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  #1  
Old February 18th, 2013, 12:25 PM
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Travis Graham
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Power window installation question

This is an obscure one, I know... but if someone has experience with SW doors and power window regulators, maybe you can help me.

If I remove the bit of metal circled in the attached photo (and fill the void with a speaker magnet), would that prohibit the installation of a power window regulator?

I've seen photos of the power window regulators and it doesn't *look* like they actually use that space, but there is a hole in that door frame for something (and I haven't seen one of the motors in person).

Thanks in advance!

Travis
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  #2  
Old February 18th, 2013, 12:38 PM
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Jason England
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The SW have a spacer so the magnet doesn't stick so far into the door. Not sure if its needed but it may help with clearances.
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  #3  
Old February 18th, 2013, 12:47 PM
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Travis Graham
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I have that spacer. On the speakers that I'm currently using, the magnet is small enough to clear the metal, but still protrudes into the cavity slightly. The speakers that I'm wanting to install are deeper and have slightly larger magnets, so they won't even clear that metal bracket.

Thanks!
Travis
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  #4  
Old February 18th, 2013, 01:00 PM
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Slide the speaker down more towards the middle of the door. Just make sure to not go to far or it will hit the seat box. If you want I will take a picture of mine.
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  #5  
Old February 18th, 2013, 01:09 PM
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Travis Graham
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Quote:
Slide the speaker down more towards the middle of the door.
It's too late for that - there's already a ~4" hole in the door card (in roughly the same position as an NAS card) where the previous speaker was located.

I want the new speaker to go right in that area. I can make it fit with some quick Dremel action, I just need to know whether taking that route is going to eliminate one of my "future upgrade" plans.

Thanks!
Travis
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  #6  
Old February 18th, 2013, 01:52 PM
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Chris Murphy
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Hi, Travis-

I've done this on several trucks, using both the factory style power regularors and aftermarket universal kits. It'll depend on what means or type of power window kit you're installing. Additionally, the newer post-2007-style doors are slightly different than earlier ones, if you're using NTO doors like I did most recently. I also installed power kits in my original 97 doors, and experimented with two different style aftermarket kits, and my newer doors have LR factory regulators.)

The factory-style regulators do use a bit of that space as the motor actually pivots a bit with actuation. That's what the rectangular hole is for.

With the aftermarket cable/belt/whatever-style ones that drive the original regulators in your doors, the motors do not move, just the cable does, so that inner doorframe space is clear for speaker magnets, provided you've used a spacer as noted above.

If you can describe the type of kit/regulators and which SW doors you're using, I can tell you what I did for each.

Murph
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  #7  
Old February 18th, 2013, 02:02 PM
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Travis Graham
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Hi Chris,

Many thanks! I do have >2007 SW doors. I was planning to use the factory regulators, but don't have those yet, so I'm flexible there.

Do the factory regulators consume all of that rectangle as they move? Perhaps more importantly, does any part connect to that little hole at the bottom?

I don't think I'm going to have to remove all of the metal, just a portion of it (which would leave the entire rectangle open, but might prevent something from being attached to that hole).

Best,
Travis
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  #8  
Old February 18th, 2013, 02:24 PM
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Chris Murphy
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Yep, my experience was that newer >2007 NTO doors need that space for motor movement using factory regulators. I do not recollect having to use that little screw in the inner frame below the cutout. For visualization this is what the factory-style regulator looks like :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Defender-Rig...item3a61ac46dd Just click on the photo for a bigger picture.

When purchased, my doors came with new inner doorcards not yet cut. When I measured them and compared everything to my original door (97) cards with speaker holes, I was driven to install the speakers slightly further back from the hinges (as Brent mentioned earlier) so there wouldn't be any clearance issues. Using your original photo, imagine shifting your red circle to the right until it's just about directly inline with the two mounting screws, just down and right of the rounded 'hump' next to the winder handle. That worked for me.

I used the stock 97 foam speaker spacers in one car and then reproduced another identical pair using wooded speaker spacer blanks to allow for the drivers.

If you want/need to use your stock already cut doorcards, you can check into aftermarket power kits, which are hit or miss on quality.

To clarify as my original description sucked, the LR-style motors don't pivot themselves per se, but the rectangular cutout allows clearance for them. The Ebay photo shows sort of how the four mounting screw holes near the motor mount to your inner door frame.

For what it's worth, remember that the vast majority of aftermarket Defender stereos sound great while sitting still, but are effectively a muffled noisemaker once moving.
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  #9  
Old February 18th, 2013, 02:51 PM
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Travis Graham
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Perfect. Thanks for that info, Chris! I guess it's time to pop the card off to see just how much metal must be removed.

My current speakers are shot, so I'm trying to upgrade the stereo a little (a small amp and new speakers, namely). I agree that, when discussing a Defender, a sentence containing the words "stereo" and "upgrade" should be met with skepticism and a healthy amount of laughter, or at least a chuckle. To put it in perspective, my current speakers have paper cones, so the benchmark I'm shooting for is: "a little less crappy."

Thanks again!
Travis
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  #10  
Old February 18th, 2013, 03:58 PM
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Chris Murphy
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No sweat.

I ended up using the Polk Audio dB-series speakers on both of my trucks. They're reasonably priced, sound pretty good, and are weather proof/resistant, to boot. They're used on a lot of boating applications.
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  #11  
Old March 5th, 2013, 05:38 PM
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Travis Graham
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Well, this ended up being a moot point! I had to modify the stock spacers with the use of a 5.5" hole saw. After making a big mess with that, I offered-up the speakers and the magnet JUST cleared the bracket.

This turned out to be a lot easier than the rear speakers (I also needed to modify those housings), mostly thanks to those old rusty riv-nuts.

My benchmark of "a little less crappy" has been surpassed! It actually sounds decent now and has a modicum of bass! Of course, look at what was producing the sound before - that yellow tint is not because the cones are made out of Kevlar or anything...

Travis
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