Proline U-Joint - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 18th, 2011, 08:41 AM
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Andrew Dance
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Proline U-Joint

anyone have experience with the Proline U-Joints from RN?
$18 vs $49 for the OEM
Are they well made or should I go with the Land Rover ones?

Thanks

Andrew
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  #2  
Old July 18th, 2011, 09:22 AM
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Tom Rowe
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I wouldn't use either. Well, I've never used the Proline so I probably wouldn't use it. The OEM I'd use as a last resort just because of the price.

For the 1300 series u-joints, Neapco/PDQ 1-0005 ($12.50 from Advance Auto) or Precision, about $25 from your local autoparts store. Both are made in USA.
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  #3  
Old July 18th, 2011, 09:54 AM
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Precision 344 from NAPA they even told me they had a lifetime warranty which is a good thing, as my Classic loves em..
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  #4  
Old July 18th, 2011, 11:28 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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You can use Dana also, supposed to be good stuff.
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  #5  
Old July 18th, 2011, 12:00 PM
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Don't go cheapfuck on a u-joint. You don't want to replace one on the trail.
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  #6  
Old July 18th, 2011, 01:06 PM
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Jake K.
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If you keep'em greased you shouldn't have to replace them ever unless your angles are really outta whack. On another note...the Proline one's seem to go together much easier than any of the the others out there and I think I've tried all of them over the years. However I don't know if that's a good thing?
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  #7  
Old July 18th, 2011, 07:45 PM
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Tom Rowe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD View Post
You can use Dana also, supposed to be good stuff.
If you mean the Spicer division of Dana, they haven't made the 5-4x 1300 series u-joint in several years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Don't go cheapfuck on a u-joint. You don't want to replace one on the trail.
Absolutely. That's why I suggested Neapco or Precision.
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Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
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  #8  
Old December 20th, 2011, 10:39 PM
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Peter Stolz
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part number help

So to beat a dead fricking horse to a pulp, I have a '94 D-90 and a '99 Disco I. I'm replacing the ujoints on the Disco. I have spares for the D-90 that are PDQ 1-5900 and 1-0278. I also have a Precision 344 laying here.

Both of the PDQ's are the same length cap to cap, and have the same cap diameter, except the 1-5900 has a groove in the cap to put a clip around the outside of it, the 1-0278 is just smooth and the clip goes on the end of the cap. the 1-0278 has USA stamped on it.

I'm not sure where I got those part numbers, but when I got them several years ago, I labeled the 1-5900 to go on the front shaft, front position as well as the rear shaft, rear position. I labeled the 1-0278 to go on the front shaft, rear position, and the rear shaft, front position.

Can anybody tell me if that's right, and if I can use those same ujoints on my D1 (I assume I can, and no double cardon shafts), or if I can use one single part number for all four ujoints on the D1 and on the D-90? I'm so confused....

edit: I just measured them up against the 344 and they're longer cap to cap than the 344. So I'm wondering if I got the wrong part number with the PDQ's all those years ago...
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  #9  
Old December 21st, 2011, 09:23 AM
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Tom Rowe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peachyracer View Post
edit: I just measured them up against the 344 and they're longer cap to cap than the 344. So I'm wondering if I got the wrong part number with the PDQ's all those years ago...
Sounds like it. The 1-0278 and 1-5900 appear (from the Neapco catalog) to be 1310 series u-joints, not what you need. The 344 is right for your D90 and D1 if you still have stock propshafts.
Sounds like maybe they were bought based on dimension rather than application or cross over from the correct u-joint. Did you ever own a Ford? That's the main vehicle listed.

If the boxes are in good shape see if you can take them to Advance Auto to trade for a couple of 1-0005. The ones you have are a dollar or two cheaper, so expect to pay a bit more.
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  #10  
Old December 21st, 2011, 09:46 AM
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mark kellgren
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What is the equivalent on the rear shaft for a NAS 110? I've always assumed it's different from a D90 due to the sals but never confirmed.
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  #11  
Old December 21st, 2011, 10:09 AM
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Peter Stolz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antichrist View Post
Sounds like it. The 1-0278 and 1-5900 appear (from the Neapco catalog) to be 1310 series u-joints, not what you need. The 344 is right for your D90 and D1 if you still have stock propshafts.
Sounds like maybe they were bought based on dimension rather than application or cross over from the correct u-joint. Did you ever own a Ford? That's the main vehicle listed.
Thanks, Tom! Mystery solved!! I had them marked correctly, but I didn't mark which vehicle they were for and accidentally put them in the Defender spares box. I SHOULD have put "Bronco" on the boxes (and have now done), referencing the fact that they're for my 1974 FORD frickin' Bronco. I'm such an idiot.

After I posted that, I was poking around and found the thread you posted about propshaft rebuilds. Brilliant! I was down in Atlanta (actually Braselton/Flowery Branch) in October for work. Would have loved to come over and check out the current inventory.
Thanks again!
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  #12  
Old December 21st, 2011, 08:46 PM
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Tom Rowe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
What is the equivalent on the rear shaft for a NAS 110? I've always assumed it's different from a D90 due to the sals but never confirmed.
I thought that got answered in this thread: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=26781

Quote:
Originally Posted by peachyracer View Post
Thanks, Tom! Mystery solved!! I had them marked correctly, but I didn't mark which vehicle they were for and accidentally put them in the Defender spares box. I SHOULD have put "Bronco" on the boxes (and have now done), referencing the fact that they're for my 1974 FORD frickin' Bronco. I'm such an idiot.
Glad I've never done anything like that.
Glad to help.
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Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
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62 88 Regular
67 109 6cyl NADA x2
74 Lightweight - The Antichrist
95 DI 5-speed
95 D90 5-speed
97 D1 Automatic
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  #13  
Old December 21st, 2011, 09:13 PM
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mark kellgren
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oK, you got me! yes, I've lost track of my threads. Reading through the rest of that thread, nobody with an NAS 110 appeared to ever chime in to confirm.

So I'll go with your answer as it seems the 86' on is the 1300:

RN lists the u-joints as:
D110 front and rear, D90 rear only
D90 Front
D90, D110 Front and Rear.

Hard to tell from that, so someone else will have to say.
But I'm sure they are either:
1300 series
2.938" cap to cap and 1.063" cap dia
Neapco 1-0005
Precision 344
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  #14  
Old January 27th, 2012, 09:10 PM
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Rick
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FWIW there's a big difference in uni's even if the OE ones look like standard 1300 series, the diameter of the cross is much larger in the OE style GKN's. Can't recall the part # ATM, but the last invoice is here somewhere. I pinched these photo's from LR4x4.

Some TD5's had a 1300 and 1310 uni in the front shaft, and some had two 1310's, just to confuse things even further, but I doubt you'd have too many post '99's running around NA.
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