Problematic Brake Drum - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 25th, 2006, 09:51 PM
punter
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Scott
1966 Series IIA
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Problematic Brake Drum

Anyone have a trick for removing a stuck brake drum?

I'm about to just disassemble the hub assembly; remove the hub and drum together; then try to bang 'em apart.

...hoping that someone's got a better idea.
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  #2  
Old November 25th, 2006, 10:52 PM
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Hans Haase
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There are brake drums that aren't stuck? I've almost never had one come off easily, and the ones I did get off easily.... they were missing parts.

Usually you want to back off the star adjuster first, which is accessed through a hole in the backing plate. This releases the tension from the pads themselves, you would want to check the manual on how to do this. (please, do this with either the tires on the ground, or on GOOD jack stands. Up on a jack is never safe to be under a car/truck). Then bonk the flat face of the brake drum with a BIG hammer a few times, a good deadblow or 1lb sledge work great. Most times this will loosen it up enough. Sometimes you may also want to heat the drum with a propane torch, as this will help to break any rust that might be holding it on.

-Hans
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  #3  
Old November 26th, 2006, 12:12 AM
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John B.
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Back off adjuster. Wrench pointing to front of vehicle and turn UP.

Put bolt in drum removal hole.

Tighten bolt while knocking drum out around in different location to keep it square.
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  #4  
Old November 26th, 2006, 07:46 PM
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Peter Sherman
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What truck
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  #5  
Old November 27th, 2006, 09:02 PM
punter
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Scott
1966 Series IIA
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1984 Defender 110
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  #6  
Old November 27th, 2006, 11:23 PM
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Peter Sherman
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there are 2 adjusters[1 for each pad] back those off & see if that helps
report back
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  #7  
Old November 29th, 2006, 08:04 PM
punter
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Scott
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Yep, I had already backed them off... I've been recommended to try the Big F***ing Hammer Method by some folks on another site. So, I'll give that a go as soon as I'm able to get back to it.

Thanks,
Punter
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  #8  
Old November 30th, 2006, 08:52 AM
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I think there is a threaded hole on the drum (my memory fails me if this is series only or not). Whilst hitting it with the bfh put a high grade bolt in there and turn as the bolt pushes off. My experience is that, if it is not simply rust, the shoe wears a ridge into the drum and that locks it in place so wacking the outside of the drum sometimes frees it.
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  #9  
Old December 2nd, 2006, 12:43 AM
punter
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Scott
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glencoyne wrote: Hit the face of the drum - not the edge, and especially not the rim, with the biggest hammer you can find. Screw the wheel nuts a few turns onto the studs first, so you do not hit the ends of the studs and damage them. Even the most stubborn drum will 'bounce' free in the end. If it still does not shift, you are using too small a hammer.

Richard


This was some advice I got on another site... it worked perfect. Drums popped off easily and no damage to any parts.

I did see the threaded hole you were referring to... there was a lot of rot in it though. So, I wasn't confident that the treads were in tact enough to withstand the force required to pop the drum free. Now I know what that hole is for though (for the future)... oddly, the shop manual for my truck makes no mention of it.

Thanks for all the advice,
Punter
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