Plug weld panels with spool gun? - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old June 20th, 2016, 11:09 AM
Wilboro's Avatar
Wilboro
Status: Offline
William Ficner
1997 110 csw
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 688
Registry
Plug weld panels with spool gun?

I'm wondering if anyone has had success with a spool gun and plug welding panels on in place of the spot welds?

Specifically I'm in the process of some tub repairs and looking at attaching the rear flat panels. I'm debating rivets or if I should attempt a plug weld. The seam I'm particularly thinking about is the one where the rear panel joins the side panel and is covered by the corner capping, requiring a joint flush with the surface of the panel.

I've got a millermatic 252 mig and just picked up a used spoolmatic 30A. I've got no experience with the spoolgun yet so I'm wondering if I should even remotely consider this route. If it's a realistic option I would certainly being doing a bunch of practice first.

Anyone with experience in area please chime in.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old June 20th, 2016, 11:16 AM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
There are aluminium adhesives which would make it easier. My uncle, a master welder, welded my series tub with a spool gun and it was fine but he had been welding for 30 years. Still required grinding obviously.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old June 20th, 2016, 11:26 AM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,537
Registry
I recently redid my sw sides with plug welds using TIG and new 1/8" 3000 series aluminum. Plug hole diameter was 9/16", which allowed enough space to get the TIG arc onto the base aluminum with 1/8" tungsten sharpened to a point. Welds were performed at 120 amps. Clamping was very important.

It's possible with MIG, but you have significantly less precision in where the heat goes. My guess is that you'll have to have larger plugs, probably around 3/4" or so.

I highly recommend you perform 10-20 test panel plug welds with various plug hole diameters. You will have to experiment. It's altogether possible that you can do very precise plugs - it really depends on a lot of variables. The real issue is getting sufficient penetration and fusion (wetting) of the base layer before letting the pool fuse with the plug hole.

The end result won't look factory, nonetheless.

One note: I have been experimenting with spot welding aluminum using a cheap harbor freight spot welder and sandwiching the aluminum between strips of cheap mild steel. I have gotten varying results but I think that the technique is totally viable, especially with 3000/5000 series aluminum.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old June 20th, 2016, 03:04 PM
Wilboro's Avatar
Wilboro
Status: Offline
William Ficner
1997 110 csw
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 688
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
I recently redid my sw sides with plug welds using TIG and new 1/8" 3000 series aluminum. Plug hole diameter was 9/16", which allowed enough space to get the TIG arc onto the base aluminum with 1/8" tungsten sharpened to a point. Welds were performed at 120 amps. Clamping was very important.

It's possible with MIG, but you have significantly less precision in where the heat goes. My guess is that you'll have to have larger plugs, probably around 3/4" or so.

I highly recommend you perform 10-20 test panel plug welds with various plug hole diameters. You will have to experiment. It's altogether possible that you can do very precise plugs - it really depends on a lot of variables. The real issue is getting sufficient penetration and fusion (wetting) of the base layer before letting the pool fuse with the plug hole.

The end result won't look factory, nonetheless.

One note: I have been experimenting with spot welding aluminum using a cheap harbor freight spot welder and sandwiching the aluminum between strips of cheap mild steel. I have gotten varying results but I think that the technique is totally viable, especially with 3000/5000 series aluminum.


This is all great info and food for thought.
Im going to have do some experimentation for sure.

Interesting about the spot welder I've got a Aklands and Grainger (rebranded Miller) spot welder sitting in my storage container but didn't think it would be powerful enough to tackle the aluminum. Maybe I need to rethink that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
panels

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Freeze plug/exspansion plug replacement WildBoar Defender Technical Discussions 5 March 27th, 2015 03:16 PM
MIG Spool Gun Set Up $700 Wolf Fabrication For Sale - Parts 3 October 20th, 2011 07:59 AM
Weld on roll cage tabs? J.5 Defender Technical Discussions 12 July 17th, 2008 11:32 AM
someone to weld new rear xmember Gore Ranger Wanted 10 October 12th, 2006 08:59 PM
weld on motor mounts pendy For Sale - Parts 3 September 8th, 2004 03:10 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:05 PM.


Copyright