Prepping for a Valley pan gasket replacement, coupla questions - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 28th, 2013, 10:23 AM
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Matthew
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Prepping for a Valley pan gasket replacement, coupla questions

I am getting ready to do the valley pan and end seals on my 94. I know that I ned to lower the coolant and make sure the area is very clean before disassembly. Few questions

1. Do I need to purchase new intake manifold bolts or can I use the same ones?
2. Should I plan to use hylomar or equivalent on the end seals
3. I know i'll need to disconnect the fuel rail and I'll have to do some disconnecting on the EFI's. Aside from proper labeling, are there any other things I should be concerned with.
4. What else am I missing?

Thanks

matt
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  #2  
Old June 28th, 2013, 11:17 AM
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Craig
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#2 - def use the blue goo!

Take a picture of everything before you disconnect it just in case it takes a little longer to get it back together again!!
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Old June 28th, 2013, 11:47 AM
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Jeff B
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#2-Use The Right Stuff!

http://www.permatex.com/products/our...he-right-stuff

Reuse your bolts and then check that they are tight a few weeks later. I bet a few are loose right now.
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  #4  
Old June 28th, 2013, 06:13 PM
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Use Hylomar (blue goo) around the water journals only. Put right stuff just at the ends of the end seals where they go into their little "triangular" slots at the end---I smear the stuff into the end gaps on the manifold and just a little dab at both ends of seals. . Rest is just torquing the bolts correctly.

I use Hylomar on the union between the throttle body upper air intake. Doesn't take much.

I would also check my vacuum hoses--now would be a perfect time to renew them if they are old--particularly the little "Z" shaped one that goes into the upper air intake on the side and visually inspect that little plastic "T" fitting. These things have a tendency to leak/crack as they get old from the heat.

Anytime you have a bolt that requires torque in a "sensitive" area, always make sure that the bolts and the holes are clean and smooth--if you can't hand tighten the bolts when they are loose, clean them. Use a tap and die if there is any question and when I do that, I use grease on the tap to catch any swarf (kinda sticky) and take it out part way in and clean it, regrease and finish. Aluminum swarf isn't too dangerous, but good habit. Obviously don't let ANYTHING fall into engine with it open--cover that stuff up. I mention all this because it is usually an unclean hole that, once it goes through the heat cycles, can loose considerably (in actuality, they were always loose but the friction "fooled" the torque wrench.
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Old June 30th, 2013, 09:07 AM
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All great responses. Thanks for the help and suggestions.

Matt
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  #6  
Old June 30th, 2013, 10:15 AM
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Rick Thompson
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I used permatex right stuff & permatex gasket sealant instead of hylomar. For some reason i have never had luck with it sealing. If you are using a metal gasket, shape it to fit before putting on the sealants. Also, check the metal end caps to make sure they are straight
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  #7  
Old June 30th, 2013, 10:36 AM
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Right stuff only at the end rail corners very light application around water ports ..... clean all thread holes out and blow out also , late model end rail retainers ERR7282 .. also late model hardware LYG101451G (2) and LYG101440 (10)..... 20+ yrs never had a comeback intake gasket job
hylomar is usually use on plenum sealing surface
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  #8  
Old July 8th, 2013, 02:08 PM
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Quick update for those who check back:

I pulled the intake manifold off over the weekend and took a bunch of photos, which I'll upload for others searching. A couple interesting findings.

1. Not one of the intake manifold bolts were more than finger tight.
2. My coolant leak is definitely from the water journal in the head by cyl. 8
3. My oil leak is definitely form the front end seal
4. There is what looks like dried oil chips or parts of the valley pan gasket floating on top of the cam and lifters which I will vacuum out.
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  #9  
Old July 8th, 2013, 03:11 PM
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My preference is Permatex ultra gray. It works excellent in nearly every application. Right Stuff is damn expensive to only be using 4 small squirts and it goes bad sitting on the shelf. Hylomar around the water passages is okay but the Permatex used in modesty works just as well. Most folks put far too much smeckle on the surface than is needed to seal properly. Uniform sequencial torquing is the critcal issue.
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  #10  
Old July 28th, 2013, 08:48 AM
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Thanks everyone for the help. I finished up the job and wow, total improvement across the board. Here's a few things I did as well

1. Used right stuff in the corners and under and above the end seals and connections to the valley pan.
2. Used hylomar blue on the water passages(had already bought it)
3. Manuals say 38lb torque, but a few other forums said the people have stripped at 30lb, so went with 35lb torque.
4. Replaced the fuel injectors with some bosch rebuilt injectors(4 squirter pattern) bought on eBay(Note: take care in replacing the fuel rail and do it very slowly.

Result: no more leaks.
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  #11  
Old July 28th, 2013, 11:39 PM
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Congrats
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  #12  
Old July 28th, 2013, 11:52 PM
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Did you notice any improvement with the new injectors?
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  #13  
Old July 28th, 2013, 11:57 PM
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Just to let you know there's a meet at the fuddruckers in bridgewater on 22 the first Wednesday of august if your interested.
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  #14  
Old July 29th, 2013, 10:06 AM
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I immediately noticed a smoother idle than previously before plus I imagine some better compression now that everything is tight up top. I drove the truck hard down to manasquan last weekend puahing the rpm's pretty high through the gears and it drove quite well. I like the bosch injectors.
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