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  #21  
Old May 12th, 2016, 10:53 AM
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Don't waste your money on any additives. How many miles on this motor?

I would do a compression check and watch the ignition timing for a bit. You probably need a new cam, lifters, distributor gear, timing set, and a complete decoke along with refreshed or new injectors if you really want that to smooth out.

The additives won't do shit for you. Try scrubbing all that carbon off the internal parts of a motor and you will get a sense of the futility of thinking that a thimble full per gallon of additive will accomplish anything. BTDT.

Don't check the flame trap...replace it. The tee is supposed to have the brass fitting. If you take it out, you create vacuum leak after the MAF.

The Atlantic British website instructions are wrong, they leave out the step where you plug both ends of (or clamp shut depending on how old and dry rotted it is) the hose between the plenum throttle body and the IACV port. BTDT too!

I should let them know about that...
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
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  #22  
Old May 12th, 2016, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Don't waste your money on any additives. How many miles on this motor? I would do a compression check and watch the ignition timing for a bit. You probably need a new cam, lifters, distributor gear, timing set, and a complete decoke along with refreshed or new injectors if you really want that to smooth out. The additives won't do shit for you. Try scrubbing all that carbon off the internal parts of a motor and you will get a sense of the futility of thinking that a thimble full per gallon of additive will accomplish anything. BTDT. Don't check the flame trap...replace it. The tee is supposed to have the brass fitting. If you take it out, you create vacuum leak after the MAF. The Atlantic British website instructions are wrong, they leave out the step where you plug both ends of (or clamp shut depending on how old and dry rotted it is) the hose between the plenum throttle body and the IACV port. BTDT too! I should let them know about that...
If it needs all that I'll live with it. I'm just used to driving a 2015 truck daily that is perfect on idle obviously.

146k miles. Head gaskets replaced less than 10k ago. Not sure what else was done at that time.

Gonna check alternator as I kinda see a flicker in idle when any electrical pull happens, i.e. ABS pump.

Thanks for suggestions.
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  #23  
Old May 12th, 2016, 12:13 PM
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Drive it! that t-piece looks suspect.
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  #24  
Old May 12th, 2016, 12:24 PM
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In my experience the dying alternator is actually the voltage regulator going which eventually fries the Ignition Module. And most alternator shops don't test the regulator. And a good number of "rebuilt" alternators have suspect voltage regulators anyway. The workshop manual has a procedure for testing the ignition system, you might try running through that. Does it have the remote module kit?
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  #25  
Old May 12th, 2016, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
Drive it! that t-piece looks suspect.
What makes you say that? I cleaned it out, isn't broken. The brass fitting is strange though.
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  #26  
Old May 12th, 2016, 12:33 PM
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Ive never seen a Rover t-piece with that little brass doohickey sticking up like the one you posted the photo of.

finally watched the video, look and sounds smoooothhhh
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  #27  
Old May 12th, 2016, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
Ive never seen a Rover t-piece with that little brass doohickey sticking up like the one you posted the photo of. finally watched the video, look and sounds smoooothhhh
I thought that brass piece was also strange but apparently it serves a purpose. It's hard to tell from video, you feel more of the bad idle than hear/see.

Taking it up to Drew tonight. He can surely figure it out.
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  #28  
Old May 13th, 2016, 08:01 AM
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Ahh, be sure and report your findings
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  #29  
Old June 21st, 2016, 06:46 PM
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Had Classic at the shop to do some work, and they looked at the idle. Tech said the choppy idle is common but worked to try and pinpoint it. Put new AICV in, and set the base idle. Idle is still choppy especially when in park. Engine light has not come back on with code 48 since replacement and base idle reset (150 miles).
Tech said I could start throwing money at ignition parts, ect but it may not change. No issue with alternator.

I've swapped most hoses out to rule out vacuum leak. Cleaned flame trap. Checked for cracked hoses where I didn't replace. I did not replace the main hose with MAF. No change. Maybe I just haven't found the hose that's the issue.

My only thoughts are:

1. Swap out ECU to see if a different one makes any difference.

2. Remove power wire from electric fan set up from coil. Could this power draw cause distributor power interruption resulting in poor idle? Not sure why it was wired this way.

3. Fuel filter?

4. Live with it.

When driving there is no issue, when stopped at a stoplight its noticeable. When in park it's really noticeable. Never stalls or shuts off. I noticed when driving my D90 it kinda idles rough but not as bad as the classic.
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  #30  
Old June 21st, 2016, 07:26 PM
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Do these trucks have a flapper style afm? If so possibly remove the cover and move the copper sensing element a few mm up or down on the shaft so it contacts a different area on the contact strip.

Common issue on early bmw/Porsche engines.
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  #31  
Old June 21st, 2016, 07:57 PM
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Did the new stepper help at all? That ended up being my issue.
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  #32  
Old June 21st, 2016, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterSHO View Post
Did the new stepper help at all? That ended up being my issue.
Not that I noticed.
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  #33  
Old June 21st, 2016, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBeCinYa View Post
Had Classic at the shop to do some work, and they looked at the idle. Tech said the choppy idle is common but worked to try and pinpoint it. Put new AICV in, and set the base idle. Idle is still choppy especially when in park. Engine light has not come back on with code 48 since replacement and base idle reset (150 miles).
Tech said I could start throwing money at ignition parts, ect but it may not change. No issue with alternator.

I've swapped most hoses out to rule out vacuum leak. Cleaned flame trap. Checked for cracked hoses where I didn't replace. I did not replace the main hose with MAF. No change. Maybe I just haven't found the hose that's the issue.

My only thoughts are:

1. Swap out ECU to see if a different one makes any difference.

2. Remove power wire from electric fan set up from coil. Could this power draw cause distributor power interruption resulting in poor idle? Not sure why it was wired this way.

3. Fuel filter?

4. Live with it.

When driving there is no issue, when stopped at a stoplight its noticeable. When in park it's really noticeable. Never stalls or shuts off. I noticed when driving my D90 it kinda idles rough but not as bad as the classic.
Are you saying Drew couldn't fix it ?

------ Follow up post added June 21st, 2016 08:32 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Do these trucks have a flapper style afm? If so possibly remove the cover and move the copper sensing element a few mm up or down on the shaft so it contacts a different area on the contact strip.

Common issue on early bmw/Porsche engines.
Hitachi/Lucas hot wire afm
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  #34  
Old June 21st, 2016, 11:46 PM
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I doubt highly that your issue is anything related to the ECU. If it's getting fuel then you can probably rule that out. Look for horses not unicorns.
You don't mention whether you had your alternator tested.
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  #35  
Old June 22nd, 2016, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBeCinYa View Post
Not that I noticed.
It could still be a stepper issue. I cleaned then ended up replacing mine when it started idling high (1000-1200 rpm). The new no-name big box replacement idled too low (~500 rpm) constantly catching itself from stalling. Drove fine, but when approaching a stop, it died a few times as it was trying to maintain a constant idle. Just like you are describing. After a few months I paid $50 for a 'new' NOS Lucas stepper here (It happened to be used. The only thing new was the box and wax paper it was rolled up in) and it works perfectly. Solved everything. Still holds a rock solid idle a few years later.
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  #36  
Old June 22nd, 2016, 06:55 AM
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His last post says he replaced stepper motor
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  #37  
Old June 22nd, 2016, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
His last post says he replaced stepper motor
Saw that. I replaced mine with new and it created the same issues Matt is describing. I replaced a second time, and presto.
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