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  #41  
Old February 18th, 2016, 08:34 PM
RBBailey
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LOL... I so want to......
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  #42  
Old February 18th, 2016, 08:36 PM
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Amazing that companies don't want your business.

Bring it to Vancouver, Silvercity will do it for probably around $150 Canadian. That's just over $100 to you guys south of the border.

HOME - Silver City Galvanizing
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  #43  
Old February 18th, 2016, 08:39 PM
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John B.
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Why won't they galvanize it? Seems very strange.
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  #44  
Old February 18th, 2016, 10:26 PM
RBBailey
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The one place specifically said they won't do structural vehicle parts due to the warping. The next place I asked did not say why, but simply suggested that I ask the first guy. The third and fourth ones apparently only do particular items -- one specifically does storm drains,
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  #45  
Old February 18th, 2016, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by CDN38 View Post
Amazing that companies don't want your business.

Bring it to Vancouver, Silvercity will do it for probably around $150 Canadian. That's just over $100 to you guys south of the border.

HOME - Silver City Galvanizing
The American Galvanizers Association is where I found the one in Portland that won't do the structural car parts. I suppose each individual company would have their own way of doing business, though.
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  #46  
Old February 19th, 2016, 09:21 PM
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So what about acid dip and a zinc chromate dip. It's what all the modern production lines use now and it works providing the seams are sealex.
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  #47  
Old February 21st, 2016, 12:47 AM
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https://www.flickr.com/gp/bhcmbailey/xV714K

OK, so going to seal the seams next. The posts at the top of the bulkhead, the little spikes that the windshield sits on top of -- do I seal around those? And the seam all the way across the top?

In my mind, I want this thing as sealed as possible, except for the bottom of the door frame post where, since the mounts for the doors and the wings won't ever be actually sealed, you actually probably want water to be able to run through that, and for it to remain open.
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  #48  
Old May 6th, 2016, 11:30 PM
DailyDrivenDefende
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Michael
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I am not trying to steal the thread but just to recycle.

I am getting ready for galvy dip. What can I do to reduce warping? Where does it usually warp? What is the remedy?

Thanks.
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  #49  
Old May 7th, 2016, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
I am not trying to steal the thread but just to recycle.

I am getting ready for galvy dip. What can I do to reduce warping? Where does it usually warp? What is the remedy?

Thanks.
The only place my bulkhead "warped" was in the footwells. The warping was minor.

The only real noticeable thing was that I had to use my hi-lift jack to spread apart the bulkhead about 1/8 to 1/4 inch at the very bottom where the bulkhead mounts to the frame.

I took no precautions. Small price to pay for rustproofing.
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  #50  
Old May 7th, 2016, 02:15 AM
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Michael
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Thanks. Did your bulkhead have vent openings? How did you manage the flap door hinges after the galving?
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  #51  
Old May 7th, 2016, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
Thanks. Did your bulkhead have vent openings? How did you manage the flap door hinges after the galving?
Yes, my bulkhead does have vent openings. It was an older style with the welded-in vent screens.

I cleared the flap door hinges with three tools:
1. Propane torch
2. Compressed air
3. Miniature round file

I gently heated up the flap door hinge until the zinc looked "wet" and then blasted the hinge hole with compressed air. The metled excess zinc shot out the side. Using a hinge pin, I tested the fit. If it didn't fit, I used the miniature round file to gently file out any burrs.

Just remember not to overheat the zinc, otherwise it will look kind of yellow and oxidized.
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  #52  
Old May 7th, 2016, 10:16 AM
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Can you drill it? Or is it too close to the edge?
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  #53  
Old May 7th, 2016, 10:42 AM
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It can be drilled with a flexible bit extender . BTDT next time, I would use a torch and compressed air.

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  #54  
Old May 8th, 2016, 12:50 AM
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Hammer and a nail did it for me. :-)
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