Painting Galvanized parts - Defender Source
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Old August 27th, 2016, 08:07 AM
Jaded-7
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Painting Galvanized parts

Everything I've googled recommends "T-wash Mordant Solution" to use to prepare galvanized bits for primer/paint etc... But everyone of those discussions has been in England...

What do us "yanks" do to prep galvanized bits for primer/prep? Only thing i've come across is "Bullseye 123 plus" which is a latex primer. No sort of solution available locally.

My paint guy wants to "de-gas" it, which is a step in powder coating, but I feel like he is just kind of guessing, and i don't want to the paint to peel and have to get it redone...

This is for some Tub Rails.

Thanks gents.
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Old August 27th, 2016, 08:41 AM
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There is an acid dip (or a phosphate dip? Can't recall exactly) that the galvanizer can use right after galvanizing that then needs to be pained over within 18 hours that you can explore. After that the advice varies. I was told to lightly sand then immediately wash the galvanizing with soapy water, clean off and use an acid etch primer. It worked decent, but I still have some flaking. To the best of my knowledge, if it has been galvanized a bit ago, there isn't a great way. Powder coating works to encapsulate the product and can potentially stay on longer, but if it is on say a slider, once it chips it will peel.
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Old August 27th, 2016, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaded-7 View Post
and i don't want to the paint to peel and have to get it redone...
Before having the chassis replaced on my truck, I did a lot of reading here and elsewhere about painting galvanized surfaces. The general consensus was that it absolutely would peel and that it needs to be repainted from time to time.

There were a few comments here and there that called those stories hogwash, but in all the threads I dug up, I never saw an example (photos) of a painted, galvanized surface where the paint had stood the test of time. There are people, including some who regularly post here, who claim to have one system or another that works great on galvanized metal, but like I say, I haven't seen an example saying "This is what it looked like when I put the paint on, and this is what it looks like ________ months/years later."

So, for now, my frame remains shiny silver.
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Old August 27th, 2016, 08:44 AM
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You want to do a mild acid wash. You can use very light solution of hydrochloric acid in distilled water. Also phosphoric acid will work. You can use LimeAway if you want something off the shelf.
There cannot be any sort of white blush on the metal.
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Old August 27th, 2016, 09:31 AM
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Not sure what my guy is using but he says you have to do the epoxy prime withing hours of doing the chemical wash.
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Old August 27th, 2016, 10:01 AM
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There are two ways I've done. First is use phosphoric acid to etch the fresh galvy, then epoxy prime. Washing the acid off completely is key here, if you can taste the bitter acid it's not neutralized yet.
There is a bit of a heated debate ongoing between the old street rod body guys about acid etching, but I try to remember they are mostly 70 years old dudes who will put 1000 hours into a candy pearl... if you want to know the best procedure for painting your galvanized cappings, pick a paint system then contact that company and speak to their paint chemists. They will tell you what to do.

Hey just remember that LR couldn't even figure out how to keep 100% of their paint (even single stage!) stuck to the cappings and they had 30+ years to figure it out.

The other way is before powdercoat, media blast the galvanized parts. This has worked fantastically for me on NAS roll cage parts, hell, any part my power coat guy did for me, down to stuff like the battery box lid, or air cleaner. And should the powder coat crack and peel in 20 years, there is still fresh zinc underneath.



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------ Follow up post added August 27th, 2016 11:11 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Not sure what my guy is using but he says you have to do the epoxy prime withing hours of doing the chemical wash.
This is SOP for good body guys- and a good litmus test when evaluating a new shop for your work. Deep down there is nothing a good body/paint guy fears more than the damage ambient humidity can do to bare metal. These guys rarely differentiate between bare steel, aluminum or zinc though, they just know bare metal only lasts so long before you lose your window.

Suddenly I'm reminded of priming my first car in myparent's driveway... I spent two days sanding layer upon layer of Earl off the car, then 5 minutes into spraying filler primer it starts raining. ☹



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  #7  
Old August 27th, 2016, 12:01 PM
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Use PPG DX579 Metal Cleaner, followed by DX520 Metal Conditioner. These are specifically for cleaning and conditioning steel and galvanized surfaces for maximum paint adhesion and corrosion resistance.

http://www.chemfil.ca/wp-content/upl...Treatments.pdf

I used these 2 prep chemicals when I painted my galvanized side frames. Works like a charm.
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Old August 28th, 2016, 01:22 PM
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Thanks!
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  #9  
Old October 3rd, 2016, 06:08 PM
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Derek Moeller
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When I was a kid my dad had me wash galvanized stove pipe with vinegar and then paint it with stove pipe paint. It never came off.
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