Pittman arm removal? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 30th, 2004, 07:42 PM
dameek
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Dennis Meek
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Pittman arm removal?

I have spent considerable amount of time over the last two days trying in vain to remove the pittman arm from me 95 D90. I have the correct tool, but the arm will not budge. Would it be safe to try and heat the arm with my torch while using the puller?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

DAMeek
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  #2  
Old October 31st, 2004, 12:04 AM
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Just smack it hard with a hammer, not down like you would think but fron the side while you are using the puller tool. It will come off.
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  #3  
Old October 31st, 2004, 11:29 AM
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Robert Dassler
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Dennis,
You can probably heat it too, just don't set anything on fire and be careful of the bottom seal. I have a Snap-On puller that I use...but I'm on my second one as I have broken them...sometimes these things are really tight. Heat will probably help if it's really rusty or if someone put loctite on the splines on a previous repair. Be very careful, though, as these things can come apart suddenly and having heavy tools and red hot rover parts flying around under the truck with you can get you hurt.
I changed the steering box on a 110 and could not get the arm off in the truck. With the box on the floor and the puller under tension and heating it and hitting it with a hammer it finally let go...the box jumped about a foot off of the floor and took a divot out of the concrete, and tools and pitman arm went all over the shop. Since that experience, when I have one that's really tight I take the precaution of securing the pitman arm and the puller to the truck with a short strong cord or rope to keep things contained and wear a face shield and gloves.
Good Luck, Rob
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  #4  
Old October 31st, 2004, 12:26 PM
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Chris Davis
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I also used a snap on puller and it was pretty friggin tight when it finally came off with a BANG! Those pullers are really something--it really helps to have a puller with the cross-bar that keeps the legs from separating. What also works for some is to use the puller and with it under tension, use an impact hammer on the side of the arm. Good luck--it will come off.
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  #5  
Old November 2nd, 2004, 10:10 PM
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Dennis Meek
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Pitman Arm removal

First of all I want to thank those that gave me suggestions on removing a very stubborn pitman arm. After five days and two pullers I have given up and will be ordering a power steering box and new pitman arm. I have taken plenty of drop arms off my other vehicles, but this one has beaten me.
It's the original drop arm on my 95 Defender. I bought it new in 95 and this is the first major parts replacement I have had to do. I will try again once it is out of the vehicle and if I succeed, I will return the used unit for a core refund or if not keep it and work on trying to get the arm off when my frustration level has dropped to a sane leve.

Thanks to all of you,

dmeek
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  #6  
Old November 3rd, 2004, 12:04 AM
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jim pendleton
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I have done that job prolly 12 times or more. There was one that kicked my butt and broke an OTC puller. Even with heat on a lift. So I turned it all the way to the left, removed the panhard rod mount and rebuilt the worn out tie rod on the vehicle. It can be done.

JP
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  #7  
Old November 3rd, 2004, 12:24 AM
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Thanks JP.

dameek
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  #8  
Old November 3rd, 2004, 02:01 AM
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IR2135Ti + SNAP ON puller.

BFH

Off, in 30 seconds
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  #9  
Old November 4th, 2004, 09:49 PM
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Dennis Meek
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Thanks for the info Ron. I picked up the 2135ti and am wondering about the puller from SnapOn. Is it the one for domestic cars and light trucks or is it the puller for 2-ton trucks and heavier?

Thanks again. I realy appreciate all of the responses and comments.

dameek
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  #10  
Old November 4th, 2004, 10:59 PM
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It looks like a cup.

I will see if I can find it.

Hold on:

I am pretty sure it is this one:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_d...re&dir=catalog

But I am not 100% sure, you would have to see it in person and make sure it is the right size (big enough to get over the arm). The one I use looks exactly like this one here. Since there is no picture for the two ton one and it is less money I am guessing the one I posted above is right. I would buy both and return one if the guy will let you.

The procedure is as follows. Spin off the big nut but not all the way. Attach puller. Hit the bolt on the puller with the 2135Ti and it should come off. If not while torqued up with the 2131Ti hit the pitman arm with a big f***ing hammer.

It will come off.

Took me 30sec once the nut was loose. We used the same technique at the dealer and never had an issue of getting it off.
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  #11  
Old November 4th, 2004, 11:29 PM
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Dennis Meek
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Thanks Ron. I will keep you posted. But I feel confident that if I follow your procedure it will work. I am very impressed with the IR 2135Ti impact wrench.

dameek
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  #12  
Old November 4th, 2004, 11:40 PM
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I refer to mine as "big pimpin' "

IR2135Ti has never let me down. Just keep it oiled and all will be well.

Another trick which I have never had to resort to is wiggling the arm back and forth by wacking the end. This will free it if it is stuck due to spline wear which is highly unlikely.
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  #13  
Old November 8th, 2004, 06:11 AM
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Jason Herring
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Just on a side note, I rebuilt mine on the vehicle with a rebuild kit I got from West Coast Rover. Do you just want to replace a worn drop arm, or the steering box? They aren't that hard to rebuid...
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  #14  
Old November 8th, 2004, 11:23 AM
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kevin
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Jason,

I am considering rebuilding the ball joint in place since I can't budge the pittman arm. Did you use a compressor when you took the C-clip off?
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  #15  
Old November 8th, 2004, 06:12 PM
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Jason Herring
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I actually considered taking off the arm but after talking with Eddie at West Coast Rover he said to rebuild it in place, so I did. I used penetrant, heat, etc to work the c-clip off. It wasn't easy! But I didn't want to beat on the pitman arm any more and thought I might actually damage the steering box somehow that way.

You might want to call Eddie at West Coast Rover - he's a nice guy and could perhaps offer advice. Mine looked really rusty but in the end came off easier than I thought it might.

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  #16  
Old November 10th, 2004, 01:17 AM
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Dennis Meek
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Well, I ended up taking the steering box out since removing the pitman arm was out of the question. Originally, I wanted the pitman arm off so I could rebuild the ball joint. But when I removed the old ball joint, the lower socket would not budge. And when it wouldn't budge, there was no way that I could rebuild it while it was on the vehicle.
Anyway, since I couldn't get the pitman arm off I took the steering box out to get the arm off. When I couldn't do that I was still reluctant to put out cash for another box so I went to work on the lower socket. It took all of 3 hours of heating and using a drift to finally get it out. I used my air grinder to clean up the beveled edge and installed the lower socket. I used a 12" c-clamp, plus a 4" long socket over the ball joint and a 1/2" nut on the bottom plate, compressed it and installed the circlip.
I will spend tomorrow evening reinstalling the steering box.
With all the responses and support you all were providing me I decided I couldn't give up on this project. I can't thank you all enough.
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  #17  
Old October 10th, 2009, 01:31 PM
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While looking over this thread, I realize that us guys with the California trucks have it a lot easier. I remember just using a tie rod seperator and a couple of taps with a hammer it was free. No rust of marks on the box shaft either, except the pitman arm wouldn't seat all the way on the rebiult box, enough for it to work safelythough, even tried using a jack to push the pitman arm up and it lifted the whole truck up!
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  #18  
Old October 10th, 2009, 02:25 PM
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steve
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x2 with CA being easy. Never had a problem getting it off.

Whats the deal with it not seating correctly with a new box. Did you get it from meridian?
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  #19  
Old October 10th, 2009, 02:52 PM
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Neil McCauley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user
x2 with CA being easy. Never had a problem getting it off.

Whats the deal with it not seating correctly with a new box. Did you get it from meridian?
Yep Meridian, I think I need like a jack hammer type of pressure on it for it to go in, probably was just a tight one, I mean most of it is on and I did check to see it was keyed correctly, just mabye a couple of blows and it will go all the way seated, its only like 1/4 not seated.
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  #20  
Old October 10th, 2009, 03:00 PM
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steve
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Same here.
FYI after about 30k I noticed some slop in the steering and I thought the box wearing, but it turned out the pitman arm was loose. The nut did not move, it seemed the splines bedded or something. Tightened it up and it has been fine since, but worth checking out.

Follow-up Post:

oh ya... mine is also leaking now, bad. Well out of warranty, but I'm not exactly happy about it.
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