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  #1  
Old January 16th, 2015, 11:38 AM
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Por15

Anybody heard of this stuff?
Continuing my upgrade/repairs and my underbody has some horrible rust spots that I want to get out now and this was what was recommended.
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  #2  
Old January 16th, 2015, 11:54 AM
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POR15 does not re-grow steel
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Old January 16th, 2015, 11:56 AM
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There's going to be rescaling done. Replacement of gas tank & brackets, repainting etc.
But what is por15? Can't find anything anywhere on it
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Old January 16th, 2015, 12:01 PM
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Por15.com is the site you are looking for.
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Old January 16th, 2015, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drdread View Post
There's going to be rescaling done. Replacement of gas tank & brackets, respond or reply painting etc.
But what is por15? Can't find anything anywhere on it
Google is your friend. It's pretty good stuff, but kinda pricey. I'm going to use the Industrial Rust-Oleum oil based paint on my D1 frame.
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Old January 16th, 2015, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
Google is your friend. It's pretty good stuff, but kinda pricey. I'm going to use the Industrial Rust-Oleum oil based paint on my D1 frame.
Thanks, my bad. I typed por115 by mistake, and got jack from Google. Anyone ever use this stuff? Given the extent of rust shown, will this work after rescaling, etc??
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Old January 16th, 2015, 12:07 PM
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It's good stuff..I've been using the KBS equivalent with positive results.

These types of coatings don't neutralize rust like many people think. They're just a VERY hard paint that ensure moisture and oxygen can't reach the metal, which keeps the underlying area from corroding any further. We usually sand blast and treat the area to be painted with an agent that converts the remaining rust into zinc phosphate.

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  #8  
Old January 16th, 2015, 12:08 PM
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The old man used it on my chassis and other parts of my truck. Make sure to do the prep work. It is UV sensitive'ish, they have a top coat you can apply if its going to see a ton of sunshine. Make sure it is HUMID outside when its curing as that is part of its curing process. Wear gloves when applying and old clothes as it will not come out in the wash and will stick to your skin till enough time has passed with your skin sloughing off.
To keep the leftovers in the can liquid for a longer period of time make sure to use a sheet of plastic between the lid and the can. You can also try using some gas to displace the air in the can when you close it up so it doesnt potentially form a skin or crust in the can.
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  #9  
Old January 16th, 2015, 12:19 PM
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Galvanized frame swap -- yes, it will cost more now, but you will better off in the long haul. Especially if ever selling. Please reconsider this option.
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Old January 16th, 2015, 01:39 PM
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POR-15 is great stuff, but as others have pointed out it will not help you based on those pictures.


Maybe you replace the rear crossmember and fuel tank cradle from replacement units at Rovers North if you can't afford a full frame swap at this time, but that area is well beyond POR-15.


If you want to use POR-15 on other areas with surface rust or pitting, that's great, but make sure there's no oil or grease because POR-15 is repelled by petroleum products. I used in inside my battery box, worked great.


Oh, and as Mr. Skidmore said, wear gloves when applying. If you get a drop on your skin it's like a tattoo. You'll have to molt like a lizard or scrub for many hours before that stuff comes off you skin.
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Old January 16th, 2015, 01:45 PM
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Maybe it is just me, but I've never been able to get POR-15 to last for a long time on an exposed chassis in winter driving. Even with the best preparation (sandblasting) within a couple of years, I get rust bleed through in places.

IMO, properly prepped base metal, epoxy primer and urethane top coat is the best way to go beyond hot dip galv.
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Old January 16th, 2015, 02:16 PM
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Thanks for the responses and helpful info. Replacing crossmember and cradle. Sandblasting and descaling. Clean up then Por15 and then a complete frame repaint.
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Old January 16th, 2015, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Maybe it is just me, but I've never been able to get POR-15 to last for a long time on an exposed chassis in winter driving. Even with the best preparation (sandblasting) within a couple of years, I get rust bleed through in places.

IMO, properly prepped base metal, epoxy primer and urethane top coat is the best way to go beyond hot dip galv.
Ditto. I've POR15'd my sliders and trailing arms and it hasn't really helped that much. I decided to go with the Rust-Oleum Professional. http://www.menards.com/main/paint/ex...281-c-8012.htm

We use that on the 2500 fire hydrants in the municipality where I work and it really is the best bang for the buck. I want to say it was closer to $20/gallon in the store.
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  #14  
Old January 16th, 2015, 02:27 PM
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It is UV sensitive. Also another big thing for it to really cure is to have a very high humidity level and you need some rust on the surface and prepping the surface properly so that it has something to bite too.
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  #15  
Old January 16th, 2015, 02:45 PM
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AL - from the looks of those pics, it looks like you will need a new rear crossmember with extensions, a new fuel tank cradle (preferably galvy) and new fuel tank mounts (they hold cradle to the frame). Then you can treat with whatever you want - POR/Waxoyl, etc. if you do a some searches you'll find some good info. for starters search for these threads

Rust Opinions

Rear Cross Member & Fuel Tank Cradle for NAS D90 question


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  #16  
Old January 16th, 2015, 03:41 PM
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POR15 used to make this stuff called POR-Patch—it came in a tube (like toothpaste) good for cosmetic fixes, like filling a hole, but not structural. The POR-Patch turns into a super hard surface and you can put it on thick. It can also be sanded after it dries.

I have used the patch and the paint and concur with what others have said: You don't want to get it on you at all. It does not neutralize rust. It will stop rust for a while, dependent on how dry you keep the rover underneath. I think it is a good option to fix some cosmetic things up if you need to buy some time to replace.

You also have to work quickly with it as it will skin over in the can while you are working. Make sure you do all of your prep ahead of time and plan your "coating session" so you can do everything you need in one stretch. When you are done, throw everything away. wear two pairs of rubber gloves--thin pair under thick pair. When you remove gloves, the inner pair will afford you the extra clean barrier. Seriously, don't get it on your skin, it is worse than superglue!
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  #17  
Old January 16th, 2015, 06:48 PM
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Just went through something similar. Definitely looks like xmember needs replacing, find a good welder and do a clean job and can patch other areas and can even build a new tank cradle. The rest you can POR15. Its good stuff, just has to be used exactly otherwise will chip off like anything else. I did axle and brake components and was very happy with results.
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