Power loss and popping! - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 26th, 2004, 07:03 PM
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Yousef Hamzeh
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Power loss and popping!

I searched but did not find any info regarding my problem so here it is. Im experiencing a power loss and I can not rev the engine past 3400-3600 RPM and when I hit that mark the engine starts to make popping noise. No check engine light and no codes. It also ideals a little low sometimes at 400-600 rpm and when I try to rev the engine up the rpm don't want to go up and it also makes that popping noise. Ideas?

Thanks,
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  #2  
Old May 26th, 2004, 07:34 PM
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Hard to tell, but the popping noise is most likely a misfire. ? Electrical/ignition problem perhaps. Can't tell what year you've got - could be the old distributor come loose issue if it's an older one.
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  #3  
Old May 26th, 2004, 07:38 PM
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Dennis Newman
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Yousef,
I borrowed my dad's Discovery a few months ago and it started to do the same thing and slowly ended up not running. It ended up being that the fuel pump slowley crapped out and died.

Given the fact you were talking about yours making odd noises you may want to give it a check.

Dennis
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  #4  
Old May 26th, 2004, 07:39 PM
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Yousef Hamzeh
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It's a 95. I'd rather have something that came loose than replacing a part at the moment.
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  #5  
Old May 26th, 2004, 07:40 PM
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Yousef Hamzeh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnewman9
Yousef,
I borrowed my dad's Discovery a few months ago and it started to do the same thing and slowly ended up not running. It ended up being that the fuel pump slowley crapped out and died.

Given the fact you were talking about yours making odd noises you may want to give it a check.

Dennis
I hope not. It's a new fuel pump with less than 50 miles.

If that's the case I'm defiantly buying a new LR fuel pump assembly rather than the ghetto Caddi pump
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  #6  
Old May 26th, 2004, 09:32 PM
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I hate to ask a silly question but did you check the plug wires??!
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  #7  
Old May 26th, 2004, 10:24 PM
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Reset the ECU if it hasn't thrown a code yet! It should have. Mine did the same thing after I ran Seafoam through it, after I reset the engine it ran better then ever. If not start by checking the simple things first.
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  #8  
Old May 26th, 2004, 10:39 PM
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Yousef Hamzeh
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Peter, actually that is not a bad idea. I will do it tomorrow.

Mike, how do you reset the ECU? Discounting the battery?

Now could this be the problem. I heard that when you replace the fuel pump, the fuel filter should be replaced at the same time. Do you guys think that's why causing the power loss?
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Old May 26th, 2004, 10:41 PM
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Any thing is possible
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Old May 26th, 2004, 10:45 PM
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Sorry hit the button too fast. dissconnecting the battery for a few minutes is the easyest way to reset.
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  #11  
Old May 26th, 2004, 11:42 PM
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I had the same problem,it turned out to be a spark plug wire was arching against the manifold.Check your wires for a white powdery mark,that's where I had the break in the wire .Changed wire and all was fine.Since then I always carry a used spare set just incase.
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  #12  
Old May 27th, 2004, 12:20 AM
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Thanks Jorge, i will do that.
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  #13  
Old May 27th, 2004, 03:03 AM
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Yousef--It could very well be a bad zeener diode in your alternator. That is the symtoms with mine (except a distinct popping sound). If the other solutions don't pan out, check that. Tim at Simcor in Boulder re did mine with great sucess. (upon re-reading my post, I realize that my problem occured at around 2600 rpm. That said, I thought I would leave this intact in case it is still the alternator)
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Old May 27th, 2004, 01:56 PM
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I put a new Fuel filter, removed air filter just incase its dirty and restricting air, and made sure all the plugs are ok and it still doing the same thing. If I press the paddle slowly I can rev the engine up to 3600rpm but if I do it quick it won't rev, Boggs down, and loud popping from the air filter box.

Still no codes and I also discounted the battery for 15 minutes.

Any other ideas?
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  #15  
Old May 27th, 2004, 02:14 PM
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Can you check the fuel pressure? Seems like your not getting enough fuel. Turn the ignition to on and listen to the fuel pump, how long does it stay on and hows it sound?
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  #16  
Old May 27th, 2004, 02:16 PM
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Yousef Hamzeh
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I don't have a fuel pressure gage at tje moment. the fuel pump sounds healthy to me.
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  #17  
Old May 27th, 2004, 02:34 PM
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I had one of my catalytic converters replaced a year or so ago, and upon picking up the truck it ran just like that. No power, misfiring like crazy, choppy low idle, etc. Eventually, after driving home about 5-6 miles (I had to get it home!) it did throw a code. It was the 02 senser on the side the cat was replaced, the guy had fried it with his welding torch. I couldn't believe how badly one 02 sensor made the truck run. Kind of a long shot, but the symptoms are the same ('cept the check engine). You could always unplug one or both of your 02 sensors to test it (which should throw a code).
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  #18  
Old May 27th, 2004, 02:37 PM
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Yousef, you said 50 miles on the new pump right? I think your pump is clogged. I bet something small got in it and clogged it up. A coworker just said to pull the fuel line off the filter and stick it in the gas can, then have someone turn the key to on for a second, gas should shoot right out the end of the line, so be careful.
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Old May 27th, 2004, 02:44 PM
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Dave thanks for tip. I think I'll have Jeff check it out for me. I'm going crazy here.

Mike, actually after thinking about it my pump doesn't even have 15 miles on it. Now what is the purpose of pulling the fuel line? Is it to check if I have enough pressure, if so how am I suppose to determine that. It will shoot fuel either way right?
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  #20  
Old May 27th, 2004, 02:51 PM
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If you have good pressure it should shoot out pretty hard, if it's working poorly it will trickel out slow, if it's not working nothing will come out. I would think to be causing the problems you are seeing that it would not come out that hard. I think the required pressure is 30 or 40 lbs.
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