PLEASE HELP! Door top removal - Page 3 - Defender Source
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  #41  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
What do you use?
Nothing. Friction is enough to hold them in place.
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  #42  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:57 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Mmh. I find mine need to be tightened down nicely to make a nice seal with the door frame. Especially at Ron speeds!
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  #43  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by specops1526 View Post
You probably don't have to use a wire. Just try a putty knife, maybe a plastic one, and wedge it under the rubber gasket to free it up. Have you gotten the window to come up at all? Maybe a few centimeters? Obviously this would be easier if you have. Worse comes to worse, you can be "different" and cruise around with one window on.
I used a bigger prybar last week and was doing damage to the door bottom. Didn't budge. In fact I think I was bending the metal underneath that holds the metal tube. I've gotten putty knife and a dry wall cutter in specific locations with the help of a rubber mallet - enough to know that the seal isn't strong, but I haven' run it across the whole bottom of the gasket seal.

Yeah, I'll be that guy with one door top off. At least it's the driver side.
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  #44  
Old June 11th, 2010, 03:12 PM
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At Ron speeds with a FDS top, no seal is possible anyway.
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  #45  
Old June 11th, 2010, 03:49 PM
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Kelby Saxton
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The window studs were rusted in so bad on my truck, I worked, cussed, threw tools and did a little damage to my doors with very little luck. So, I took my truck to a mechanic shop and used a small impact hammer on the bottom of the studs and all four were out in less than 90 seconds. Replace with stainless, and they are nice and smooth. So forget the pry bars and the hammers, avoid the damage and use my method.
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  #46  
Old June 12th, 2010, 10:27 PM
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Jay S
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so after reading all these stories about getting these out I thought I would give mine a try - the nut did not come off the stud but the entire stud came out of the door top - yes the studs have fused together with the nut but hey the tops came off without much trouble - simple question is the new door stud from atlantic british at 99 dollars the ones from roversnorth is 10 a piece - am I missing something here? 40 or 99 seems like a obvious choice - where do you guys get new door studs from?
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  #47  
Old June 12th, 2010, 11:03 PM
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You can use a dremel and cut a slit in the nut and then use a chisel in the slit to open it up to remove the nut.

People say the AB studs are nicer, but I don't know as the factory ones work fine for me. YMMV

Kelby, that is a great idea.
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  #48  
Old July 23rd, 2013, 09:15 PM
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Whomever designed these doors should be fired!! I've been trying to get my door tops off for weeks (working on it on and off). Very frustrating. No luck so far. I've tried every tecnique mentioned on this site. They seem fused with rust. I'm on the verge of yanking the rubber seal, jamming Sawzall in the gap, and cutting the bolts. I'm about to crack!
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  #49  
Old July 23rd, 2013, 09:21 PM
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3ft pry bar?
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  #50  
Old July 23rd, 2013, 09:33 PM
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1. Took doors off
2. Pb blaster for. 3 days (upside down).
3. Ripped half the gasket seal out (can now see the plastic in the gap)
4. Did the double nut thing. No luck.
5. Whacked the stud over and over (destroyed the thread. Duh
6. Did a 1 foot pry bar. Started to damage the door bottoms paint.
7. 3 foot prybar next I guess. Concerned about damaging the bottom.

Argh!!! I'm a sweaty frustrated mess.

------ Follow up post added July 23rd, 2013 09:34 PM ------

By the way, removing the doors definitely helps with reducing the cabin heat!!
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  #51  
Old July 23rd, 2013, 09:34 PM
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I caution against prying too hard as you can dent both sides easily. I'd undo the hinges and remove the doors, flip them upside down and soak with pb-blaster for days than way before resorting to too much force.
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  #52  
Old July 23rd, 2013, 09:37 PM
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I guess our posts overlapped. I see you have done that already. Good luck with the prying. I would try use some sheet metal to help spread the load.

And don't get the idea to remove your AC while your doors are off like I did
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  #53  
Old July 23rd, 2013, 09:41 PM
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Great idea on the sheet metal. Im about to get medievil on these doors.

------ Follow up post added July 23rd, 2013 09:48 PM ------

Wouldn't sawzalling the bolts in half between the gap, then tapping them out once the tops are removed, be safer for the door bottoms than prying? I'm afraid I will destroy the door bottoms with heavy prying.
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  #54  
Old July 23rd, 2013, 09:51 PM
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Heat...


Time to get out the torch. Use some peppermint oil to penetrate the nut and bolt unit.
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  #55  
Old July 23rd, 2013, 10:03 PM
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What is peppermint oil? And where/how should I apply the heat - bolt or metal sheath?
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  #56  
Old July 23rd, 2013, 10:06 PM
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Be very careful with prying - I've seen many who have dented their door bottom cappings. At least you have walked away from it for the night. Best to sleep on it and go back to it again with a clear head.
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  #57  
Old July 23rd, 2013, 11:59 PM
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On a series rig, I had to cut the studs and then drill the remaining bits out of the door bottoms. I hate rust.
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  #58  
Old July 24th, 2013, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssi19 View Post
What is peppermint oil? And where/how should I apply the heat - bolt or metal sheath?
Peppermint Oil

Heat to the bolt - expansion of the metal can shock the rust welded connection.
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  #59  
Old July 24th, 2013, 10:04 AM
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As mentioned try some heat, then hit it with some Loctite Freeze & Release. Look for my post in the other door top removal thread.
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  #60  
Old July 24th, 2013, 10:13 AM
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Thanks all. Off to the salt mines again today. My family is beginning to miss me.
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