Parasitic drain, any ideas? - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old June 28th, 2006, 07:44 PM
btate
Status: Offline
Bryan Tate
d90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 479
Parasitic drain, any ideas?

Ok,
Just finished redoing alot on the truck. Parked it Sunday and now Wedneday its dead, this is the second time its happened since the radio was "professionally" connected. (on a brand new yellow top)
now the friggin radio shop goes under, so I can't have them check anything

Here's what wired up
Lights, radio, amp, reverse light, winch, Viper alarm
I guess its the radio.....
I have ordered the painless dual battery setup and hope that will fix the problem

Is there a way to try to "measure" the slow draw?? or any way to figure out why it draining?

Thanks
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old June 28th, 2006, 08:28 PM
mlw911
Status: Offline
Michael Walter
1995 D90 ST
Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: wilmington, nc, usa
Posts: 157
Measure the battery at 1 hour intervals to see what the drain is should have clarify what could be draining so much.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old June 28th, 2006, 09:36 PM
ECR's Avatar
ECR
Status: Offline
East Coast Rover Co.
Just Defenders, nothing else.
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rockland, ME, USA
Posts: 4,614
Disconnect the NEG side of the battery. Install a test light (make one from any small 12v lamp if you have to) between the NEG terminal on the battery and the (now loose) NEG battery cable for the car.
(don't start the car or anything with this rig in place) The brighter the light the more draw you have.
Start pulling suspect fuses (radio, clock, amp. etc). Once you find the big draw the light will dim. With the clock and such there will always be a little draw, but this will allow you to pin point if it is the radio, or the amp or whatever as you will able to see it in the "test lamp". Disconnect them independantly until you get a dim light and it will give you a direction to head.

Good backyard trick for those without a multi-meter.

Check they wired the remote turn on for the amp to the trigger wire from the head unit, otherwise your amp might be on all the time.
__________________
Email:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

I do not check PMs. Call or email if you need something.

ECR is not a parts source. We are not in the mail order business.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old June 28th, 2006, 09:39 PM
Hans's Avatar
Hans
Status: Offline
Hans Haase
The D-90.com Lab Rat
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,381
From experience, check that the amp is in fact shutting off when you power down the truck. Some less talented installers will just run a constant-hot line to the amp as well as the power-on connections, instead of running the proper switch lead from the head unit back to the amp.

-Hans
__________________
My oil line fix

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
My 100k stopped odometer fix

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Brace for impact, I'm in a "modifying mood". Massive thread count inbound.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old June 28th, 2006, 09:47 PM
ECR's Avatar
ECR
Status: Offline
East Coast Rover Co.
Just Defenders, nothing else.
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rockland, ME, USA
Posts: 4,614
A dual battery cross over won't cure your problem, it would just allow you to start the Rover without getting out the jumper cables, but you'd still be killing battery #1 all the time and it won't last if you do that. You gotta fix the problem, not cover it up.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
Some less talented installers will just -Hans
I could write a book on what I've seen from stereo and alarm guys....
__________________
Email:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

I do not check PMs. Call or email if you need something.

ECR is not a parts source. We are not in the mail order business.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old June 28th, 2006, 09:55 PM
tkavan01's Avatar
tkavan01
Status: Offline
Trevor K
94 d90 #1304
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Minden, NV
Posts: 521
Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
A dual battery cross over won't cure your problem, it would just allow you to start the Rover without getting out the jumper cables, but you'd still be killing battery #1 all the time and it won't last if you do that. You gotta fix the problem, not cover it up.

Follow-up Post:



I could write a book on what I've seen from stereo and alarm guys....
my brother has several friends who work at best buy car installation center, i would not trust these guys to add winshield wiper fluid to my car!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old June 28th, 2006, 10:06 PM
Buckon37s's Avatar
Buckon37s
Status: Offline
Buck
Re-Fendered 90
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Temecula, CA, USA
Posts: 3,376
I have the exact same thing. I never was able to figure out what is causing it. My truck was originally a communications vehicle and I had to remove about 40 pounds of wires. I gave up and just installed a battery cut off switch. good luck!!
__________________
2009 King of the Hammers

BUCK Wild Racing
Driver: Me
Co-driver: Pat Quirk
Team 911

Rover Tracks
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
PSC
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DJ Safety
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
West Coast Rovers
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reel Driveline
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old June 29th, 2006, 08:00 AM
btate
Status: Offline
Bryan Tate
d90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 479
Its good to have the ECR experts on board, I have enjoyed reading your posts on all the threads.
Yes, I did plan to address the problem not cover it, but It will be nice to have the extra battery just in case. Your test light idea was exactly what I was thinking would work

I bet its the radio also, I did check the amp previously and it seems to be turning off with the remote lead as it should. I did wire the radio so it does not turn off with the ignition. But I have made sure its off lately.

I have one more amp to install, I will have another stereo shop check everything again.
Thanks all
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old June 29th, 2006, 08:03 AM
ECR's Avatar
ECR
Status: Offline
East Coast Rover Co.
Just Defenders, nothing else.
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rockland, ME, USA
Posts: 4,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by btate
Its good to have the ECR experts on board
I'm not an expert... I've just been doing this everyday for the last 15 years. Still haven't reached "expert" status in my mind yet, each week brings some new f'd up problem I've never seen before.
__________________
Email:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

I do not check PMs. Call or email if you need something.

ECR is not a parts source. We are not in the mail order business.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old June 29th, 2006, 08:59 AM
Monkeyboy

Guest
 
Posts: n/a
The test lamp is a great start, but if it doesn't give you the results you're looking for a quick trip to Radio Shack - or most any hardware store - can get you a cheepie multimeter to actually check the current drain.

I had a mystery drain start up all of a sudden ... single bad diode in the alternator was causing a roughly one amp drain.

ECR's description of the test procedure is great, the meter will just let you measure it.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old June 29th, 2006, 09:43 AM
btate
Status: Offline
Bryan Tate
d90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 479
I guess you hook it up the same way as the test light?
Set it, then use it to bridge the connections to the battery?
Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old June 29th, 2006, 11:57 AM
Monkeyboy

Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Yup, like Mike said

- turn everything off inside the car.
- disconnect the negative terminal.
- be sure that your meter (a) is fused for "amps", and (b) is set for a range > 10 amps or so.
- connect the black lead from the meter to the negative battery terminal and the red lead to the
(now disconnected) negative battery cable.
- read the current draw from the battery on the meter...if the number is small, you can adjust the range
on the meter ... assuming its not a fancy auto ranging meter here.
- report back

KAA
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old June 29th, 2006, 12:48 PM
BarryO
Status: Offline
Barry O'Mahony
97 D-90 SW LE
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 281
If you have a harbor Freight store nearby, you can pick up this multimeter real cheap, which'll work fine for this application:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92020
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old June 29th, 2006, 01:59 PM
btate
Status: Offline
Bryan Tate
d90
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 479
Ok,
I charged the battery, but didn't have time to get out the multimeter.....but I checked the radio
the amp is off but the XM box (the alpine xm ready unit has the external tuner)
it has very hot! Radio is off, do you think that stupid little tuner has enough draw to pull down an optima in 3 days?
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old June 29th, 2006, 02:08 PM
Hans's Avatar
Hans
Status: Offline
Hans Haase
The D-90.com Lab Rat
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,381
It all depends on how much amperage it is drawing, but if it's drawing a couple amps and you're not driving enough to fully charge the battery..... it's possible.

-Hans
__________________
My oil line fix

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
My 100k stopped odometer fix

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Brace for impact, I'm in a "modifying mood". Massive thread count inbound.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
drain

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
transmission drain and fill rover4x4 Defender Technical Discussions 24 November 16th, 2011 02:31 PM
Oil pan drain bolt size?? mspell Defender Technical Discussions 1 October 2nd, 2004 12:09 PM
a/c drain Campbell Defender Technical Discussions 3 May 26th, 2004 12:00 PM
Battery Drain christsonton Defender Technical Discussions 4 April 12th, 2004 10:28 PM
CB mounting ideas flippedrover Defender Technical Discussions 21 March 29th, 2004 11:22 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:26 AM.


Copyright