Please Help...Cant use my D90 off road due to overheating... - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old July 9th, 2010, 11:45 PM
texmoto
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david summers
99 Discovery II
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Try this web site: aluminumv8.org/Articles/Rover-14CUX-EFI.htm

To answer you question, a bad crankshaft position sensor will keep you from getting spark. I'm not sure if it will prevent fuel pulse as well. A bad ECU will also cause lose of both.

I would feel a lot better about trouble shooting this if you got a spark plug tester. I dont know how difficult that is for you, but its much more reliable (and safer) than other methods. BTW, an ohm/volt meter is also required. AND, everything I'm about to discuss is assuming your fuel delivery system is peachy.

It sounds as if the ECU is not getting the signal that spark is occuring. If it doesn't get the spark signal, then the ECU will not trigger the fuel injectors. To check if this is occuring, you need a little diode thingy that plugs into fuel injector plug. It will flash when you crank the engine IF the signal is coming down the wire. Dont know where to buy one there; I borrowed a set from a local garage. Not a LR specific tool. Any decent garage that works on EFI vehicles should have a set.

The above link is mostly about OBD I engine management, so not sure how much it will help. However, take note about the tiny 6.8K ohm resistor. I dont know if 97s (aka OBD II) have one. On pre 96s all do and if they fail (or heavy corrosion, ect) the vehicle will not start. Ignition system, ECU and fuel system will all test okay, except for fuel injectors not firing (i.e. no pulse to the injectors). The reason is that line is the only connection from the ignition to the ECU that triggers the ECU to fire the fuel injectors.
Again, I don't know if 97s have one, but its worth checking out.

Also, IF at all possible, try swapping ECUs with a known good one. That will allow you to at least rule out the ECU as the problem.
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  #22  
Old July 10th, 2010, 01:18 PM
Cmikefly
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William Challancin
97 NAS D90
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David,
Thanks. I did not mention it but I do have an injector test light. I don’t have a spark tester but laid the plug on ground and tested in complete darkness so I believe I should have seen sparks jumping several inches with the coil packs………
Anyhow I THINK I fixed the problem. As mentioned I had cut and spliced the wires to the crank sensor when doing the head gaskets. Today I pulled the plenum again and re-spliced the wires using shielded aviation wire and aviation shielding splice ferules from work. I inspected the original splice and it looked fine but after putting everything back together the truck started perfect and has continued to start and run all day. I will continue to post if anything changes.
Thanks everyone
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  #23  
Old July 10th, 2010, 07:05 PM
texmoto
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david summers
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Good. I hope that is it. Thanks for the follow up post.
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  #24  
Old July 11th, 2010, 05:03 PM
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mikeslandrover
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Mike Hammond
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Many years ago I had a V8 that blew it's coolant out all the time. Messed about with the thermostat, rad etc. all without a result only to eventually find a VERY small leak in the head gasket that pressurized the system. There was no noticeable loss in performance while all this was going on. Hope this helps, new head gaskets fixed it. there was only the slightest dis-colouration to show the failure.
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  #25  
Old July 13th, 2010, 08:44 AM
Cmikefly
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William Challancin
97 NAS D90
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Hi,
thanks for the suggestions, but the system is holding pressure and coolant now. I installed an Allisport overflow tank that uses a Disco cap and I was not tightening it down enough. I had the hood up and could hear a slight hissing from around the cap. Tightened 1/8th of a turn and it sealed up nice…………and I’m still overheating (205-210).



I just ordered an external engine oil cooler with fan to mount on the skid plate. We will see if that helps. The truck is drivable now but I would like it to sit on 190 and never move. (like it does all winter until the OAT reaches about 105).


I will continue to post…
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  #26  
Old July 13th, 2010, 03:08 PM
outfield
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Steve
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I believe I read on a thread here that a guy was having constant over heating issues and it was caused by the automatic transmission. Do you have an auto? The Auto Trans was heating up, which in turn heats up the engine coolant in the radiator, so the engine ran hot. I don't recall what was wrong with the tranny.
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  #27  
Old July 13th, 2010, 03:23 PM
Cmikefly
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William Challancin
97 NAS D90
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Good suggestion however on the 97s the transmission cooler is external and the engine oil cooler in within the radiator. As others have suggested i am planning on installing an external engine oil cooler so that that heat is radiated into the airstream not the engine coolant.
I don’t think it gets cool enough here to worry about a thermostat but I guess I will try to figure that out if the setup helps.
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