Pressurized cooling system....when cold? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 26th, 2008, 07:25 PM
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Ryan Hoffmeyer
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Pressurized cooling system....when cold?

hey guys,

been having problems with my heater and cooling system lately. I thought I might have some air in my cooling system so I stopped in to where I had the system flushed about a week ago. They burped my system for me and topped it off, I drove 20 minutes over to a buddies house and let it sit for a couple hours. We pulled the radiator cap off and the system was under pressure. the cap was cold to the touch. its 30 degrees outside. ???

any ideas what I am dealing with here? Could it still be air trapped in the system? with the heater and upper radiator hose being the high points in the cooling system, you would think that would be where the air is getting trapped.

I was planning on swapping out the water pump this sunday. do you think that would help work out all the kinks??

any input is greatly appreciated.

Ryan

Follow-up Post:

I just put a "catch can" off of my overflow res. and it turns out that I am losing all my coolant out the overflow. I drove 20 miles and the 20 oz. bottle was plum full. Thought I would share the new info to top off the brain storming ideas of what needs to be addressed.

cheers,

Ryan
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  #2  
Old December 26th, 2008, 08:21 PM
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Pressurized cooling system can be the sign of a leaky head gasket. Do a compression test.

Follow-up Post:

Or go to NAPA and get an exhaust gas kit and test the coolant for combustion gases. I had the same situation in my RRC and drove it with a loosened cap to allow the pressure from busting the overflow tank. I milked it until I got around to changing the head gasket.
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Old December 26th, 2008, 08:49 PM
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sounds like a plan. Thanks for the input. I will keep you posted on how it turns out.

Ryan
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Old December 27th, 2008, 08:25 PM
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So the test results came back positive for combustion gas in my cooling system. I thought I would get some ideas of the best way to approach the situation. My defender just crossed 93k miles. Is it time for a mild rebuild? I dont know much about the history of the vehicle and I haven't owned it for very long. But it is going to be....it is, my daily driver and I do have a budget. Most of my budget was going to be put in restoring the damaged body panels this winter but nessecities do come first.

If I am going to the trouble to replace a head gasket, do I go a little further and do all the gaskets in the moter? time for a complete rebuild? any thoughts? Ideas? any tools and help that you can lend me?

appreciate the advice.

Ryan
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  #5  
Old December 27th, 2008, 09:08 PM
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Can of worms.

Could be a slipped liner in the block or a cracked head too.

If it were mine I would pull the heads and see if there is an obvious gasket failure or if it is a dropped liner.

If the block looks ok, i would use the newer style gaskets. Lot of posts on this upgrade.

Good luck.

Ron
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Old December 27th, 2008, 11:03 PM
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Thumbs up

Ditto on Ron's advice...

A head gasket job is a BIG job and should not be rushed. If this is your only means of transportation and you haven't experience with this, you may want to have the work done by a credible shop.

I just replaced my head gaskets, total cost was about $500; $200 for the composite gasket kit from AB, and $300 for pressure check, head skim cut and a valve job.

Not all gaskets supplied with the AB kit require replacement (if it's not broke, don't fix it). I replace obviously the head gaskets, the valley gasket, valley end seals, valve seals, and valve cover gaskets. If the other seals on the plenum start to leak down the road, that's an easy fix.

By your test results, it does sound like the coolant system is being pressurized. Before you tear the top of the motor apart, you want to be d@mn sure you know what the cause is.

If you take this project on yourself, start by pulling all the sparkplugs and examine them. That may lead you to which cylinder is the problem.

When you pull the heads, pay close attention to the cylinder bores. If the any bore is "clean" looking (you'll know when you compare all the bores) that is an indication coolant is working its way into that cylinder.
Also, examine the tops of the cylinder bore liners. These liners are surface ground flush with the aluminum block.
Also, with a magnifying glass, examine the cylinder block for cracks.


Many board members have done the job and will chime in on some techniques that work for them.


Good luck!
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Old December 29th, 2008, 10:04 AM
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If you get a shop to do it expect to pay $1500 to $1800 for the job.
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Old December 29th, 2008, 11:50 AM
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Thanks for all the adivice. Luckily I have a couple friends who are mechanics and have agreed to help out. I think this would be a good time for me to kinda go through and clean up motor while I am in there. Maybe do some mild upgrades to help with torque and performance. I found means of alternate transportation so if the rover is down for a few weeks, it wont be the end of the world.

I have a long journey planned in the 90 next summer, so it might be good for me freshen up under the hood a little.

again...thanks for the feed back.

I will keep you posted with the progress.

Ryan
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Old December 29th, 2008, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landrovered
If you get a shop to do it expect to pay $1500 to $1800 for the job.
LR Cincy qouted $2200, and that's without skim cutting the heads nor a valve job!



Cheers...
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Old December 29th, 2008, 12:26 PM
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I just finished the same job for a client for a little over $1800 including valve job and skim. That is why I have business and the dealers need a bailout!
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