location connector, crimp or solder.
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  #5  
Old July 25th, 2015, 02:05 PM
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Matt
1993 D110
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I have decided to go ahead an prune the existing harness. My plan is to remove all connections from the main harness that support:

  • Gauges
  • Connections to ECU harness
  • Connections to engine harness
  • Connections to MFI harness
I have the main harness out of the vehicle. Seems as straightforward as identifying the proper wires, and tracing them back to the fuse block and removing. This will be my first attempt at harness modification. Anything I am overlooking, or should be on the lookout for?
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  #6  
Old September 30th, 2015, 11:59 PM
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Matt
1993 D110
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A few questions

I have sourced a generic LR Chassis harness (PRC4970) from Safari HP. The harness has all standard wiring for taillights, signals, fuel pump, etc. I need to add to the harness as I have a newer door which has wiper, 3rd brake light and heated screen. I want to match the wiring colors from the door for the new wires I am adding to the harness. It looks like autosparks.co.uk has the matching wire colors I need.

Not being that familiar with automotive wiring, what is the difference between "thinwall" and PVC. My gut tells me I am looking for PVC, but I wanted to make sure.

Additionally, I had estimated my needed wire size based on AWG of 14 and 16 gauge based on the door wiring but I have learned that the British wiring is based on what appears to be a strand value. It looks like the 17 Amp Cable - PVC 28/0.30 strand is the equivalent to 14 gauge, but I cannot seem to find a 16 gauge equivalent. I am thinking I should be looking at the 8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30.

The heavier gauge wire appears to run the heated glass on the rear door and the lighter gauge wires are for wiper and 3rd brake light.

Any assistance greatly appreciated.
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  #7  
Old October 1st, 2015, 12:24 AM
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Chris Snell
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British Wiring will have all of the properly, uh, coloured wiring. You want PVC.

Do yourself a favor and run the wire on top of the frame instead of inside. Get some heavy-walled, adhesive-lined, chemical resistant, 3:1 heat shrink and encase the harness in it. The heat shrink I used was incredibly thick and took over an hour to shrink a chassis-length with a heat gun. The result was protection for the harness that is nearly bullet-proof. Seriously, you have to cut this stuff with a hacksaw and it's not easy. My harness will never chafe on the frame outlets/inlets and very little of it is exposed to the elements. Replacing a harness is one of the biggest pains in the asses on the truck and you never want to do it again.

http://www.heatshrink.com/heat_shrin.../cfw_u_spl.asp

I can't find the exact part number because I ordered over the phone but that was where I bought it.
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