Photo request: 110 middle row seatbelt mounts - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 20th, 2010, 05:47 PM
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Mike Coleman
94 D90 ST/95 D90 SW/83 110
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Photo request: 110 middle row seatbelt mounts

I'm in the process of installing inertia-reel seatbelts for the middle row of my 110. Judging by the existing mounts, it looks like my truck had static belts installed at some point, however, some of the mounts and whatnot are gone.

I think I've got everything worked out to install the reel and buckle assemblies on the door posts, but I'm having an issue with the floor mounted buckles. As you can see in the photo, the only thing I have left are two holes in the floor. Judging by the marks left in the paint, it looks like it simply had stalks mounted similar to front seat belts. I've ordered part # RTC6065 (see photos and diagram), and need to insall these. Now, I understand how to install the plates with the welded tubes. These are the parts that the seat belt assemly mounting bolt will thread into. However, what is the other larger plate for, and where does it go exactly?

I'd really appreciate if someone could post a photo of what their mounts look like, both from inside the truck, and from underneath so I can get an idea of how to install these parts.

As it is, I'm going to have a bit of an issue, as the proper tub crossmember has been replaced with some home-made crossmember, and I don't think my seatbelt mounting holes are going to line up. Might have to try and remove that and replace it with the proper crossmember so I can finally have middle row seatbelts. Nothing is ever easy with these trucks.....

Cheers,

Mike
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  #2  
Old April 29th, 2017, 09:14 PM
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scott
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Hi. Looooong time ago but did you ever complete this? I'm looking to do the same on my 110's middle row. She currently has the static belts.
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  #3  
Old May 1st, 2017, 02:34 PM
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Mike Coleman
94 D90 ST/95 D90 SW/83 110
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Whoa, blast from the past! Yep, I finally figured this out a couple weeks after I made this post. Give me some time to find the photos on my computer, and I'll update this. I had a few members contact me about this, and did a write-ups via email on how to do the install.

Stand by for a day or two while I find my photos and notes!
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  #4  
Old May 3rd, 2017, 09:58 AM
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scott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoleman762 View Post
Whoa, blast from the past! Yep, I finally figured this out a couple weeks after I made this post. Give me some time to find the photos on my computer, and I'll update this. I had a few members contact me about this, and did a write-ups via email on how to do the install. Stand by for a day or two while I find my photos and notes!
thanks!
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  #5  
Old May 12th, 2017, 12:28 PM
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Mike Coleman
94 D90 ST/95 D90 SW/83 110
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Alright, I found my notes and photos, and finally have some time to update this thread. I completed this project in 2011, and purchased my parts from a variety of US and UK sources. You’ll have to do some shopping around to find the best prices on parts. For certain parts, there was a substantial savings when buying from UK vendors.

The easiest part of the install are the lower attachment points for the inertia reel belt. The main part required is the wheelarch bracket, part number 347844. You need one bracket for each side, as well as two bolts per bracket. All the part numbers for the seatbelts are in the NAS Defender manual, which I'm going to guess you have.

These brackets are mounted under the wheelarch. The lower bolt that you'll use should already be on your truck, as it attaches a flange on the T-post to the floor. I temporarily mounted the bracket using this bolt, and then drilled pilot holes from the bottom for the upper securing bolt and the larger seatbelt bolt. Then drill your holes to the right size, install the bracket, and you're ready to attach the lower portion of the inertia belt. Ta-dah! Be aware, that depending on how neatly your seat securing latch is attached, you might have some rivets or bolts in the way. I got lucky and the brackets fit without any problems.

Also of note, you'll see that I replaced the lower floor bolt on the T-post flange with a slightly larger bolt. The original ones were a bit too small. I bought mine at the local hardware store, as the factory bolts from Rovers North seemed a bit short to me. You'll also see once you have the wheelarch bracket, that the lower mounting hole is cut for some play to adjust the mounting location a bit.

These photos should show pretty clearly how everything goes. Next lesson: how to install the upper inertia belt bracket. Major pain in the ass!
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  #6  
Old May 12th, 2017, 12:34 PM
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Mike Coleman
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OK, on to the upper inertia reel bracket!

The main parts you need here are the right and left hand brackets, part numbers MXC3282 and MXC3283 respectively. The other part you'll need is one bolt plate per side, part number MRC7626.

Installing these brackets was perhaps the worst part of this whole seatbelt installation. You see, these brackets are made for later Defender roofsides, not the 1983-84 110 roofsides which are pretty much Series parts. There are far more rivets and bolts in the early 110 roofsides, and there are not enough factory drilled holes in the brackets. Prepare yourself for lots of drilling. It was a major pain figuring out where the holes had to go, as many of them are "blind". I ended up putting a dab of paint on the tips of the rivets and bolts and then pressing the bracket on top of them. This left small paint marks on the back of the bracket where the holes would need to be. I drilled them larger than they needed to be to account for any error in my placement. One of my attached photos shows many of these added holes.

In order to install the bolt plate for the side of the bracket, you'll have to remove a bunch of bolts in order to take off the outer reenforcing strip (absent on later Defender 110's). Once removed, you'll be able to test-fit the bracket and mark where you'll have to drill the hole for the bolt plate.

The upper part of the bracket is attached with two bolts that should already be there, as they attach the roof to the roof side. So, once your holes are drilled in the bracket, you can install it with the two upper bolts, and the side bolt plate. Then re-attach the outer reenforcing strip and do up all the roof side bolts. You're done attaching the bracket!

Next, you'll have to cut some holes in your side trim. This took some measuring to figure out where the holes went, but take your time and you'll be fine. I pre-cut the trim material, and then cut holes in the fiberboard backing. Then the excess trim material was bent around the edges and glued in place. Then, install the trim. After that, all you have to do is attach the reel mechanism and the upper fulcrum.

Done!
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  #7  
Old May 12th, 2017, 12:41 PM
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Mike Coleman
94 D90 ST/95 D90 SW/83 110
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Here's the last part: installing the two lower mounts in the tub floor. This job may not be too bad for you depending on what condition your tub supports are in. For me, this was almost as much of a pain in the ass as that upper inertia reel mount! You see, the tub support that these mount to was rotten! It wasn't too difficult to replace, but very time consuming.

This part of the project is horribly documented in the parts manual. Someone finally showed me how this stuff goes together on an actual truck. You will only use half of the parts that are enclosed with parts kit # RTC6065. The parts on the left side of the diagram are used, the parts on the right aren't used at all. The two mounting plates with the tubes welded to them are mounted through the floor and the tub crossmember that is located in the middle of the wheel well. Mine was rotted out, so I had to replace it first. The one photo shows where the hole for the mounting bracket attachment screw goes. These two holes can be drilled from underneath the truck. Basically, the bracket is mounted where the tub support and floor ribs (that run from the rear door to the seats) intersect. The tube portion of the bracket will fit through the floor rib, and be held in place with a securing bolt that goes through the tub support. See photo of underside of truck for the correct location.

The bracket is also held in place with two rivets, which I attached before I added the lower securing bolt. Once riveted in place, screw in the lower bolt with it's washer, and the special locking tab. Photos also show this locking tab bent over the bolt and tub support. Then you add the seatbelt set and you're done!

As a side note, I bought all my seatbelts from LRSeries in the UK except for one. LRSeries offers OEM sets which are quite a bit cheaper than the Genuine, but they are made by the same manufacturer. The inertia reel is part number BTR5779. You obviously need two of these. Floor mount BTR5781 was availabe as OEM in the UK. The other floor mount, BTR5782, I could only find from Rovers North as a Genuine part. You'll have to do some searching around to find out who has the best prices right now.

If you buy seatbelts from the UK, make sure they use standard Royal Mail airmail, and NOT FedEx, ParcelForce, or some other "express" service. If they use an express service, your parts will go through a broker, and the shipment will be treated as a commercial entry. This triggers all kinds of paperwork, and since seat belts are automotive safety equipment, the Feds stick their noses into it. Ask me how I know. If they come over standard airmail, there's no issues, as it's treated as a personal package, not as a commercial shipment. No hassle from the Feds, and no duty either.

I hope this helps!

Mike


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  #8  
Old May 12th, 2017, 02:55 PM
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scott
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It does help! Great info thanks. Curious did you consider using the front 110 belts which have the inertia reel on the floor? Not even sure if possible to mount the reel to the floor, but on the surface it seems like less fabrication and headliner disruption.
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  #9  
Old May 18th, 2017, 11:49 AM
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Mike Coleman
94 D90 ST/95 D90 SW/83 110
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You're welcome! Glad it helps out.

Nah, I never considered any other mounting points, as I was just going by what was listed in the parts manual. It may be possible to mount the inertia reel in a different location, but I figure mounting it where Land Rover intended will make sure that it will work.
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  #10  
Old May 18th, 2017, 08:00 PM
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scott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoleman762 View Post
You're welcome! Glad it helps out. Nah, I never considered any other mounting points, as I was just going by what was listed in the parts manual. It may be possible to mount the inertia reel in a different location, but I figure mounting it where Land Rover intended will make sure that it will work.
i suppose that would be the prudent and safe approach!!
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