Por 15 vs. Eastwood - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 9th, 2010, 06:21 PM
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Eric Brown
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Por 15 vs. Eastwood

I have some rust on the under belly that I am finally getting around to tackling. I've read a lot about waxoyl, ospho, por15, eastwood, etc... and I need some advice from people that have actually used the stuff on Defenders. I think I've ruled out waxoyl as I want something more permanent and some people have some horror stories of waxoyl covering rust while it spreads.

I am thinking that if I go with Eastwood products I'll use their rust converter, sealer, then top coat it. If I do por15 I'll use ospho, then por15, then top coat it. I want to do it right, get everything sealed, and never have to do it again.

So I am really trying to hear from people that have used either product but preferably someone that has used both so they can compare them.

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old April 9th, 2010, 06:26 PM
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I have only used the POR15 product (patched floorboards, gas tank sealer, rust preventive paint, etc.) I'm using it right now on the a-frame arms. Works best on rough surfaces.

Haven't had any problems with POR15. Just my experience.
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  #3  
Old April 9th, 2010, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnC View Post
Haven't had any problems with POR15. Just my experience.
Same here.
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  #4  
Old April 9th, 2010, 07:38 PM
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i would suggest physically removing as much rust as possible, then use the rust converter of choice and then waxoyl.
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  #5  
Old April 9th, 2010, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamiamham View Post
i would suggest physically removing as much rust as possible, then use the rust converter of choice and then waxoyl.
What I do (POR 15 is too nasty for me) is mechanically remove the rust, spray can wal-mart rust converter, epoxy primer, epoxy black paint, waxoyl.

Works for me ....
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  #6  
Old April 10th, 2010, 01:33 PM
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I tried the eastwood stuff once but it came off due to my lousy prep job. I bought a POR-15 "starter kit" with all the prep stuff and tried that and it has held up pretty well. You really do need to follow the instructions + mechanically remove the rust. You'll spend a lot more time prepping than painting. I bought a dozen of the super cheap disposable paint brushes ($1-2) and threw them out every time I took a break for more than a few minutes. Wear gloves.
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  #7  
Old April 11th, 2010, 02:57 PM
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I have done 2 restoration with POR15. Honestly, unless it's rusted with a rough surface don't bother. Hardest part is the prep. Takes most of the time. It has worked very well for me. If it is exposed to sunlight make sure you topcoat it. It wll fade and look unprofessional. It's a tough finish, even tougher to remove from your forehead so becareful. I always transfer the leftover into a new can and leave it in the fridge. If you put the lid back on a used can with paint on it you wont be able to open it later.
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  #8  
Old April 11th, 2010, 03:28 PM
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George Kase
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I have used POR15 and it holds up very well...they recommend not going down to bare metal and just removing scale and flaking rust...the por15 then is supposed to be painted over the rusty surface but I do rust convert first...wear long sleeves, gloves and even a plexi-face guard as it won't come off your skin till it wears off...I have tried many rust converters and most of them don't really work to my satisfaction except for one, and that is Eastwood rust converter spray in a spray can...not the other eastwood stuff that is brushed on...they aren't the same and, in my opinion, of all of em out there like 3M or Dupli and others, Eastwood spray can stuff works...it actually converts the rust to a black coating that stops the rust...I have experimented on metal chassis parts out in my back yard and eastwood is the only one that stays non rusty while all the rest seem to revert to a rusting state...after the eastwood, I coat with POR15 semi-gloss black and it makes chassis parts look great...
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Old April 12th, 2010, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gkase View Post
I have used POR15 and it holds up very well...they recommend not going down to bare metal and just removing scale and flaking rust...the por15 then is supposed to be painted over the rusty surface but I do rust convert first...wear long sleeves, gloves and even a plexi-face guard as it won't come off your skin till it wears off...I have tried many rust converters and most of them don't really work to my satisfaction except for one, and that is Eastwood rust converter spray in a spray can...not the other eastwood stuff that is brushed on...they aren't the same and, in my opinion, of all of em out there like 3M or Dupli and others, Eastwood spray can stuff works...it actually converts the rust to a black coating that stops the rust...I have experimented on metal chassis parts out in my back yard and eastwood is the only one that stays non rusty while all the rest seem to revert to a rusting state...after the eastwood, I coat with POR15 semi-gloss black and it makes chassis parts look great...
George

POR15 has held up very well, 3 years so far...agree with everyone Prep is key.
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  #10  
Old April 12th, 2010, 05:07 PM
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Interesting to me thread since I started working on this last week (well.... I removed all the accessories and finished drilling out the rusty bolts that broke last night.....).
My plan is to remove loose rust (and any rust flake would come off with a wire brush), acid phosphoric it to remove rust further, then POR-15 then POR-15 top coat. My chassis is not _that_ rusted (still enough to have a small hole on the edge of the rear cross member). What do you guys call "rough" surface needed to apply POR-15? Is that "a little bit of surface rust" (vs. bare shinny and polished metal) or something else?

I've never used POR-15 before, but I plan to brush the visible part of my rear cross member with it, how is that going to look? "Brushed" or is that going to look flat/nice?

What did you guys do for the inside of the frame rails? Just pour rust converter and later waxoil through the (small) openings? (I can't see POR-15 working out unless I spend a lot of $$$ filling in the frame with it).

I do realize that the prep work is the most important one so I want to get this right the first time. Reading this thread, I am now thinking about converting the rust first. All comments are welcome!
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  #11  
Old April 12th, 2010, 05:21 PM
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I used POR-15 on my jeep underbody, frame and axles. I have also used it on a few things in my Defender (accessories). It is very durable once on. It needs a little rust to chemically bond, so if you were painting it on something with no rust, then you would want a little rust to develop. If the surface you are painting is smooth and shiny (due to lack of rust), then you can get their paint prep, which is a spray on acid that will pit the surface at a microscopic level to allow the paint to grab.

Light rust is best. Once it's on, it will look shiny and rough, like new antique cast iron.
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  #12  
Old April 12th, 2010, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonLand View Post
Interesting to me thread since I started working on this last week (well.... I removed all the accessories and finished drilling out the rusty bolts that broke last night.....).
My plan is to remove loose rust (and any rust flake would come off with a wire brush), acid phosphoric it to remove rust further, then POR-15 then POR-15 top coat. My chassis is not _that_ rusted (still enough to have a small hole on the edge of the rear cross member). What do you guys call "rough" surface needed to apply POR-15? Is that "a little bit of surface rust" (vs. bare shinny and polished metal) or something else?

I've never used POR-15 before, but I plan to brush the visible part of my rear cross member with it, how is that going to look? "Brushed" or is that going to look flat/nice?

What did you guys do for the inside of the frame rails? Just pour rust converter and later waxoil through the (small) openings? (I can't see POR-15 working out unless I spend a lot of $$$ filling in the frame with it).

I do realize that the prep work is the most important one so I want to get this right the first time. Reading this thread, I am now thinking about converting the rust first. All comments are welcome!
Not sure if you saw my post but I did a bit of what you are planning. Described it and took pics on this thread: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=22504
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  #13  
Old April 12th, 2010, 06:26 PM
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My chassis is not _that_ rusted (still enough to have a small hole on the edge of the rear cross member).
I hope you are going to cut out the rust and patch that spot since you are going to all this trouble anyway. You should be able to weld in a patch and grind it down flat.
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Old April 12th, 2010, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I hope you are going to cut out the rust and patch that spot since you are going to all this trouble anyway. You should be able to weld in a patch and grind it down flat.
You are giving me way too much credit..... After burning 1lb of welding wire and burning through 4-5 griding disk _maybe_ it will look kindda ok.... Unfortunately, the more I think about it the more it makes sense.... I did not want this to be that extensive, but it just makes sense. I just hate when you're right!
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  #15  
Old April 12th, 2010, 09:02 PM
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Man you should have just asked me and I would have told you the job becomes super extensive (on the prep side - you already got bit on the bolt side but you should know that by now).

I'll come help you patch it. Don't think it will be this weekend though. Maybe one weeknight next week?
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  #16  
Old April 12th, 2010, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by don View Post
Not sure if you saw my post but I did a bit of what you are planning.
I had not seen it, thanks for the link.
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  #17  
Old April 12th, 2010, 09:21 PM
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I have used both POR15 and several of the Eastwood products...as everyone has said the POR is awesome but does require a significant amount of prep and I don't always like the brush application. I followed the directions and tried spraying it with my HVLP paint gun but it flaked back off after about 3-4 months. I have had really good luck with the Extreme Chassis Black from Eastwood and like that it comes in aerosol cans as well as pints/quarts. I used a bunch of this on the frame and undercarriage of my Bronco and it has held up for almost two years now and looks almost as good as the day I sprayed it.
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  #18  
Old April 12th, 2010, 09:29 PM
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If I were to use a needle scaler would that be the right type of surface for the POR-15 application?


http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand.../dp/B0002STTDE
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  #19  
Old April 13th, 2010, 07:38 AM
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I have used both... POR-15 only once and I have a full stock of Eastwood stuff... that will give you which way I lean..
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