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  #21  
Old July 23rd, 2012, 01:02 PM
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Tom Rowe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
If memory serves, one would want to remove the shaft side cups first before the yoke side.
They are both yokes.
One is a flange yoke and the other is a tube or end yoke, depending on which end of the propshaft he's working on.
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  #22  
Old July 23rd, 2012, 01:34 PM
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Tom, I'm gonna start sending you all my copy to edit.

------ Follow up post added July 23rd, 2012 01:39 PM ------

My niece recently spun out in her disco. It pitch poled the rear drive shaft among other things. The drive shaft was OK, but the, what's that called Tom, the FLANGE yoke?, ripped apart at the thin portion where the cups go. The steel s apparently made so as to stretch and snap instead of the drive shaft.
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  #23  
Old July 23rd, 2012, 02:31 PM
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Tom Rowe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Tom, I'm gonna start sending you all my copy to edit.
Only if I can send you mine.
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  #24  
Old July 23rd, 2012, 08:20 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I figured this out after the fact and I did exactly as you described except I hit the yoke. The rocket scientist that I am I placed the socket on the bottom and hit the yoke from the top so that I could see it pop up. Worked really well when I took the yoke off from the shaft (which I realized later that I should have done last) but not so much once the Yoke was off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
If memory serves, one would want to remove the shaft side cups first before the yoke side. In this way, you don't really need a vise. Use an old socket of the approximate diameter of the inside of the cup bore, and knock the cup out from the opposite side, then flip and repeat.
With the yoke off the shaft, you should be able to knock the cups out by the same method as above. You could use a large socket on a concrete floor and whack downward. A little sporty to try to hang on to all that mess and still get the hammer on the proper target, but do-able. No need to hit the shaft or yoke under any circumstance, vise or no vise.
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  #25  
Old July 23rd, 2012, 08:23 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I don't think I have damaged the bore but in hitting the end of the yoke I may have creased the edge so that the cups won't come out fully. I am able to move the spider back and forth but not come out far enough on either end in order for me to can grab it. I learned a lesson though. Never hit the yoke.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Don't worry about the hammer marks. Though, you should not have to hit the u joint too hard to get the cups moving. If you damaged the bore that the cup goes into, you can get away with a little judicious filing as long as it is just at one end of the bore. BTDT.

My gut feeling is that lots of bad things will happen in your drivetrain before the potentially decreased performance of those yokes becomes a factor.

Using a hammer to get the u joints apart actually works quite well and reduces the odds of one of the cups going diagonal and really ruining the bore. Doesn't much help with getting them in though...

And its a yoke, not a yolk. Yolks are yellow and usually appear on breakfast plates. That is really the best way to tell the difference.
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  #26  
Old July 23rd, 2012, 08:30 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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In hitting the Yoke with a hammer (yes I'm an idiot and I will never do it again) I hit the edge of the flange and created a slight dent on the flat machined surface that attaches to the output flange. In the third picture you can see a slight dent at 3 o'clock. Is this a problem? Will it cause imbalance? I'm worried that I have ruined the Yoke and I am considering buying a new prop shaft just to be safe, unless I can get a replacement yoke somewhere?
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  #27  
Old July 23rd, 2012, 08:35 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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This is what my brand new rear prop shaft looked out of the box. Is it me or are they always crummy looking with peeling paint like this? Perhaps its "ok" in british standards. One of the cups was shattered and fell apart as I poked it. Still waiting to hear back from Paddocks on return/replacement.
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  #28  
Old July 24th, 2012, 05:35 AM
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Tom Rowe
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Where you deformed the flange isn't that critical. You can file it down so it's flush and you should be ok.
Same for the area around the cups possibly. I can't really see how bad it is from the photo.

I have to ask, why did you have one shipped from the UK vs Tom Woods or GBR? It's hard to believe it was cheaper with shipping and everything.
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  #29  
Old July 24th, 2012, 06:55 AM
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Or even pop the 40 clams for two u joints?
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  #30  
Old July 24th, 2012, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyddog11 View Post
To hold the output flange I prefer a piece of heavy steel (1/4" x 2" x 24") with 2 of the 4 holes for the drive shaft drilled in it. then you can just bolt it on and not have to worry about things flying and or damage to the bolts.
That's almost exactly the tool I made up

------ Follow up post added July 24th, 2012 01:01 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
This is what my brand new rear prop shaft looked out of the box. Is it me or are they always crummy looking with peeling paint like this? Perhaps its "ok" in british standards. One of the cups was shattered and fell apart as I poked it. Still waiting to hear back from Paddocks on return/replacement.
The prop must have been put together by a gorilla, was it cheap?
Personally I only use a oft faced mallet to disassemble yokes and hammering plays no part in reassembly at all.
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  #31  
Old July 24th, 2012, 08:38 AM
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In the past I've used a ball peen hammer to get the cups out, but some years back I finally bought a brass hammer.
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Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
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  #32  
Old July 24th, 2012, 09:01 AM
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Out of the Tom Woods and GBR prop shafts, which one would you recommend? What are the pros and cons of each? I am considering getting rid of these and buying something better. Is it a waste to get double cardan if I don't have a lift? Will off road articulation create premature wear on the joints?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Antichrist
Where you deformed the flange isn't that critical. You can file it down so it's flush and you should be ok.
Same for the area around the cups possibly. I can't really see how bad it is from the photo.

I have to ask, why did you have one shipped from the UK vs Tom Woods or GBR? It's hard to believe it was cheaper with shipping and everything.
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  #33  
Old July 24th, 2012, 09:03 AM
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I got 4 HD U-joints for 8 ($12) each along with two prop shafts. I figured I would replace the whole thing just to be safe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea
Or even pop the 40 clams for two u joints?
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  #34  
Old July 24th, 2012, 09:05 AM
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They were cheap and now I have buyers remorse. You get what you pay for is what I usually tell people. I should listen to myself more often

I paid $92 for the front, $127 for the rear and $113 in shipping. Is it worth 3X to get Tom Woods or GBR instead?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover
The prop must have been put together by a gorilla, was it cheap?
Personally I only use a oft faced mallet to disassemble yokes and hammering plays no part in reassembly at all.
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  #35  
Old July 24th, 2012, 11:50 AM
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I have a GBR DC on the rear of my Disco. Stock propshafts on everything else.
Lot's of people run TW.
What's the matter with your original propshafts? Unless they are damaged or have excessive spline wear just replace the u-joints in them and call it good.
No need for a DC shaft without a lift if your pinion angles are correct. Even with a lift if you keep your pinion angles correct you don't need a DC shaft until you get to around 2-3".
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  #36  
Old July 24th, 2012, 12:24 PM
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Just an additional note to Carl, if you damaged the yokes to the point where the cups will not easily exit out the top of the bore, then you need to use a torch or a cutting wheel to cut up the cross and then push the cups out the bottoms of the bores. Then lightly file or dremel or whatever just around the top of the bore so that the new cups can go in. Don't file all the way down the bore or it will be out of round and the cup will have a tendency to start moving in the bore. Not desireable...
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  #37  
Old July 24th, 2012, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Out of the Tom Woods and GBR prop shafts, which one would you recommend? What are the pros and cons of each? I am considering getting rid of these and buying something better. Is it a waste to get double cardan if I don't have a lift? Will off road articulation create premature wear on the joints?

No difference since, as far as I can tell, they use stock Spicer components. In fact, any local drive shaft shop can make one for you. Only real down side is the fact that you kinda have to take the shaft loose to get into the low profile type grease nipples on the CV. So if you are like me and do the quarterly lube thing, it's bit of a drawback over regular shaft set up.
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  #38  
Old July 24th, 2012, 12:41 PM
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I am still trying to figure out how the shaft could have gotten that messed up without being in some kind of extremely horrific wreck. The cup, adnittedly made from brittle sintered or cast iron, has pushed the snap ring almost out of its groove. That's mega. Yah that would scrape some paint off fer sher.
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  #39  
Old July 24th, 2012, 12:44 PM
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Me too! It doesn't look like something that could occur in shipping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea
I am still trying to figure out how the shaft could have gotten that messed up without being in some kind of extremely horrific wreck. The cup, adnittedly made from brittle sintered or cast iron, has pushed the snap ring almost out of its groove. That's mega. Yah that would scrape some paint off fer sher.
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  #40  
Old July 24th, 2012, 02:51 PM
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Me too! It doesn't look like something that could occur in shipping.
It would be hard to imagine that happening in shipping even if it was shipped un-packaged and a bucket loader was used to move it around.
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