PLEASE HELP! Door top removal - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old May 28th, 2010, 06:13 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Gery you need bigger/stronger friends!

Just kidding. You got that pry bar well in there so that must be really stuck. You may not like this idea, but consider removing the door hinge bolts (on the bulkhead side) and then flipping the door assembly upsidedown will allow you to put the pb-blaster where it counts.

hth
charles
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  #22  
Old May 28th, 2010, 07:36 PM
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Tony Lawson
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as another add - the pics bring back bad memories - those sleeves, if a little too long (longer than the tube in the door), will get compressed axially by the nut when tightened and the only thing they can do is swell in to the threads and out where they are long - this creates a lock. That, with a sticky gasket and any swelling, will be a bear to get to release.

Have you tried putting nut(s) on the very end of the stud (to protect the threads) and tapping the stud (while someone lifts the window frame)? good luck
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  #23  
Old May 28th, 2010, 11:20 PM
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Get a 3ft prybar at sears. Also make sure the nuts are off the studs. I had one that would not budge -- someone put TWO nuts on it and I only removed one.
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  #24  
Old June 2nd, 2010, 02:48 PM
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So yea, I figured I'd post this here as well for future reference.

Instructions for both removing the windows, and installing the new studs:

PDF: Window Stud Mounting Instructions.pdf

According to Gulf Coast Rovers.

http://www.gulfcoastrovers.com/pages...all.asp?page=1


Tools Needed:
  • 15mm deep well socket and ratchet
  • Vice grips
  • Screwdriver or small pry bar
If windows are difficult to remove, we recommend these additional tools:
  • 15mm open end wrench
  • Crescent wrench
  • #2 Phillips screw driver
  • Hammer
  • Round file
Additional good items to have:
  • WD-40
  • M8x1.25 tap and tap handle
  • Silicone spray
  • Silicone or Permatex "Right Stuff"
  • Touch up paint
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Window Stud Mounting Instructions.pdf (299.9 KB, 166 views)
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  #25  
Old June 11th, 2010, 01:05 PM
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Good idea or bad idea?

Last weekend I learned it may be impossible to remove a door top when
the plastic sheath and studs are fused to the door bottom stud holes.

I'll just say no amount of pb blaster or wd will help
loosen if it's really on there. I don't think removing the whole door
will do anything to help remove a badly stuck door top.

So, my next "idea" involves using first a hair dryer, then a butane or propane torch if the dryer is unsucessful. My plan is to heat up the metal tubes that hold the plastic sheath and studs. The hope is the metal will expand enough to help free the doortop.

If that doesn't work I'm thinking of melting the plastic sheaths using
the torch. I am ready to sacrifice them to get the top off. Sorry Ron,
I know I promised them to you.

Is this a bad idea? I know there is a chance I may damage the door
bottom but I'm running out of ideas. Thanks again for your suggestions.
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  #26  
Old June 11th, 2010, 01:10 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Sounds like a really bad idea to me. You will surely damage the door, if not just paint, worse.

Have you tried putting on 2 nuts and undoing the stud from the door top? It might just take that rotation force to free the studs.
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  #27  
Old June 11th, 2010, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Sounds like a really bad idea to me. You will surely damage the door, if not just paint, worse.

Have you tried putting on 2 nuts and undoing the stud from the door top? It might just take that rotation force to free the studs.
Yes
I am stripping the threads doing the two nut thing. They are on there tight like they are fused.
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  #28  
Old June 11th, 2010, 01:20 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Do you know anyone with a welder? You'd be better off putting a spot weld on the nut and cranking it out then trying to heat up the door. The weld itself will generate some heat on the stud which should help things too.
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  #29  
Old June 11th, 2010, 01:21 PM
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You of course have the door panels off right? Take a picture of the tubes where the studs come through and see how badly rusted they are. And what is the condition of the door bottom rails? If the stud-holes look like a rust blossom and the door bottoms are in bad shape, it might just be time to write-off the doors and buy new ones...
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  #30  
Old June 11th, 2010, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
You of course have the door panels off right? Take a picture of the tubes where the studs come through and see how badly rusted they are. And what is the condition of the door bottom rails? If the stud-holes look like a rust blossom and the door bottoms are in bad shape, it might just be time to write-off the doors and buy new ones...
There are pictures of it with the door panels off above. The studs are rust free from what I can see and the driver side (which came off easy) were rust free also. The door bottoms are in excellent shape in my opinion.

I am bringing in my rover to a place that has welding equipment next Friday (A muffler shop that has done work previously on my rig) Perhaps I can persuade them to give it a spot weld on the nuts and try removing the studs that way. They are prettty busy there, but maybe if I bribe them.
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  #31  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:17 PM
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I was looking at those pix, but couldn't really tell the condition of the tubes themselves. There don't appear to be any rust-runs down the inside of the door skins though. Sorry if I'm missing something else in the thread, but are you sure you've split the rubber seal from the door top along the entire length? Also, have you taken the door off yet and engaged in "controlled-whacking" (for lack of a better term) with a heavy mallet and a piece of wood held up against the studs?

Also, have you locked vice-grips onto the studs and attempted to unscrew them from the door tops? You can get a pretty powerful wiggle going. Worst-case, if you twist them off the you can just drill the remaining piece out of the door top and insert the new stud.
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  #32  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:21 PM
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I just thought of a good way to make sure he has broken the rubber seal. Take a piece of wire (strong stuff) and work it under the rubber at one end, and in a sawing motion you should be able to work it up to the stud. It may be tricky to get started on the inner side of the stud, but if you can, work it all the way over to the other stud. This will at least rule that out as whats holding the top.

The weld was my version of the vice grip idea. But the vice grips and the controlled whacking can both easily lead to door skin damage.
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  #33  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:24 PM
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I got $50 that says if you come to my house I have it off in under 30 minutes. 3ft prybar, chisel, hammer etc. If you can get one stud out, you can remove the door and spin the door top to unthread the stud from it and then hammer the stud through the door.
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  #34  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
I was looking at those pix, but couldn't really tell the condition of the tubes themselves. There don't appear to be any rust-runs down the inside of the door skins though. Sorry if I'm missing something else in the thread, but are you sure you've split the rubber seal from the door top along the entire length? Also, have you taken the door off yet and engaged in "controlled-whacking" (for lack of a better term) with a heavy mallet and a piece of wood held up against the studs?

Also, have you locked vice-grips onto the studs and attempted to unscrew them from the door tops? You can get a pretty powerful wiggle going. Worst-case, if you twist them off the you can just drill the remaining piece out of the door top and insert the new stud.
I haven not removed the door completely off, but I have had fun with a sledge hammer and a block of wood with the help of a friend. I can't believe I haven't broken any window with the whacking I have been doing. There is another story that hasn't been told, but I won't go into it here.

I put vice grips on the studs, but stopped because I was destroying the threads (trying to save them for evilfij) I think I was getting more torque doing the two nut thing anyway.
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  #35  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:33 PM
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I have a die. Don't worry about the threads and me. I don't put nuts on my door studs anyway. Just stick the 3ft pry bar in there and lever away. It will come off.
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  #36  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I don't put nuts on my door studs anyway.
What do you use?
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  #37  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I just thought of a good way to make sure he has broken the rubber seal. Take a piece of wire (strong stuff) and work it under the rubber at one end, and in a sawing motion you should be able to work it up to the stud. It may be tricky to get started on the inner side of the stud, but if you can, work it all the way over to the other stud. This will at least rule that out as whats holding the top.

The weld was my version of the vice grip idea. But the vice grips and the controlled whacking can both easily lead to door skin damage.
I'll try the wire thing, but the other side came off easy which makes me believe its just the stud problem.

I can tell you that I know that "controlled" whacking can lead to door skin damage. I've got a little experience in that department.
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  #38  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:40 PM
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Yeah sadly I think "controlled" and "whack" should not be allowed to be used in the same sentence in this context...

Make sure the seal is clear, but a baby weld (still use 2 nuts) and a long bar and that puppy will turn.
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  #39  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I got $50 that says if you come to my house I have it off in under 30 minutes. 3ft prybar, chisel, hammer etc. If you can get one stud out, you can remove the door and spin the door top to unthread the stud from it and then hammer the stud through the door.
Wish I was closer Ron.

I've done the spin thing. Let me tell you......story to be told later (maybe)
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  #40  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:49 PM
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You probably don't have to use a wire. Just try a putty knife, maybe a plastic one, and wedge it under the rubber gasket to free it up. Have you gotten the window to come up at all? Maybe a few centimeters? Obviously this would be easier if you have. Worse comes to worse, you can be "different" and cruise around with one window on.
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