Paint the Chassis? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 19th, 2006, 01:14 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Paint the Chassis?

I've just invested in a new chassis, very galvanised, very shiney.
Should I paint it black? It would look more standard.
How do you go about painting over fresh zinc?
Does it need etch primer or what?
The chassis is still bare at the moment
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  #2  
Old August 19th, 2006, 01:45 PM
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Jim Cheney
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I have some nice photos of why you should not paint it. I tried to prepare mine very carefully with an etching prep to take the paint, but naturally it wasnt perfect. The only place I really got it right was the rear crossmember because I took extra care there. Its flaking off in all sorts of places under the chassis. Doesnt look bad from outside because the chassis is so dirty now, but it irritates me. If I was doing it again, I would do the rear crossmember again but nothing else.
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  #3  
Old August 19th, 2006, 02:39 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Is it really bad?
Does the paint not stick atall?
The chassis has a sort of greasy feel to it at the moment....
The main reason I had for painting it was that a previous truck I had with a galvanised chassis became stained with mud/clay. The galvanising went a nasty orange/brown colour
I'm getting conflicting advice some say paint and others not.
Photos might swing the decision one way or the other.
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Old August 21st, 2006, 12:02 AM
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Chris Robinson
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Would PPG epoxy primer work? They state it in there book to work but I don't know of anyone that has used it.
Chris
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Old August 21st, 2006, 12:15 AM
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Chris Snell
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I wish I had a galvanized chassis. If I had one, I would leave it natural. I think they look sweet. When I see a Rover with a galvanized rear cross member, it really stands out and shows that it has had some love from its owner.
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  #6  
Old August 21st, 2006, 04:22 AM
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Ian McCormack
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Batch dip galv can be very variable and some difficult to paint. Rub the whole chassis with wire wool then degrease it with paint thinners. Then use an etching solution known in the UK as T wash ( 8% Phosphoric acid, 1% copper carbonate , 32% Alcohol, Remainder water). It is best applied with a stiff sponge pad so you can work it into the surface, if it doesn't turn black you may need to re-apply it. Then give the chassis a wash with water and allow to dry.

For the paint stay away from oil based paints, they react with the galve and detach over time. Go for an acrylic or epoxy or polyurethane
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Old August 21st, 2006, 05:22 AM
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Mike Hammond
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Thanks for the tip Ian. Scrubbing the whole chassis sounds time consuming... maybe I'll just do the rear crossmember and front dumb irons.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by terrapin
I wish I had a galvanized chassis. If I had one, I would leave it natural. I think they look sweet. When I see a Rover with a galvanized rear cross member, it really stands out and shows that it has had some love from its owner.
And I wish I had an AAyellow defender.......
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Old August 21st, 2006, 05:54 AM
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Ian McCormack
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It certainly is, took me a day just to clean and etch a bare brand new chassis. But its necessary if you want to get paint to stick properly
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  #9  
Old August 21st, 2006, 09:49 AM
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You can buy black waxyoil and that "may" stick, but nothing sticks to galvy for long. Just leave it the way it is. If you are worries about corrosion, just treat the inside with waxyoil. If you are worried about mud sticking spray it down with tireshine (no I am not kidding, silicone "shine" spray is what workds, PAM or similar works too but not as well) before you go out in the mud and hose off afterwards.
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Old August 21st, 2006, 07:04 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Now that is an interesting idea. As I said my main worry was clay staining the galv...
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