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  #1  
Old April 25th, 2012, 08:04 PM
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Matthew
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Price on a radiator recore -thoughts?

I got a quote from Grove radiator in Neptune to do a recore with a an additional row or/wider recore for 550+taxes. Thoughts on the deal?
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  #2  
Old April 25th, 2012, 08:24 PM
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William Skidmore
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For your original engine or the Tdi that you are putting in?
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  #3  
Old April 25th, 2012, 09:58 PM
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thomas
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Daniel had a deal on radiators made in the city for a fair price. Send him a message. He might be having another one done for his 300 tdi conversion.
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  #4  
Old April 25th, 2012, 10:00 PM
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They were $700 to $900 I think. Check threads started by ini88
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  #5  
Old April 25th, 2012, 10:39 PM
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mark kellgren
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I just paid $550 with a very good radiator shop I trust to recore my TDI radiator to the max and do the tropical mod. It was some of the best money I have spent so far. My 2.8 was a little more than it was designed to handle, and it manifested on the highway on long trips when it was warm out (75+). You can't have too much radiator with an aluminum head. Now, my temp won't go over 180F no matter what I do, and it still warms up quick since the thermostat controls that part. I am a happy camper.
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  #6  
Old April 26th, 2012, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
For your original engine or the Tdi that you are putting in?
Nah, for the LS2 . . . .
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  #7  
Old April 26th, 2012, 09:09 AM
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Chris
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I'm tempted to try aluminum radiator next time. Anyone else gone that route? Suggestions and recs welcome
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  #8  
Old April 26th, 2012, 11:09 AM
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I'm thinking about this too.

After last year's AWFUL drive from Outer Banks back to DC in 100+ heat having to run the heater just to keep the needle out of the red, I might not have 100% efficiency in my current radiator...

Can you elaborate on the "tropical mod"?
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  #9  
Old April 26th, 2012, 11:13 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Matthew - I might be going down this same road soon (there is a thread someplace where my truck was running warm on idle). Did you pull your radiator out and bring it to them? Any idea of how good their work is?
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  #10  
Old April 26th, 2012, 11:27 AM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillstrubl View Post
I'm thinking about this too.

After last year's AWFUL drive from Outer Banks back to DC in 100+ heat having to run the heater just to keep the needle out of the red, I might not have 100% efficiency in my current radiator...

Can you elaborate on the "tropical mod"?
For last two years, in spring, summer and fall, I was just like you, running heater on long drives in the summer with A/C on. Not anymore.

I'm going to do a writeup on this soon and take pics of the old tdi radiator I pulled out so you understand it. The tropical mod was something I read about on a S. Africa forum. There is an engineering oversite in the TDI radiator, suspected by me, confirmed by many in SA, as well as my highly competent radiator shop. If you remove the plastic or brass plug on the LHS coolant tank that the hoses attach to and look down, you will see that there is a baffle (hole) that runs straight through to the bottom. The mistake LR made is that hole is too damn big. What happens is that as coolant pours in from the top hose, ideally it would be forced to travel along the top of the core to the other tank (RHS) drop down and be forced to return along all the coolant veins back to the LHS tank and exit on the bottom hose back to the pump, much cooler along the way. That big baffle allows hot coolant to bypass all the veins and go straight down to the LHS tank to the exit/bottom hose, never having been cooled. The faster you go, the more that bypasses as the flow through the radiator veins can't keep up and gives slight resistance forcing more through the bypass baffle. As my radiator expert put it, "it's way too big!" He said it should have some (like a 1/4") but not that big 3/4" hole. This would become evident running in the summer on the highway at hi speed, when the pump is running at full speed and engine is putting max heat out.

My shop not only replaced the core with a much, much larger one, but reduced the baffle size to a pencil sized hole. Now my core is flush with the tanks on both sides, still fitting in perfectly, but using all the available space for more veins. when I compared it to the OEM radiator I pulled out, I was amazed at how wimpy the OEM core looked. At hi speed, adding more core limits the resistance available to the baffle, and adds way more cooling surface.

One thing my shop did as well is match the recore to purpose. He said that the spacing on the veins that LR put in the OEM radiator was well spaced to match rugged, muddy dusty off highway environments like commercial equipment. He asked me how much off roading I was going to do, and said if you are going to get it muddy and dusty, you don't want to go with really close veins as they clog easy off highway. He found something in the middle and it proved perfect so far.

On the highway, I would spend the majority of time watching my coolant temp gauge. Now I only look at it to reflect on what good money I spent on the recore as well as when I can turn my heater on when there's a chill out in the morning. I'm thinking about swapping my coolant gauge and my EGT, so the EGT is in the dash, and the coolant is in the muduk pod. I don't need it in plane sight anymore.
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  #11  
Old April 26th, 2012, 07:35 PM
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Hey Don. I pulled the trigger with the wider core and I'll have it back next week. I'll buzz you if you want to swing by and take a look at the finished work.

Mark, do you know of this is the same on NAS radiators? I'm going to give the radiator guy a call to see what his thoughts are as well if this is also prevelant on the NAS rad.
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  #12  
Old April 26th, 2012, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flananuts View Post
Hey Don. I pulled the trigger with the wider core and I'll have it back next week. I'll buzz you if you want to swing by and take a look at the finished work.

Mark, do you know of this is the same on NAS radiators? I'm going to give the radiator guy a call to see what his thoughts are as well if this is also prevelant on the NAS rad.
Thanks - please give me a shout when you get it - I'd love to take a look at it and see/ask you questions on the procedure.
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  #13  
Old April 26th, 2012, 08:14 PM
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Just got a "genuine" for my V8. Seems to cool well even with a non functional fan clutch in 75 degree weather. I will have the original recored and compare and contrast.
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  #14  
Old April 26th, 2012, 11:27 PM
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William Skidmore
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This is what I found on a quick google.
http://www.google.com/search?q=land+...w=1157&bih=671
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  #15  
Old April 27th, 2012, 12:39 PM
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Matthew
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I relayed the thoughts on the baffle size in the 3.9 to the radiator guy. He's going to get back to me on what he sees when he pulls it apart.

Stay tuned
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  #16  
Old April 30th, 2012, 11:03 AM
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Nick Vogel
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I'm seriously considering a re-core on mine for no other reason than its 15 years old and mights as well do it before the South Texas heat really kicks in.
But....
Has there been any more ideas on to keep the oil cooler or not?
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  #17  
Old April 30th, 2012, 11:25 AM
flananuts
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So I'm keeping the oil cooler in line, putting in new lines from the sandwich plate, plus I'm going to put new oil gears that are larger than the stock ones for more pressure. I'll be sure to post pictures of this setup and benefits once the engine is back together.
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  #18  
Old April 30th, 2012, 12:46 PM
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James
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Standard rad is 240 euros locally or 110 uk pounds plus shipping if that helps?
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  #19  
Old April 30th, 2012, 01:13 PM
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Owen Jones
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I had a re-core using a Desert Cooler core with an extra row - cost $650 here in Denver. Original core had what looked like calcium buildup in the tube ends.
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  #20  
Old May 3rd, 2012, 07:23 PM
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Matthew
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I just got some pics of the project including the oil cooler before and after. When I pick up tomorrow I'll post all the pics he took for me.
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