Poor idle on RRC - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 11th, 2016, 06:30 PM
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Poor idle on RRC

Starting new thread...

Still having idle issues on the RRC... Ordered some new hoses, replaced, no obvious changes. Replaced AICV with different one, no obvious changes. Cleaned out T connector, it was dirty, no obvious changes. Checked for any other loose hose connections, nothing noted. Tried to reset the base idle per the procedure link below. One thing I noticed, when I unplugged the AICV per step #11, the idle shot up to 2000 rpm, and step #12 didn't work out, even if I adjusted the hex screw all the way down (closed) it was still roaring at high rpm. According to the instructions, I should have been able to dial it down to <650 with the AICV unplugged. That wasn't happening.

Base Idle Setting Procedure | Range Rover Classic Maintenance

With the AICV plugged in, I can get it to idle ok around 750 rpm in Park, around 600 when in drive, but it still faintly searches and is not a clean idle, and worse when in park, better in drive.

Next suggestions...Fuel filter? Clean air idle valve? ECU issue? This has to be a simple fix, the engine runs beautifully otherwise. No interested in taking it in to shop for $120/hr guessing game... Any help appreciated!

Maybe this is just as good as it gets per say, and my ocd will just have to live with it.

Check out the video below, sorry to bore anyone, but I recorded the idle starting in Park, then to Drive, then back to Park. At :38 seconds, :57 seconds, and then for a span of time towards the end of the clip you can see some faint searching.

The thing is, the needle moving doesn't bother me, its the vibration feeling it makes like its just not clean. The vibration or hesitation is noticeable mainly from the interior.

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  #2  
Old May 11th, 2016, 06:38 PM
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Cat sensors/ wires intact? Just a guess be easy check.
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  #3  
Old May 11th, 2016, 06:58 PM
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That's as good or better than most motors idle.

And , if it runs good otherwise--I'd be inclined to go with it.


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  #4  
Old May 11th, 2016, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
That's as good or better than most motors idle. .
Good to know but all you can really see is the needle. You gotta sit in the truck to feel the spudder feeling. Like I said maybe it's as good as it gets.
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  #5  
Old May 11th, 2016, 07:01 PM
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Have you checked the TPS?
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  #6  
Old May 11th, 2016, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pl626 View Post
Have you checked the TPS?
I was told that would make the truck run like hell when driving. It runs fine other than idle.
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  #7  
Old May 11th, 2016, 07:10 PM
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Have you checked out the alternator? A dying one gives all sorts of whack-ass symptoms
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  #8  
Old May 11th, 2016, 07:14 PM
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Put a vacuum gage on it yet? Lots can be learned:
http://youtu.be/SdlNwm8OHco
Run a can of BK44 through the tank while fiddling for the fix.

------ Follow up post added May 11th, 2016 07:15 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Have you checked out the alternator? A dying one gives all sorts of whack-ass symptoms
As does a battery about to crap out.
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  #9  
Old May 11th, 2016, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Have you checked out the alternator? A dying one gives all sorts of whack-ass symptoms
I need to check it.

------ Follow up post added May 11th, 2016 04:17 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Put a vacuum gage on it yet? Lots can be learned: http://youtu.be/SdlNwm8OHco Run a can of BK44 through the tank while fiddling for the fix. ------ Follow up post added May 11th, 2016 07:15 PM ------ As does a battery about to crap out.
I hear mixed things about 44k on engines over 130k. Some say it could cause more issues if whatever breaks out starts to to circle around the system. Everyone has an opinion though.
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  #10  
Old May 11th, 2016, 07:23 PM
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Other than the "hesitation", it doesn't sound like much of an issue, especially given that it's not so weak that it's stalling on you shifting into drive or reverse. But, if you want to keep tweaking it, you haven't mentioned the so-called "PCV Kit" hoses, cleaning the MAF, or changing the air filter.
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  #11  
Old May 11th, 2016, 07:32 PM
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Just to be sure, undo the hose at the flame trap on the pass side rocker and see how the trap looks.



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  #12  
Old May 11th, 2016, 07:42 PM
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It's a little hard to be sure, especially without feeling the vibration, but I'm not sure I've ever heard a better idle than that.

Edit: I will say, however, that swapping over to my GM HEI setup did improve the idle on my 90 noticeably. I haven't done it to the classic yet, but the engine did feel noticeably smoother when I swapped.
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Old May 11th, 2016, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBeCinYa View Post
I was told that would make the truck run like hell when driving. It runs fine other than idle.


I'd hook it to a rovergauge to make sure. I had a sim issue, rovergauge read over 90% even though engine was at idle. I grabbed the TPS from my LWB, which I knew was good. Then no more idle issues.
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  #14  
Old May 11th, 2016, 08:43 PM
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Mine was running poorly at idle recently and I sprayed the hell out of the stepper and it's been fine ever since. (knock on wood)
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  #15  
Old May 11th, 2016, 08:44 PM
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Cleaned the flame trap, no gains.
Making my way back down back to T connection...does anyone know if this brass fitting should be in the top portion? If I remove it, the idle goes up, but once dialed down via the hex screw it seems somewhat smoother.



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  #16  
Old May 12th, 2016, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBeCinYa View Post
I need to check it. ------ Follow up post added May 11th, 2016 04:17 PM ------ I hear mixed things about 44k on engines over 130k. Some say it could cause more issues if whatever breaks out starts to to circle around the system. Everyone has an opinion though.
44k should be used as directed and you'll be fine.
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  #17  
Old May 12th, 2016, 08:18 AM
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Another thing, what's the condition of the motor/trans mounts?


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  #18  
Old May 12th, 2016, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Another thing, what's the condition of the motor/trans mounts? .
Pretty sure I need fresh motor mounts, not sure on trans. This can affect idle?
Kinda thinking there may be something to do with the alternator...gonna get it checked.
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  #19  
Old May 12th, 2016, 08:43 AM
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K, I'd pull each plug and check its appearance. Look for signs of poor burn like soot or oily residue. You may have a problem of a lot of carbon buildup on the valves or combustion chamber in one or more cylinders. I don't think your idling issues are external. Your worst case here is that the heads have to come off for decarbonizing.
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  #20  
Old May 12th, 2016, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBeCinYa View Post
Pretty sure I need fresh motor mounts, not sure on trans. This can affect idle?
Only if they're absent, but in theory, old motor mounts could affect the seat-of-the-pants feel.

When I put in QT motor mounts, it felt like the motor was bolted directly to the frame with no cushioning...



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