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  #1  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 03:37 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Patchable or replace?

I wanted to solicit opinions regarding some rust on the left front outrigger of my 110. You'll see in the middle picture the top face is rusted through as well (viewable through the hole in the rear side). If it was just the rear side, I'd think it might be patchable, but that top section has me worried. I don't think there is enough clearance between the body and the outrigger to work on that.

http://lhsw.com/gallery/rust
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  #2  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 04:07 PM
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Tony Brooks
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I think outriggers are cheap enough that it'd be foolhearty to not replace it.
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  #3  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 04:10 PM
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Charles Galpin
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True. But can they be replaced easily enough with the body on? The only picture I have seen of one appeared to need welding along the top edge too.
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  #4  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 04:24 PM
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Can you get to the top of it with the floorboard removed?
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  #5  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 04:25 PM
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Charles Galpin
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mmh, good point. Will have to check!
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  #6  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 05:18 PM
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jim pendleton
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The shipfitters desease sets in.

Good for Janey.

JP
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  #7  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 05:30 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Rofl
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  #8  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 05:33 PM
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Chris Hinkle
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My vote - Cut it off and replace. The problem will be welding on top of the frame, without doing a little dismantling - for a 90, no big deal - for a 110 pain in you know what. I would say at least the bonnet, floor, wing and inner wheel well to get a good view of the top of the frame for welding (bulkhead can probably be supported in place).
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  #9  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 06:38 PM
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That looks rustier than my 110 and I'm replacing the whole chassis!
What's the lower part of the bulkhead foot wells like? The whole bulkhead turned out to be pretty rusty when I started dismantling
I'd have thought that the cutting off was trickier than the welding back on, you can get a welding torch in a surprisingly small gap, smller than the space for an angle grinder
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  #10  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 07:30 PM
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Chris Hinkle
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Eastwood makes a straight cutoff tool for cutting brackets close to the frame - works great. So my combo of cutting tools is angle grinder, plasma cutter and straight(flat) cutoff tool. (Occasionaly the dermel tool also gets abused).
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  #11  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 09:45 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Chris, you don't paint a pretty picture. I'm trying to avoid the shipfitter scenario Pendy paints. Before you know it, I'll be doing a full rebuild.... I already have to replace the rear cross member...Oh boy.

Mike, I'll try get some pictures of the lower bulkhead and solicit opinions. She appears to be in pretty good condition, but I am well aware you only see the tip of the iceberg so to speak. It's probably an impossible goal, but I'd like to just retard/slowdown whatever rusting is occurring for now and buy some time before deciding what direction to take her.

I believe a fresh blade on a saws all will cut that off no problem - i have cut much thicker steel with a saws all. I just need to watch out for wiring - however Ron cut off the rear cross member ends, he managed to nick the wires on both sides

charles
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  #12  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 10:34 PM
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It may be money (and time) well spent to investigate how much DAP or RN gets for a new galvy chassis if the rear is shot as well.
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  #13  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 10:38 PM
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Yeah...I used the "McRipper - for all types of demolition" blade on my sawzall to cut up two old BMW's after I parted them out!

I can't find the pic anymore, but I had one of the sawzall with this mean looking 12" blade sitting next to an open case of beer on the floor of my garage with a BMW chassis/unibody in about 6 pieces in the background!

I wish I still had that pic!
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  #14  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 10:59 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Tony, afaik it's in the range of $3-4K - no small amount. But then as Mike and Jim point out it's a slippery slope. Next thing you know I'm in for a bulkhead, LHD conversion, diesel, friggin exo cage, whatever else.... I might have well bought a '93 at some point :D
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  #15  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 11:09 PM
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Well, there's lots you CAN do (LHD conversion, diesel, exo, etc.) and lots you SHOULD do. The chassis is kinda important -- spend the money once on a galvanized lump and you're done. Or, you can apologize to the wife once for the chassis and a long weekend swapping parts, or ask forgiveness for years worth of weekends welding one outrigger, then a cross member, then another cross member then another outrigger . . .
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  #16  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 11:17 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Except the reality is you can't just swap the chassis without opening up a can of worms! But I'll call you when I do swap out the chassis
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  #17  
Old October 22nd, 2007, 11:56 PM
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I wouldn't make it LHD anyway...there is something cool about the RHD cars...plus everyone looks at you like you're a nut!
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  #18  
Old October 23rd, 2007, 12:18 AM
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jim pendleton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Except the reality is you can't just swap the chassis without opening up a can of worms! But I'll call you when I do swap out the chassis

And so it begins.

Do you want me to bring in a frame for you? Shall I galvanize a new LHD bulkhead as well? How about a front Salsbury axle to go with your rear Salsbury?

Cue Dracula evil laugh" Hmaaaaa haaaaaa haaaa"

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  #19  
Old October 23rd, 2007, 02:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
How about a front Salsbury axle to go with your rear Salsbury?
What do you want a great lump like that on the front end for?

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
Shall I galvanize a new LHD bulkhead as well?
JP
Now that is the way to go
I'll have to sort myself out and take some more photos of my ground up rebuild involving just about everything that's steel getting the hot dip galvanising treatment

Seriously though, if you're looking at a rear cross member and the bulk head cross members needing replacement then take a long hard look at the rest of the chassis, I replaced the rear crossmember on my 110 about 3-4 years ago with a home fabricated "no mud traps last for ever" cross member. The rear coss member is fine but the main chassis rails rusted big time to such an extent that it would have been a body off job to repair it properly - lots of holes in the top of the chassis rails
Give your chassis a good pounding with a hammer looking for other rusty areas.
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