Painting Rear Bumper - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 21st, 2008, 08:40 PM
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Kenny Bahr
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Painting Rear Bumper

I've por15'd my rear crossmember and I'm looking into painting my rear bumper. Has anyone painted their bumper before? I want the rear to look "Factory" I'm not sure if the rear bumper just comes painted, or powdercoated. I was thinking I could just spray paint it with Rustoleum flat black spary paint, but I'm not sure. let me know what you guys think. Also would you spray paint flat black over the shiny por15 rear crossmember in order for it to look factory?

Kenny
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  #2  
Old July 21st, 2008, 09:46 PM
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Jim Cheney
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POR15 is not UV stable, so it needs to be topcoated anyway if exposed to light. The company sells a couple primers that are designed to stick to the POR15, otherwise your top coat of paint will just flake off. My rear crossmember is painted Rustoleum Satin black, flat looks a bit naff.

I think that rear bumper is powder coated. Are you removing the original coating first, or just painting away?
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  #3  
Old July 21st, 2008, 10:23 PM
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Mark M
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Rustoleum Flat Black on my cross-member. It's great to touch up with from time to time, too. Kenny, I would think you would have the rear bumper stripped of the powder coating before trying to paint. I sense a case of ship fitter's disease coming on.... Mark
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  #4  
Old July 21st, 2008, 11:53 PM
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The best match that I have been abe to find so far is a 20% gloss black powder coat.
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  #5  
Old July 22nd, 2008, 02:01 AM
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Len Bruffett
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When My truck was 5 years old the factory paint on the rear crossmember was basically translucent --- the black pigment was gone. I removed the rear step bumber, lightly sanded the rear crossmember, then hit it with several thin coats of Rustoleum semi gloss black. The result was a thick layer of paint that has a semi shine that is easy to keep clean. It has been on there for 5 years and still looks good. Before you apply paint the last thing you should hit it with is a wipe with alcohol or metal etch - (for a final cleaning) I don't believe I have ever had paint peel or bubble off any item I prepped with metal etch. (It is a simple acid you buy from any good hardware store)

Good luck
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  #6  
Old March 8th, 2009, 04:47 AM
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Robert Lynch
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just painted my rear bumper, the paint shop recomended POR15 then painting with top coat (bumper coater semi / Honda Black) within 5 hours of POR15 application that way it is still "soft" and will adhere. i used 4 coats of Bumper Coater waiting 20 mintes between.

if not i guess i'm doing it again in a year or 2 - we will see in time. the important thing is letting it cure all together.

looks like good match to factory powder coating a bit duller though, not much however. .
Bumper Coater - Honda Black (yeah i know but the sample was the best match.

i sanded and stripped the bumper prior to the POR15 coat
if you are doing it POR15 -buy the smallest one you can - you basically use nothing
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  #7  
Old March 8th, 2009, 09:31 AM
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I POR15 the rear step bumper & crossmember at the same time and applied the Rustoleum semi-gloss paint on top of it...looks fantastic for over a year now.... of course I took the bumper and crossmember down to bare metal before painting.
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  #8  
Old March 8th, 2009, 11:50 AM
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I'm getting ready to start the same project.. I'm going to have the rear step powdercoated and want to paint the crossmember.. What are the best steps to prepping? What did you take off/mask,etc? Thanks..
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  #9  
Old March 8th, 2009, 11:54 AM
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ditto that! I am at the same place what hardware do I need/ all by bolts are rusted and I want nice new ones to go with the cleaned up cross member.
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  #10  
Old March 8th, 2009, 01:48 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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http://a2stainless.co.uk/Defender-Re...998_A467V.aspx
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  #11  
Old March 8th, 2009, 06:43 PM
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Michael Sabanovich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stmpede
Thanks for the link... I just placed my order....
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  #12  
Old March 8th, 2009, 07:39 PM
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Give yourself a whole weekend and then some. It was a very lengthy project...the hardest part was just getting all of the bolts off. I sanded the rear crossmember all the way down to bare steel, then I used a spray chemical that rids the steel of all foreign dirt,dust, etc. I then applied por-15, let it dry and then sprayed it with Rustoleum satin black spray paint. It looks awesome, especially if you are looking for a factory look. Good Luck

Kenny
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  #13  
Old March 8th, 2009, 07:46 PM
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Rockware uses Rustoleum #2177 on their bumpers. Just the right amount of satiny in my opinion.
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  #14  
Old March 8th, 2009, 10:15 PM
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Andrew thanks for the link I just placed an order as well.
Now do I really want to do por 15 or just use rustoleum
I am moving back to SO CA. over the summer ( no rust issues there)
Is POR 15 overkill or worth the time?
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  #15  
Old March 8th, 2009, 11:16 PM
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On my D2 the only thing that really lasted was when I top coated using a rubberized rocker guard. Not exactly stock look but durable.
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  #16  
Old March 8th, 2009, 11:48 PM
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No problem, that place is a great source for stainless hardware at a fair price as long as the GBP is still down. I would use the POR15. It is cheap insurance, and I have been extremely happy with it on the frame of my 110. I cleaned it up with a wire brush and roloc pads, then POR15'd it and used their Chassis Coat to top it off. It seems to have adhered and withstood the elements very well.
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  #17  
Old March 9th, 2009, 12:23 PM
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Robert Lynch
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on the time it takes - Give your self an entire weekend since you want to allow the paint to harden prior to reinstalling the step bumper and the tire carrier

1. remove tire carrier and Step bumper - Clean/ready replacement hardware (SS is used only for the Bumper to body connection (6 bolts/4 nuts) - all other bits need to G8 cadinium or G8 SS
everything else will be reused - so soak and clean throughly - This was friday night for me - about 4 hours since i went slow
2. Sand rear bumper to bare metal -mask off all lower paint areas first - 4 hours (again i'm not fast)
3. paint with POR15 - use the littelist can you can buy (the Quart is way too big) - i used a fine brush. 1 coat is enough. Allow to dry and mask off rest of rear of the truck including under the bumper (other wise you will spray it) - i used tape and plastic to mask the entire rear of the truck. Top coat within 3-5 hours of POR15 application.
4. Allow to dry for at least 24 hours to hardend the top coat. otherwise it will smear when you put the bolts in.
5. remove mask after the 24 hours - and reassemble - if you have everything prepped it will go together in about 1/4 the time as disassembly. took me about an hour.

that's it

i will be powder coating the step bumper when i get a bull bar, but for now its ok
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  #18  
Old March 9th, 2009, 12:43 PM
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The down-side of top-coating early and not using tie-coat is that POR15 cures by absorbing ambient moisture (vs paint which had a carrier that evaporates as it hardens and leaves pores) so the long-term curing of the POR15 if top-coated early will take a lot more time so you'll want to be careful around it for at least a few weeks since it will be slightly soft under the paint. Personally I would not re-fit the bumper until at least 2 weeks after top-coating.
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  #19  
Old March 9th, 2009, 10:12 PM
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I recently did my 95 D-90 SW. I used an Eastwood rust encapsulator (which comes out gloss black), then two coats of their chassis black and then three coats of SEM black trim. Came out looking great. Also, did they front bumper. Next step is the rear step bumper and fuel tank cradle.
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  #20  
Old March 10th, 2009, 06:44 AM
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I removed my rear step bumper and sanded to bare metal both step bumper & crossmember, POR15 both of them while separated then applied Rustoleum stain afterwards, waited 2 weekends later and re-assembled with all new stainless hardware....
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