Parking Brake and Rear brake light - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 11th, 2012, 02:10 PM
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Parking Brake and Rear brake light

I returned this past week from an 11 month deployment aboard USS BATAAN and now I am trying to get my 97 D90 to pass the VA state safety inspection. Two issues are preventing it from passing:

1) Parking brake light on the dash board does not light up when the hand parking brake is engaged. I am not sure it ever worked, but they are hitting me on it. I took the warning light cluster out of the dash but I did not see any bulbs that I could check or replace. I also removed the rubber boot that covers the parking brake lever and there is a wire that is firmly secured to the metal terminal. Any suggestions on where to check next? I guess trace the wire back to wear the parking brake assembly is to see if there are any nicks or if it is even connected at the other end.

2) Second issue is my rear right tailight does not light up when I press the brake pedal. The normal running lights come on when I turn on the headlights, but when I press the brake pedal just the right rear taillight goes out completely. The 3rd brake light above the spare tire and the left brake lights work fine. I checked the bulb and swapped it as well as the socket with the good side (left rear taillight) but the right side brake light will still not work. Is there a way to test the plug at the end of the wiring harness? I scraped away some corrosion in the plug housing but no joy there. I am real weak on understanding electrical systems but want to give it a try before I take it to a local shop. Any thoughts on where to look next?

Thanks for the insight.
Rob
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  #2  
Old February 11th, 2012, 02:26 PM
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I would check the wiring in the back to make sure there are no chaffed wires. Checking for voltage at the socket would also be a good place to start. Also
, be sure that you have the right bulb installed, I see that issue all the time at the dealership where people installed the wrong bulb causing the light to go out when the lights are on and the brake pedal is depressed.
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Old February 11th, 2012, 03:23 PM
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2) check fuses
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Old February 12th, 2012, 04:13 PM
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I had this issue keep me from passing vehicle inspection several years ago. I apparantly had a short in the wiring. I spliced in a new wire and ran it loose along the tailgate just to get through inspection and properly replaced some time later.
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Old February 19th, 2012, 08:58 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions. The dashboard parking brake light issue was simply fixed by replacing the bulb.
As for the rear tail light, I had no voltage at the connector so I ordered a new connector from Rover's North (See the attached photo) How do these connectors work? Do I twist the two un-insulated ends of the wires together, slide the plactic connector over the splice and then apply heat to the connector to shrink it and make it water proof? Thanks.
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Old February 19th, 2012, 10:27 PM
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Old February 19th, 2012, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gas-man View Post
As for the rear tail light, I had no voltage at the connector so I ordered a new connector from Rover's North (See the attached photo) How do these connectors work? Do I twist the two un-insulated ends of the wires together, slide the plactic connector over the splice and then apply heat to the connector to shrink it and make it water proof? Thanks.
You may want to look into the thing (rear lamp socket) you plug this connector into. In that receptacle there are 3 small studs for brake, running, ground contacts. They rust apart and cause the light not to work. If the studs are rusted off & stuck in the connector you may be able to get them out & not need to replace the connector. The wires come out of the connector but unless you know how to press down the retainer on each wire they can be tough to get apart and fish out the rusted stud.

Yes, cut, splice, soldier & heat-shrink. Don't be like me and forget to put the heat-shrink on the wire before you soldier the wires together. Might want to use some di-electric grease on the studs unless you want to buy this kit from RN or elsewhere (waterproof boot kit RNK9095) and not have this problem again.
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Old February 19th, 2012, 11:55 PM
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Hi, Rob-
If you want to give me a call, we can set up a time for you to come by and I'll give you a hand.

I've gotten reasonably savvy with electrical gremlins and stuff with the three Ds I've had (normally undoing prior owner "upgrade" wiring), and all of my light issues over the years have ended up being pretty simple. Usually shorts to ground, bent terminal connections, or corrosion on contacts as mentioned above.

Coincidentally, I'm screwing around with a few electrical things wth my two trucks over the next few days. Nothing wrong, I'm just complicating items once quite simple. (Although cursed by Lucas)

If it ain't broke, I'll usually find some way to dick around with it anyway.
Murph

------ Follow up post added February 20th, 2012 12:04 AM ------

Also, with the parking brake light, both of my D90s the same indicator light that also shows when there are brake problems. The "parking brake" light on the far left of the dummey light cluster never comes on, along with a few other cluster lights in there but non-functional in NAS trucks. As delivered new, they were not even wired up (24volt, fog lamp, etc). Does that brake warning light come on for you with parking brake application?

When that indicator light doesn't come on with parking brake application or stays on when the brake is off, it just requires adjustment of the little spring plunger switch mounted on the parking brake handle bracket.
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Old February 20th, 2012, 09:14 AM
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I replaced a few on mine and it's pretty simple. I didn't solder, but instead just crimped the plastic connector onto the tag end of the wires and applied heat to shrink it. Slide the connector on one end, twist the wires, slide the connector back and center the metal ring over the wires, crimp, heat gun, done.
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Old February 20th, 2012, 11:40 AM
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Thanks to all for the advice.
Murph,
I sent you an email.
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