Pinion Seal Leak, Salisbury Diff - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 7th, 2004, 06:53 PM
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Pinion Seal Leak, Salisbury Diff

My pinion seal just started leaking pretty profusely, and I'm about to go off on a 30 hr trip, 2 days highway and 1 day off road (NVTR). Might not have enough time to replace before I leave.

1. Anyone have an idea if a leaking pinion can empty the diff (the pinion seal is pretty high in terms of fluid level so at rest it could never drain out)?
2. Anyone have any experience with a bad pinion leak, and have an idea of the range I might expect to get between fluid check/top ups?

Thanks,

Doug W.
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  #2  
Old December 7th, 2004, 07:11 PM
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Doug, I don't know much about the sals, but you may want to search on pirate 4x4 as the sals is almost (or is) the same as a D-60 and you might find what you need there.

Can you pull the rear drive shaft off the diff and check the pinion nut too see if it is loose?
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  #3  
Old December 7th, 2004, 07:41 PM
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Thanks, Mike. I'm going to see if I can get in there.

Checked pirate -- mostly talk about running 'em dry. Doesn't sound too threatening to let it dribble. I just hate the uncertainty during this event. Did one of 'em with a screeching throw-out bearing and made it all the way, but what a distraction!! We'll see.

Doug W.
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  #4  
Old December 7th, 2004, 07:58 PM
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Doug, make sure your breather isn't clogged, that might cause the leak. I've seen brand new pinion seals fail on stock D90s but don't have any experience with the Sals, sorry. Good luck at NVTR!! Kick some ass!!
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  #5  
Old December 8th, 2004, 08:18 PM
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Doug,
The OEM seal on the Salsbury diff is actually a leather lipped seal. When replacing, I'd see if a competent industrial seal shop could match it to a more modern replacement...you might have to take them the pinion flange and the old seal to get dimensions. If not, remember to order the paper gasket that goes behind it when ordering the seal. When tightening the pinion nut, be careful...this diff uses a crush sleeve for pinion bearing preload. I'd make sure the vent is clear and keep it topped up. Those leather seals can be pretty horrible, but you may find that after it warms up and becomes more pliable it may leak less...or not.
As to experience, I had a 110 come through the shop a couple of years age that a local quick lube place had screwed the fill plug in so far that it fell into the diff. The truck left and drove around until the diff was mostly empty. I pulled the rear cover expecting to find destruction. I found what was left of the fill plug in the cavity between the 2 pinion bearings, all chewed up. However, the gears were completely unmarked and the bearings were fine despite the lack of lubrication and the foreign object bouncing around in the gears. A new cover and some fresh lube and the diff is still fine today, which pretty much sums up the robustness of the diff design. It also holds as LOT of oil compared to the Rover diff. Hope that helps.
Rob
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  #6  
Old December 8th, 2004, 08:20 PM
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  #7  
Old December 8th, 2004, 10:20 PM
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Thanks, all. Ran down to a local shop today and had the seal replaced -- took 45 minutes and also replaced the nut and gear oil and put in a magnetic drain plug I've had lying around. No sense gambling -- but I do hear that Sals can run dry, like Rob says, for quite a while.

Doug W.

PS: Been snowing in the mountains around Lovelock, we're taking two sets of chains per truck -- expecting to find some sizable drifts on the shelf roads out there. We'll be running late on Saturday, prolly 5 or 6 hrs of nighttime rally ending off around 10 or 11PM. Gonna be wild!

PPS: You can still enter. www.offroadexperience.com. Come play!
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  #8  
Old December 8th, 2004, 10:22 PM
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Standard Dana 60 seal from any ol' rear 60 from an American truck will work... The Sals uses a crush sleave so you will need to re torque the pinion nut to 125 ft pounds after changing it...

You won't empty the diff driving it around for a few hundred miles but while leaking you should at least check it once in a while... The same oil lubes the wheel bearings..

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  #9  
Old June 2nd, 2008, 06:09 PM
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digging this up...

Anyone have a suggestions on a brand for a dana 60 seal?

I would like to stop my leak once an for all!
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  #10  
Old June 2nd, 2008, 07:30 PM
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  #11  
Old June 2nd, 2008, 07:33 PM
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thank you much!
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  #12  
Old August 4th, 2008, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revor
...re torque the pinion nut to 125 ft pounds after changing it...
..

Keith
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Is that right?? I thought it was supposed to be much looser?
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  #13  
Old August 5th, 2008, 10:11 PM
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If the crush sleeve has already been 'crushed' 125 foot pounds is about where you should go to, any more will start to crush the sleeve some more.
You can also mark the nut to the pinon with a paint marker. An old rule of thumb was on an older diff it would not hurt to take the nut the width of the marker past the mark on the pinion.
If it starts to get really tight (the pinion bearings) you end up having to re do the crush sleeve (yuk) at whick point I would just put spacer in it (pita), so be nice to the cruch sleeve.
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  #14  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 08:33 AM
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Dead thread revived - from the road

On the road with my 110, and the salsbury is running like a river. At a GM parts dealer and they have ac/delco 26064029 - is this a match for the national 9316? Parts counter knowledge is dead...

Thanks again,
Henry
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  #15  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 02:29 PM
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Unsure of the seal cross-reference, BUT in my experience they leak because the flange is scored/grooved and it chews up the seal. Inspect the pinion yoke after removal, and if it's scored at all use a Speedi-Sleeve before reinstalling with a new seal (for the Sals it should be the Speedi Sleeve #CR99187).
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  #16  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 06:52 PM
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Jason - thanks for the note. I did find the national seal in the next town; I have my fingers crossed they also have the sleeve. If not - hopefully the new seal will get me home...

Thanks again,
Henry
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  #17  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 07:03 PM
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A new drive yoke is not expensive.
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  #18  
Old August 3rd, 2016, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
A new drive yoke is not expensive.
Probably $80 or so for a yoke. Speedi is like $20 and will outlast the seal and probably the truck .
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Old August 8th, 2016, 02:07 PM
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Thanks

Thanks again for the speedy replies ... Rust and leather was what was found - repaired and rolling again..
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