Powder Coating used springs ? - Defender Source
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Old February 17th, 2013, 08:34 AM
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Powder Coating used springs ?

So does the 3-400 degree temps required to powdercoat a used spring screw up the tempering/spring rate of the steel ? I have alway painted them for that reason.
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  #2  
Old February 17th, 2013, 08:40 AM
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Is there a "certain" PC that you need that is somewhat Flexible??? I don't think the heat will goof them up. A lot of very light gauge materials are PC'd and they don't warp or distort.
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Old February 17th, 2013, 08:45 AM
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not really would have to get around 500+ for any tempering to be affected
find out how long they are going to be baked ..5 -6 hours i would be concearned bu im sure powder coaters do a 1-2 hr bake
there are also low bake powder materials approx 340 deg ask about that

the process for a automotive
springs are Hardend around 760-800 deg then Quenched
Tempering is around 400-700
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Old February 17th, 2013, 11:09 AM
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A good shop will have a recommendation for a low temp coating (IE: Alesta that cures as low as 280 degrees) with a ~20 minute +/- low temp pre-heat, shoot with powder, bake 5-20min, and cool.

Any low temp PC that cures in 7-10 min at 350 deg or less will work. The challenge is how to hang/ground and still get complete coverage.
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Old February 17th, 2013, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
So does the 3-400 degree temps required to powdercoat a used spring screw up the tempering/spring rate of the steel ? I have alway painted them for that reason.
Ok so the tempering process usually takes hours and will normally take place in an oil bath at excess of 800 degrees. With PC the temp of material needs to hit around 350-400 degrees for usually no more then 10-15 minutes depending on the temp and cure time. I usually bake at 400 for 10 minutes, that is cure time not total time in the oven, now if not stated above depending on the thickness of material depends on the total oven time(it takes bigger thicker pc's longer to get to temp) that is what thermal hand helds are for. I usually preheat up to temp, then pull to spray then back in the oven until temp hits 400 degrees and then I set my timer.Also there is a huge difference between conductive(liquid) and convective(air) heating, so PC if done properly should not effect your progressive springs. PC I also flexible and there is not a specific type for springs, they do have special high heat for manifolds and exhaust, but I prefer ceramic coatings for exhaust. Similar process but different product. In conclusion you don't have to worry about PC temps affecting your progressive springs, and it will be a hell of a lot more durable than any paint.
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Old February 17th, 2013, 12:25 PM
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Seems like it is not as effective as just good paint (I love appliance epoxy and epoxy primer as a base coat after treating with rust converter).

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