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  #1  
Old February 5th, 2011, 09:32 PM
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Painting and colors

Anyone out there have any tips on how to paint these vehicles and what type of paint to paint them?

I have painted a few cars and have done well at it I know the following: mat tape, masking tape, acetone, thinner, I have a good compressor hose and paint and airbrush kit so I can handle it. Oh and body ding knock out, no bondo (maco) good 70 degrees in shop and car at that temp to make the temp somewhat stick and then the curing baking portion.
Welcomed advice tips and suggestions I like OD GREEN Battle tan and light brown.
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  #2  
Old February 5th, 2011, 10:23 PM
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What's your avatar?
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #3  
Old February 6th, 2011, 12:31 AM
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Its a Mountain lion footprint. I found her in a old copper minning shaft in the tombstone az mountain range. She had a cub with her.
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  #4  
Old February 6th, 2011, 01:00 AM
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I've been trying to figure that out for the longest time. thanks
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  #5  
Old February 6th, 2011, 01:02 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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If you want a good resale value and a paint job that lasts, do it right. That means a complete disassembly where each part is stripped and painted individually. Don't paint over paint. Mine has paint over paint and it is peeling everywhere. There are some tricks to paining rovers which those more knowledgable than me can tell you. Last I would encourage you to pick a color from the land rover palette. Again for resale value and consistency.
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  #6  
Old February 6th, 2011, 01:28 PM
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I'm going to have to disagree with stripping vs. paint over paint. If the original paint is sound and you prep correctly, there is no issue whatsover with painting over, it works exceptionally well in fact. I believe your issues are just a bad paintjob, not an indictment of painting over and older finish. Someone probably just used an incompatible paint system and failed to prep correctly.
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  #7  
Old February 6th, 2011, 02:40 PM
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I agree with you can paint over paint but I still think a full disassembly gets you a better paint job. Land Rover does such crappy paint work on defenders. If I had the funds, taking it all apart and doing it separate and then reassembling is the only way I would go. If you look at how ECR puts trucks together, the rivets aren't painted as they are put in after assembly. It is the only way to have a quality job that will last.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #8  
Old February 6th, 2011, 02:47 PM
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Agreed on disassembly, though painting the tub in place was not hard. Everything else on mine was apart and hung for spraying. For an example of what not to do just look at 95% of UK resprays.
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  #9  
Old February 6th, 2011, 03:25 PM
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I don't know who painted mine or how, all I know is that it is peeling because someone was too cheap to do it properly.

Kevin, are you saying that paint will adhere to clear coat just as well as it adheres primer? I find that hard to believe. Even so, I'm not taking any chances this time. Another benefit of primer is that you sand out blemishes.

Side note. It's probably my crappy paint job, but, do you ever have issues with branches marking the sides of your panels? I have scratch marks all along the sides and on top of the plastic wheel arch from branches and twigs scraping the sides. Is it just an old and tired clear coat? Will this happen if I get a proper paint job?

Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY
I'm going to have to disagree with stripping vs. paint over paint. If the original paint is sound and you prep correctly, there is no issue whatsover with painting over, it works exceptionally well in fact. I believe your issues are just a bad paintjob, not an indictment of painting over and older finish. Someone probably just used an incompatible paint system and failed to prep correctly.
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  #10  
Old February 6th, 2011, 03:32 PM
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Well, the military ones were often painted with a brush and nobody cared if they painted over paint. I guess it depends. If it's an honest to god trail rig then paint is of no concern since it's gonna get fouled up pretty darn quick. If it's a truck you want people to ooh and ahh over, then you'll have to spend the time and money to do it the right way. I think the best approach is to do the prep work yourself and then have a shop shoot the paint in a booth with dust control and all that.
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  #11  
Old February 6th, 2011, 03:38 PM
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Well NAS 90s have no clear coat (not including black) so if you are going to do it right you don't have to worry about that. I think if I was building a trail truck I would look into a powdercoated finish like Icon uses. Not sure how it is done but a flat powdercoat probably would look awesome in green or blue. I bet it would hold up well too.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #12  
Old February 6th, 2011, 03:45 PM
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It has definitely been repainted. It was originally arles blue. They repainted it to a non-land rover green. I actually like the color a lot (its a brownish green) but its peeling and you can see the arles blue underneath. They also didn't bother taking it apart which was a big mistake. overspray everywhere.

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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
What color is your truck? Most NAS trucks are single stage paint, so if you have clear, its been repainted.

-Jeff
------ Follow up post added February 6th, 2011 04:03 PM ------

I'm going with both options. I'm going to get a good paint job that lasts and I am not going to pull any punches on the trail. I'm just annoyed with things being done half-assed. Military paint jobs are cool if you don't care about the looks. Since mine is a NAS defender I think a proper paint job is the right thing to do for this particular vehicle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Well, the military ones were often painted with a brush and nobody cared if they painted over paint. I guess it depends. If it's an honest to god trail rig then paint is of no concern since it's gonna get fouled up pretty darn quick. If it's a truck you want people to ooh and ahh over, then you'll have to spend the time and money to do it the right way. I think the best approach is to do the prep work yourself and then have a shop shoot the paint in a booth with dust control and all that.
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  #13  
Old February 6th, 2011, 07:59 PM
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If yours is peeling that bad then you should sand every last bit of the new color off since it is not adhering. The old paint underneath is adhering just fine and is a suitable base for you. In your case I would use a primer/sealer coat and then shoot it with single stage paint. Brush striping is pretty much unavoidable but can be tremendously minimized with several coats of good wax before taking to the trail.

As for painting over a clear coat, I was told by the paint shop that it absolutely works. Just wet sand the clear coat to a even matte finish first as long as the clear coat is still sound.
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  #14  
Old February 6th, 2011, 10:22 PM
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I wanted to know more about paint in paticular. I have restored a few cars and well.... just wondering if a paticular was best for this. I am not narcistic, the vehicle its just for trail, hunting, and camping. The color I want is a good base natural color and then I will pattern it. Powder coating is awesome, but I would only use it on axles and things like that. If I dissasemble my rig then I would be wasting time for its not for a resale or value. I know you can basic strip and tape and run some heavy wet sand to remove the old color for the most part. I am probably going to use a rustolem flat. I dont care if I hand paint it with a brush so long as it sticks.
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  #15  
Old February 7th, 2011, 07:04 AM
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A good sand, a good quality self etching primer, and quality paint will give you the result you want. I have never had the professional Rustolum peal. In my rebuild and dress ups I was able to get quality one and two stage paints put into a spray can at the Auto Paint shop. They thought I was crazy but if you are good with a rattle can you can make it look pretty good. It will not be show quality but looks great for a trail truck.
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  #16  
Old February 7th, 2011, 07:06 AM
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I would love to get my truck painted Tangiers orange (like the G4) or Atlantic green (like the 50th anniversary models I think).
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  #17  
Old February 7th, 2011, 08:25 AM
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I've used both acrylic enamel and urethane on Rovers and like them both. The enamel is easy to touch up and buff out sctatches but will fade after time. I was very impressed with the urethane I used on my Series 11a. A bit of a pain to mix right but boy it went on nice. I don't think you could get it to run if you tried. Just as folks have said, 90% of a paint job is in the prep.
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  #18  
Old February 8th, 2011, 09:23 PM
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MC2298 I totaly agree with you on rattle cans I have painted over dirt many times in fact I am proffessionally qaulified in this field I think I am totally doing the rattle can thing I love spray paint Big cheers to spray paint fans
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