Pie in the sky 90 to 110? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 21st, 2013, 08:19 PM
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Pie in the sky 90 to 110?

I'll start by saying yes I know it would be more cost effective to just sell the 90 and buy a good solid 110 to start as a resto platform.....but...


I'm one for a project, I'm going to want to do a lot of personal things/modifications to my build anyways so much of the truck would be changed anyways.


So. What all is interchangeable between the two trucks and what's not

My understanding is from the front doors forward is the same, and from the back of the doors rearward is different?

Are the front axles the same? Rear axle housing/internals is different correct?

I'd imagine rear drive shaft is different but front is the same?

Obviously half the body is different.

If I decide to keep my truck this may be a new project for me. starting with a ground up build on a new galvy chassis. My bulkhead is plenty good enough to re-use, I'd just get it galvanized as well.

Nothing in the immediate future but I could start designing and procuring parts for a build next winter. I'd imagine it would take me a yr or so knowing I'm going to want to do it to a tee.
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  #2  
Old February 21st, 2013, 08:27 PM
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You're starting with a non-NAS truck. Unless you really want to do it, there is no point.
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  #3  
Old February 21st, 2013, 08:44 PM
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Other than he is starting with a known quantity VS buying an unknown and still having to do work.
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  #4  
Old February 21st, 2013, 09:12 PM
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Were you thinking of a SW or 2 door? Middle doors are getting really expensive to find a nice set. You will need: "B" Pillars, rear tub, rear floor, roof, and sides. If you are doing the SW then you have to add the middle doors, seats and seat belts. All the running gear should transfer over but the rear drive shaft, chassis harness, brake lines and fuel lines. The frame will have to be extended but the rear overhangs are different between the 90 and the 110. If you do a new frame then you will also need the 110 rear springs.
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Old February 22nd, 2013, 10:30 AM
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http://www.safarihp.com/used-defende...rear-body.html

As stated, the middle doors are probably one of the most expensive parts of the conversion.
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  #6  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 10:52 AM
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I think this would only make financial sense if your intent was to convert an NAS90 to a 110 during a FULL restoration, in the interest of having a fully restored 110 with a legal NAS VIN, as opposed to trying to buy an NAS110 outright that is fully restored.

Othewise, I wouldn't even hesitate to buy a great condition ROW 110 with everything I wanted on it from a powertrain standpoint, and refresh that.
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  #7  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 11:00 AM
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Why go to the bother of it all for a 110? If you make it a 130 DC Hicap, that would be worth the hell. And stash a TDV8 in it.
If you think it will take you a year, then it will take two.
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  #8  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
I'll start by saying yes I know it would be more cost effective to just sell the 90 and buy a good solid 110 to start as a resto platform.....but...


I'm one for a project, I'm going to want to do a lot of personal things/modifications to my build anyways so much of the truck would be changed anyways.


So. What all is interchangeable between the two trucks and what's not

My understanding is from the front doors forward is the same, and from the back of the doors rearward is different?

Are the front axles the same? Rear axle housing/internals is different correct?

I'd imagine rear drive shaft is different but front is the same?

Obviously half the body is different.

If I decide to keep my truck this may be a new project for me. starting with a ground up build on a new galvy chassis. My bulkhead is plenty good enough to re-use, I'd just get it galvanized as well.

Nothing in the immediate future but I could start designing and procuring parts for a build next winter. I'd imagine it would take me a yr or so knowing I'm going to want to do it to a tee.
If you have it apart to change the configuration, do it right and enjoy the process. The parts you will need are fuel lines (though you could keep the underseat tank if you wanted) brake lines, rear wiring harness, propshaft, and suspension (trailing arms/springs/shocks). All easy to find and an opportunity to kit it out however you like.

A new galv. chassis goes a long way and you could probably sell off your 90 chassis if in good condition. Whatever your intended configuration for the body is will determine what you need. Tub, upper sides, T-posts, Middle doors, and roof. All are easy to find and expensive to ship.
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  #9  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 11:35 AM
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I'm far from a purist as my truck is evidence of, but why take another NAS 90 off the road? I'd wager buying a ROW 90 and doing the conversion may be even cheaper than the ROW 110 purchase up front to begin a true project.
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  #10  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 12:21 PM
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The Travels with Rover folks did a conversion in pretty sort order. As compared to a restoration, a 110 conversion is a lot easier and, in my view, should not be much worse than a frame swap.

You can reuse your 90 rear axle although you will need to redo the spring seats for the larger diameter 110 rear springs.

If you can find cheap rear body parts (I sold my 110 regular rear parts pretty cheap and 110 SW tubs and roof go pretty cheap, but the middle doors are silly money, the rest of the stuff should not be too expensive). The fuel tank is the same as a 1987-90 Range Rover, the exhaust you can get cat back, rear wiring harness is not too expensive, rear brake line is one line, fuel lines are speny, but I am sure you can find a way to save there.
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  #11  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 01:07 PM
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All great replies


This certainly wouldn't be a build on a budget. I pretty much would upgrade and or modify everything I could to make it as close to perfect as possible. Everything that could be galvanized would be. All bolts would be either stainless or zinc plated etc. lines would be stainless etc

I'm guessing it would take about a year, but if it took 10 years then so be it. This isn't something to rush

My main reason for considering using my truck as a donor is b/c I have a lot of parts I could re use, I know condition of all these parts and what should be replaced and what's brand new basically

Mostly though it would be less hassle trying to offload mine and buying another to start from

I wouldn't be taking a NAS90 off the road since my truck is a ROW


As for the rear axle.... Is the spring perches the only difference? That would be an easy modification I'd imagine


The body parts are really where the advantage of restoring a ROW 110 would come in I'd imagine
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  #12  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
All great replies


This certainly wouldn't be a build on a budget. I pretty much would upgrade and or modify everything I could to make it as close to perfect as possible. Everything that could be galvanized would be. All bolts would be either stainless or zinc plated etc. lines would be stainless etc

I'm guessing it would take about a year, but if it took 10 years then so be it. This isn't something to rush

My main reason for considering using my truck as a donor is b/c I have a lot of parts I could re use, I know condition of all these parts and what should be replaced and what's brand new basically

Mostly though it would be less hassle trying to offload mine and buying another to start from

I wouldn't be taking a NAS90 off the road since my truck is a ROW


As for the rear axle.... Is the spring perches the only difference? That would be an easy modification I'd imagine


The body parts are really where the advantage of restoring a ROW 110 would come in I'd imagine
The work itself is probably only 4 months of weekends. The waiting for parts, paint, and "life" can make it a full year pretty easily. The nice thing is you can drive your 90 while getting the big bits sorted out and your down time should only be 6-8months.
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Old February 22nd, 2013, 01:51 PM
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I just got done doing this exact thing and I LOVE my 110. I have a build thread showing the process just search for it should be easy to find.

It took me 5 years to do it mainly due to funds and time.

Finding the parts on a budget is the hardest part in my opinion. If you do it like factory the rear axle is not the same as a 90 as it is a Salisbury but I guess you could use a 90 axle as it will fit just not as strong. The rear springs are larger thus the spring seats are larger as well. All the other suspension parts are exactly the same as a 90 including everything for the front axle.

Basically what I did was buy a 110 donor truck for cheap. It gave me the frame, rear tub roof etc... The t-posts middle doors etc... were bought from Safari Rover. Then many other parts sourced from here etc...

I actually extended my wiring harness that was used on my 90 by soldiering wires then making a new loom and pulling it into the chassis. Made it easier to make sure everything was the same. I also made my own fuel lines, and brake lines etc... I wanted mine to be as factory as possible so lots of sourcing parts to make that happen.

It is very doable and a very fun project. Like anything it all depends on how far you want to go with it.
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  #14  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 02:07 PM
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This is one of those projects where it just makes so much sense to source a galvinized frame. that's the one thing you can't come back to later reasonably.
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  #15  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 03:28 PM
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x2. Sorry didn't really you were already ROW. If that's the case, then you have my thumbs up...
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  #16  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mybluett View Post
The work itself is probably only 4 months of weekends. The waiting for parts, paint, and "life" can make it a full year pretty easily. The nice thing is you can drive your 90 while getting the big bits sorted out and your down time should only be 6-8months.
Well - maybe not, if I end up canabalizing the 90 for many of the parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
This is one of those projects where it just makes so much sense to source a galvinized frame. that's the one thing you can't come back to later reasonably.
That is the plan, first 3k i spend will be on a new galvanized chassis. Not that mine isn't solid, but I would have to take the whole thing apart, spend countless hours cleaning it, get it galvanized, and then finally be able to start putting things on it.

By getting a new one first, I can just start swapping things over to the new chassis as I tear them off the truck (with some refurbishment inbetween). I think this will be a great help in keeping things movign quickly (even though thats not the main point here).
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  #17  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 04:56 PM
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Knowing your work and that you want things a certain way, I don't think it's a bad idea.

You have done a lot to your truck already and like you said you know the condition of all the parts especially the running gear. Like Brian/mybluett said - you could source parts over the next year while still driving the 90 and then once you have them all go at it. It seems like getting parts are much easier when you "aren't needing them yesterday"

I think the big thing would be getting the SW body and the doors. Depending on how much work you want to do. Maybe getting a new SW body from Safari Heritage could be the way to go (if they can get one) vs. restoring an old tub.

For your truck, finding a buyer for a good price you will need someone that would appreciate all the work you did (which may take a while). Then you will have to find a 110, then get a galvy chasis and a bunch of pieces anyways.

I was going to say get a galvy chassis and make a roller then pick away at it but I am sure you'll want to get your bulkhead galvinised and painted so that would take some time and you could swap axles while that is getting done.

Sounds like a cool project that I know you'll make a sweet rig either way. Bigger problem is - you're going to need a bigger garage!
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  #18  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 05:08 PM
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I say do it.. as said earlier.. gather the parts then move ahead.

Safari HP has a 110 Crew body: http://www.safarihp.com/defender/def...rear-body.html

Get a frame, doors and mate the two!
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  #19  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 06:24 PM
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Cool. I would deff make a SW. Double cabs are cool but a SW is so much more useable I think


Yes the garage thing would be a hindrance but only towards the end of the build. I could always have the truck caddy corner in it then just cut a hole in the garage to get it out lol

I think this is going to go in the planning book. I have one trip planned in the summer with my truck if it doesn't sell for the money I want, after that I think this project will begin.
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  #20  
Old February 22nd, 2013, 07:36 PM
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DC roofs are crazy money when you find one. SW tops are cheap if you want the older style, newer style is a little more expensive. Newer 110's can come with a regular axle. Salisbury axles are a little harder to source especially the disc brake ones. (of Course you can convert one over) A regular axle will fit right up to a 110 the only thing you need is the bottom bolt on perch as it is a larger diameter. You will get everything back and more if you install a new galvy chassis. (if you ever sell it)
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