Powder Coat Hinges? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 6th, 2015, 10:34 PM
ghoregon
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Greg H
1984 Defender 90 Ex-MoD
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Powder Coat Hinges?

Hi all.

My '86 Ex-MoD 90 door hinges are very tired so I am swapping them out with a new hinge kit from Rovers North. The hinges in this kit are completely bare and need to be finished prior to installation. I am thinking about powder coating them rather than painting.

I did a little Googling, but didn't find too much info on this topic. Wondering what the pros and cons are of powder coating versus painting. Would also love any feedback on powder coating companies near Richmond, VA.

Thanks for your help.

Greg
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  #2  
Old April 8th, 2015, 02:29 PM
skrufy
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Tim Timmins
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Do the hinges yourself- use gunkote from kgcoatings.com. multiple colors, bulletproof- much better than powder-coating IMHO, mil spec/ weapons grade, available in many colors, won't fade, and must be sand blasted off once it's baked on..... it's great stuff.

tim

ps- if you insist on powder coating, Eastwood has kits so you can DIY......
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  #3  
Old April 8th, 2015, 03:19 PM
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Jim Cheney
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I'd like to know about success with powder coating as well. I'm after a perfectly thin coating in the bolt holes and I've never had anyone get that right. A bolt always rips damages the paint somewhere and I'm careful.
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  #4  
Old April 8th, 2015, 03:29 PM
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Ed
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imho, paint over td5 hinges. far superior against rust.
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  #5  
Old April 8th, 2015, 03:34 PM
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Rajiv Malhotra
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Also in Richmond, VA and have some early rust stains on my 95 AA Yellow 90ST. Anxious to hear what you do and see some pics.

Raj
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  #6  
Old April 8th, 2015, 04:10 PM
skrufy
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Tim Timmins
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Guys-

If you try gunkote- you'll find it extremely durable, resists just about all chemicals, including acetone. Since yours is a MOD in OD, they make all those colors and more, and you can buy a small can, use a touch up gun. I use their etch primer first for better adhesion, and their degreaser spray. According to them , all contract US sniper rifles use their earthtone colors, and the Navy SEALS use it on all their weapons. Can you scratch it? yes, same as powder coat or paint, but it resists scratches and abraisions. You do have to bead blast it to correct mistakes- ask me how I know that.... As far as the rust on the yellow 90ST, to give you an idea of how tough this stuff is, gunkote had to pass some ridiculous- like 400-500 hours of continuous salt spray - on the SEAL weapons in order to pass- out of the spray tank, then full auto...... Their coatings are used on the International Space Station.

tim
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  #7  
Old April 8th, 2015, 07:41 PM
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Jason
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looked at those guys site seems pretty cool, only thing I don't like is they don't tell you the color just shows you the model number, and you have to bake it on would be hard to do with bigger parts.
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  #8  
Old April 8th, 2015, 07:46 PM
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Paul
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Just guessing here but I think the hing pin is the biggest contributor of rusty hinges. Until the pin is addressed I'm not sure if it really makes a difference how the body of the hing is coated.
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Old April 8th, 2015, 08:11 PM
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Robert Davis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skrufy View Post
Do the hinges yourself- use gunkote from kgcoatings.com. multiple colors, bulletproof- much better than powder-coating IMHO, mil spec/ weapons grade, available in many colors, won't fade, and must be sand blasted off once it's baked on..... it's great stuff.

tim

ps- if you insist on powder coating, Eastwood has kits so you can DIY......
You mean the 2400 Series Gun Kote?
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  #10  
Old April 8th, 2015, 10:09 PM
skrufy
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Tim Timmins
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Robert-

I have mostly used the 2400 Series, and the 2500 Metallics. Yes, you do have to bake them at 325F for an hour. I've limited myself to parts- mostly Porsche stuff, that will fit in "our" oven when my wife is away doing errands. It does give off an odor while baking, but much less than doing a self clean cycle if your oven does that. For real small parts, I use an old toaster oven. My wife has the nose of a bloodhound, and the smell doesn't bother her. I've thought of getting a used larger oven from the appliance guys, and having it outside of my shop. I have not used their 'Air Cure' series- no baking required.... As far as samples of the colors, they are great folks to work with- they might have color swatches, but I don't know that with any certainty. As far as the MOD 90/110s go, I think if all the hinges were done at once, it really wouldn't matter if Kg's OD was a slightly different shade, but that's just me. I agree, the rusting hinge pins seem to be the rust issue- why they aren't made out of stainless is a mystery- obviously would cost more. One thing with military vehicles you have to realize is the cost factor vs. the planned life expectancy of the vehicle in theater. Gasp! I'm also a jeep guy, have a restored '52 M38A1 Army Willy's and a matching '51 M100 trailer... for the 750,000?? WW2 Willy's MBs and the Ford contract GPWs made during the War, the planned combat life expectancy of those jeeps was a total of 90 days. The Military D90s are still under contract for the armies of like 60 countries thru 2025 at least, so rusty hinge pins and parts will still be available for a long time....

Try the gunkote- the small 2oz cans are about $8-9, and they give a !0% discount for 4 colors or more on an order. There are numerous youtube videos out there as well to watch.... With the Aircure, you can do plastics.

tim
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  #11  
Old April 8th, 2015, 10:23 PM
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Mark Bichin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
Just guessing here but I think the hing pin is the biggest contributor of rusty hinges. Until the pin is addressed I'm not sure if it really makes a difference how the body of the hing is coated.
Td5 hinges (the new style hinges) have a bushing in them that prevents water from getting in the hinge pin... Supposedly... But so far so good... My hinges went on a couple of years ago and no hint of rust yet... I don't know how those bushings would hold up under heat though....
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