Preparing new tub for paint - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old May 31st, 2010, 10:19 AM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Preparing new tub for paint

Hey everyone,

I asked this in my build thread but didn't get too much feedback so I need more info. I am picking up a new take off tub from SafariRover. It is currently white. My 110 is Trident Green. The new tub is from a 2008 110 so the paint is in perfect condition. My question is: how do I prep the new tub for paint? Should I sand it down to bare aluminum, etch, and repaint? Or should I rough the surface and paint? Randy says to use red scotch bright, sealer, then paint. I am not sure what he means by "sealer". Any expertise would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old May 31st, 2010, 11:18 AM
dave_lucas's Avatar
dave_lucas
Status: Offline
Dave Lucas
None
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: CO USA
Posts: 3,126
If the current paint is solid do not strip it as it will provide a nice surface for the new paint (less effort cost and steps as well).

You want to sand or scuff up the entire thing to give the sealer and paint a good surface to stick to.

Sealer is a coat that goes over the old paint prior to the new paint. It will give a uniform color / surface for the new paint for example you new part is white and you old parts are green and maybe you have some new parts in black primer if you just sprayed it all with a top coat each one could end up a slight shade different.

It also helps avoid issuse with applying your top coat over different paint types for example the new paint on your tub might be a base/ clear urethane where the old paint might be single stage enamel and if you use any kind of primer what is it made of?

I would recommend checking with the person you are using to paint the tub and ask them how they want you to prep the tub and other parts for paint as each place is a little different. Some will say scotchbrite some will say XXX grit of wet sanding. And do not cut corners as prep is 99% of a good paint job
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old May 31st, 2010, 01:46 PM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Thanks for the info Dave. My new tub looks like it has been in storage since new. My old parts have been sanded by the original owner, down to bare aluminum in some places. I have always thought I have to use etching primer on the bare aluminum to get a good base to paint on? That is where to confusion comes in. I have 2 parts in 2 different stages of preparation. I would ask the painter for his preference, but I am the painter, with no experience. Haha.

Is sealer the same as primer?
__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old May 31st, 2010, 02:44 PM
LRover's Avatar
LRover
Status: Offline
J. Michael McCaig
D90 ST, LR110, Series IIa, RRC
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: VA
Posts: 479
I would not sand your new tub to bare metal. The factory does a great job getting paint to stick to aluminum. I don't know if your new tub has clear coat. If not, I would just wet sand with 600 grit, wipe down with a silicone remover and prep, tack cloth and paint with your primer/sealer. For a quick job, you can skip the primer/sealer. Check with your paint supplier as they should be able to give you good advice. For your old parts that have bare spots, Eastwood makes a great etching primer in a rattle can. I'm partial to Trident Green...same color as my 110.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old May 31st, 2010, 03:34 PM
dave_lucas's Avatar
dave_lucas
Status: Offline
Dave Lucas
None
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: CO USA
Posts: 3,126
OLD parts

On your old parts it depends on the condition of the paint. My 90 has the original paint and it chips real easy and has a bunch of chips that will need to be sanded so I am planning to strip, etch prime, seal and then paint

If the paint on your old parts is anything like the paint on my 1984 it comes off real easy just 1 coat of paint stripper and the paint fell off. For me stripping the old paint off is less work that trying to sand all of the little chips and ending up with old brittle paint under a fancy new top coat.

Test a small area and if the paint on the old parts comes off real easy then you might want to strip the paint off and get down to a good base metal.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

NEW parts

Sand (I use wet 400 or 600, just depends on the top coats and how I am applying) or scotch brite, whatever makes you happy. When I am sanding / prepping a new part my goal is to make sure I do not see any glossy paint when done, I want it nice and flat.

Your local paint store will have the data sheets for the etch primer, sealer and paint that will have basic directions such as use grit XXX wait x amount of hours and so on and so forth.

The product you choose will make a difference in prep so ask them and they will be able to tell you what needs to be done.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

PAINT

If you prep everything, buy the paint and spray it yourself chances are you will spend more money on paint and stuff to do it than you would have spent if you had prepped it and paid someone else to do decent / nice spray job.

If you want to go bottom dollar even a cheap place can lay down a decent coat of paint probably better than you could and it would be less than you are going to pay for paint and supplies if you do the prep.

Trust me, I have painted many cars and trucks and that stuff adds up quick if you are not in the biz ( I am not).

If you do decide to paint it yourself you need to spend some time at the local paint store talkiong about product and think about the following.

Are you going to rent a booth, paint it outside or paint it in your garage?

Do you have a dry source of air that can keep up with a spray gun?

Do you have a spray gun that can spray the different products that you are going to use?

I honestly think you should give some serious consideration to doing the prep work and having someone else spray it for you. Paint stores normally have a list of painters and if you tell them what you are looking for they can point you in the proper direction

for example: I am looking for someone to paint some car parts with a single stage enamel, I already have them removed from the car, sanded / stripped / whatever can recommend someone that will do a (chose quality here) at a decent price? I bet they give you at least a few names.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old June 1st, 2010, 02:57 PM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Thanks Dave,

Exactly the kind of info I was looking for. I am just trying to plan ahead. This project is getting way out of control!
__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old August 7th, 2010, 10:50 PM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Hey Dave or anyone else,

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I think I'm gonna try to do it myself, just because I want to learn how. I have found a place that can mix trident/bronze/conniston/eastnor Green for me. Haven't decided yet.

http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/

In your experience, should I use a single stage acrylic urethane or acrylic enamel? Or something else? I am not looking for a showroom finish. I want it to look like a Land Rover should--used. As it stands now, my 110 just has too many colors on it (5 to be exact). Once I get it down to 2 (Somekindof Green and Limestone) I will take it 4 wheeling and bust it up some. Give it some character. Anyway, I am not sure what "type" of paint I should use. Any advice? Thanks in advance.
__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old August 7th, 2010, 11:21 PM
RiftRover's Avatar
RiftRover
Status: Offline
Mike Barnett
110
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 813
Forrest,
I am about half way through doing my own paint (it's too bloody hot to paint in the garage now). I was planning to use single stage enamel because I think that was what the factory used, but the local paint store only had urethane. After applying it I would recommend the urethane becuase it seems much more durable (compared to the enamel from tower paint cans). I would also recommend looking around locally for someone to mix the paint - a quart of PPG Sandglow plus hardener and reducer was less than $150, much less than I found online. It's definitely a learning experience, the gun set up is crucial to get a good finish. Take the time to practice (I'm getting better with each piece I paint!)
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old August 8th, 2010, 03:42 AM
JimC's Avatar
JimC
Status: Offline
Jim Cheney
NAS 110 #145
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
Posts: 7,154
Registry
I've used DuPont ChromaOne - its a great singe stage acrylic enamel. To be more precise, LenB used it for me and laid it down in a home-made spray booth in his driveway with nothing more complex than a Sears spray gun and a nice sized inline drier for the air supply. He used about 3 coats on a new set of doors I had, the color was AA yellow and the result looked like candy.

Don't sell yourself short and say you want the result to look "used" - if that's what you want get rattle cans. Do the nicest paint job you can and add the patina yourself with your own use!
__________________
Jim Cheney

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old August 8th, 2010, 08:28 AM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
.... Do the nicest paint job you can and add the patina yourself with your own use!
Yup, that's the plan. Thanks for the info guys. So one for enemal and one for urethane. Hmmm. Single stage seems to be a common factor.
__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old August 8th, 2010, 09:00 AM
kevkon's Avatar
kevkon
Status: Offline
kevin
1994 D90 300tdi #730, SIII 88
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: chester,nj
Posts: 673
If you want patina, single stage is the only way to go.
Enamel is more of a generic term.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old August 8th, 2010, 09:39 AM
KevinNY's Avatar
KevinNY
Status: Offline
Kevin Buckley
1973 coiler
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Guilderland,NY
Posts: 1,460
I just finished a repaint over a 15 year old ECR paintjob that was holding up very well, I just took the shine off the clearcoat with 400 grit wet. No need to go any finer.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0514.jpg
Views:	120
Size:	91.4 KB
ID:	29962   Click image for larger version

Name:	securedownload.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	79.1 KB
ID:	29963  

__________________
'73 SeriesIII coiler,"The Goat", Daihatsu 2.8TD,Santana,Ashcroft,ARB's,etc., now SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old August 8th, 2010, 10:08 AM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY View Post
I just finished a repaint over a 15 year old ECR paintjob that was holding up very well, I just took the shine off the clearcoat with 400 grit wet. No need to go any finer.
400 grit--check. Thanks Kevin. Been following along with your Goat Surgery. Very nice. I noticed you used PPG epoxy primer. Is that an etching primer for bare aluminum? I thought I was supposed to use a sealer over the paint after roughing it with 400 grit?

Ps. I apologize to all the painting professionals out there for all the novice questions. I have tried to do a lot of research before posting the questions here but I think the internet has too much info and have caused more confusion than solutions. Thanks again for any guidance you can give me.
__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old August 8th, 2010, 10:44 AM
KevinNY's Avatar
KevinNY
Status: Offline
Kevin Buckley
1973 coiler
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Guilderland,NY
Posts: 1,460
I only primed the bulkhead because it had undergone a rebuild that basically replaced the lower half with new galvanized repair pieces. All the other panels were just cleaned, sanded and wiped down. I had a new bare piece of piece of aluminum for the tub floor which I prepped with PPG aluminum cleaner and conditioner. I used the same stuff on any spots where the aluminum showed through. My paint is a fairly flat finish, eggshell I guess, so it also hides well. If you are painting over old seasoned paint it will be stable and a sealer is not absolutely neccessary but I would consult the paint supply guys about the paint you use and if they think it's neccessary. I have found the paint shop people to very helpful to the amateurs, they enjoy it vs. filling orders for body shops all day.
__________________
'73 SeriesIII coiler,"The Goat", Daihatsu 2.8TD,Santana,Ashcroft,ARB's,etc., now SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old August 8th, 2010, 10:50 AM
dave_lucas's Avatar
dave_lucas
Status: Offline
Dave Lucas
None
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: CO USA
Posts: 3,126
If you are going to paint it yourself a single stage is probably going to be the easiest to learn / apply in a short amount of time and get decent results. If I were going to paint something using a single stage I would go with Urethane over Acrylic enamel as it seems to last longer and does not fade / chalk out as easy as Acrylic enamel.

I would highly recommend buying your paint locally if at all possible, if you run short on something while painting chances are you can run down and get it or if you run into issues it is nice to have someone to ask.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old August 8th, 2010, 02:23 PM
RiftRover's Avatar
RiftRover
Status: Offline
Mike Barnett
110
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 813
I've been sanding the original paint like Kevin and then using etching primer, even though that is meant for bare metal. The original paint seems to vary in quality so priming gives a consistant base. Also, definitely get the dessicant dryer to keep your air supply dry (especially in Florida). Bought mine from Home Depot online for around $80 - Campbell Hausfield.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old August 8th, 2010, 02:42 PM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Single stage--check.

Urethane and local vendor--check.

Dessicant dryer--check.

I think I will use a sealer. Thanks guys.
__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old August 8th, 2010, 05:20 PM
kevkon's Avatar
kevkon
Status: Offline
kevin
1994 D90 300tdi #730, SIII 88
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: chester,nj
Posts: 673
Exclamation

The PROPER respirator for those nasty Isocyanates - Double Check!
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old August 8th, 2010, 09:04 PM
mightymg's Avatar
mightymg
Status: Offline
Lane Farka
97 D90, 05 LR3, 95 RRC LWB
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Clinton Ut
Posts: 744
I just shot the front of mine, and I hit it with a scotch brite, then i acid etched all the joints, wiped it with wax and grease remover and it was good to go...
__________________
project whore!

95 RRC LWB-- DD
97 D90 37 " krawlers, coilovers, beadlocks, stretched
05 LR3 - Mamas/ tow rig


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
- Moab rally vids 2010
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old August 8th, 2010, 10:34 PM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Respirator--double check.

Lane why did you acid etch the joints? Is scotch brite finer than 400 grit? What color did you get?
__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
paint

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
rollcage,ARB's, 4.10's GBR, badger, D90 tub Shane@EVS For Sale - Parts 20 March 20th, 2006 06:41 PM
need New D-90 Tub for 94 defender hutclose Wanted 2 September 13th, 2005 06:48 PM
SW driver/passengerside doors wanted as well as centor console tub jchan88 Wanted 4 August 7th, 2005 09:04 PM
D-90 Rear Tub Needed ember Wanted 12 March 10th, 2005 05:08 PM
tub width on a '94 D90 is tapered "natural"? paulb Defender Technical Discussions 3 August 18th, 2004 07:07 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:11 AM.


Copyright